i cant seem to remove this bolt any * help*
#1
i cant seem to remove this bolt any * help*
i went to replace my tie rod ends , lower ball joint s, lower shock bushings
upper shock bushing and shocks
i want to start with the shock since they are CRAP aftermarket replacement..i mean i got BOTH for $45 BRAND NEW SENSEN
i will try to get my OEM ones rebuilt if i can for a decent price.
but my shocks are toast and so are the upper bushings
they can move if i grab the thread and wiggle pretty bad. kinda scary
any ways the top bolt is 17mm.
i have a cool bent 17mm wrench but i cant for the life of me get the thread to stay still while i turn. i try to hold with several items ..
nothing could hold it while i was turning i do not want to damage the threads and get screwed over.
do i need an impact tool? or electric power tool good enough
i do not have air tools or access to any... i can buy a ele power tool but how many FT lbs u think i would need to zap that bugger off there
upper shock bushing and shocks
i want to start with the shock since they are CRAP aftermarket replacement..i mean i got BOTH for $45 BRAND NEW SENSEN
i will try to get my OEM ones rebuilt if i can for a decent price.
but my shocks are toast and so are the upper bushings
they can move if i grab the thread and wiggle pretty bad. kinda scary
any ways the top bolt is 17mm.
i have a cool bent 17mm wrench but i cant for the life of me get the thread to stay still while i turn. i try to hold with several items ..
nothing could hold it while i was turning i do not want to damage the threads and get screwed over.
do i need an impact tool? or electric power tool good enough
i do not have air tools or access to any... i can buy a ele power tool but how many FT lbs u think i would need to zap that bugger off there
#2
#3
ill give it one more shot maybe some good electric tape around the vice grips will prevent thread damage. even tho on top of thread looks like there is a spot the vice can fit
#4
#5
#6
Well yes you could, but often you just need to remove them to change the bushings. Also you still need to use something to hold the shock while you tighten the nut when you install/re-install the shocks.
#7
In lesser cars, by the time the bushes were worn, the shocks were shot. Normally, I used a small, 3/8" (I think) open-end wrench or vise-grips to hold the new bolt from spinning while I tightened the new shock in place.
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#8
OK so I do not think these shocks work for the jag
Ill post pics with exactly what I'm talking about.
My front right shock. Moves when I giggle the bolt from the enigne bay... its always done that but I do not think TS safe.
The new shock I got is even worse. Maybe I'm installing wrong but I doubt it
Ill post pics with exactly what I'm talking about.
My front right shock. Moves when I giggle the bolt from the enigne bay... its always done that but I do not think TS safe.
The new shock I got is even worse. Maybe I'm installing wrong but I doubt it
#10
There should be 2 bushings and 2 of those dished washers on each shock - one of each above the bodywork and one of each below - it looks like you've not got all of the bits!
See the diagram here for what you should have: Road Spring and Damper-Front - Parts For XJ Series from (V)720125 to (V)812255 (X300) | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
See the diagram here for what you should have: Road Spring and Damper-Front - Parts For XJ Series from (V)720125 to (V)812255 (X300) | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
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