I am having locking problem with my X300 XJ6. I googled and there seems to be many people facing the same problem but there rarely anyone updating the solution.
What happened to mine was that I realised my remote fob isnt working. First I thought was the battery, so changed the batteries, but didnt solve the problem.
Then I suspect the need to reprogram the fob using the valet button. When I pressed the trunk release button, it didnt work, so is the door lock button, putting gear to drive also did not auto lock the doors. I thought was the valet button accidentally pressed, but I use the key to unlock the trunk also did not deactivate valet mode if it is activated. I tried using key to lock and unlock the door twice method mentioned in forum did not solve the problem as well.
Next, I realised that using the key to lock the car, will never lock the other doors.
Then I checked on all passenger doors, the front passenger and rear left door can be lock and unlock by manually pressing the door lock pin, and unlocking by pulling the door handle. Only for the rear right passenger door behaving oddly, the door pin will never go down when I pressed it down, it jumps back up and the door will not lock (video attached)
I hope anyone can tell me the possible reasons for the problem I am encountering. I really hope the SCLM is not dead...
This is for a North American model so checking for Singapore differences
Note that some of the relays are double stacked like the door lock and door unlock relays
Pull the # 4 / 10 amp fuse in the trunk fuse box for a long period of time ( 5 minutes ) , this fuse is hot at all times direct connection to the battery
The # 1 fuse is closest and on the same row as the fuse box battery cable terminal post
This will probably do a soft reset of the SLCU where all the logic steps are reset to zero state
This is for a North American model so checking for Singapore differences
Note that some of the relays are double stacked like the door lock and door unlock relays
Pull the # 4 / 10 amp fuse in the trunk fuse box for a long period of time ( 5 minutes ) , this fuse is hot at all times direct connection to the battery
The # 1 fuse is closest and on the same row as the fuse box battery cable terminal post
This will probably do a soft reset of the SLCU where all the logic steps are reset to zero state
Yes the print is different for rest of world cars
Thank you. Still couldnt trace what the problem is.
Huat as you can see from the diagrams the locking system is pretty complicated! From the video I can see that your locking pins are flush with the door panel when pressed in. USA models are longer which allows pulling up on the pins. Sometimes they can't be pulled up either. Here are probably the three most common failures in the alarm/locking/fob system:
The door lock peg will spring back up if the mechanism that locks the door is too tight (dirty) and/or stuck. The spring you press against is supposed to flip the mechanism to the locked position, but the mechanism won't move far enough to do so. The only real way to correct this is to remove the door latch and clean and lube the lock mechanism pivot points. It is necessary because one stuck lock causes confusion for the locking system and it will tend to leave all the doors unlocked. Most of the time the internal parts are not broken, but only stuck.
To program your fob, the trunk operation must be correct. Strange, but true. Step one is to open the trunk. If the trunk latch switch isn't working correctly the fob can't be programmed. Do the trunk lights come on when you open the trunk? That would be good, but you also need to have them shut off when you close the trunk. You will know because when closed the dash release button will work, and you will NOT have a trunk open indicator on the dash (with key on). You can hack this problem by manually connecting the wires of the trunk latch switch together (simulating a trunk open situation for fob programming).
And most importantly, the right side trunk hinge wires often get chafed or broken, causing all sorts of problems back there. So make sure those wires look ok. Remove a zip tie if need be and free them up to move along with the hinge. Repairs are often needed to those wires.
I’m very excited right now as there is progress to solving the problem. I hope I can update till the day my problem is solved and not leave it open ended like many other threads.
I removed the driver side door panel and found out the actuator motor seems to be stucked. So I removed it and will wait for one from the breaker to arrive tomorrow. I drove home feeling pretty down feeling tired from all the trouble-shooting.
Just now when I went back to my car after coffee, unlocked with the key, sound of my car unlocking all doors is heard! Went to my trunk and pressed the button and the trunk boot is released! Woohoo...
I guess after removing the faulty driver door actuator made the computer self-recover.
Excited to install the used actuator from the breaker tomorrow, hopefully it is a working one.
Try cheap first. Open the fuse box behind the kick panel in under the right rear seat. Look for the central locking fuse. Mine was burned out. It is probably in position 1 or 2 for your model.
