Lop sided
As I am getting to the end of my general repairs and before tackling the paint issues, there is one thing that is still bugging me and has done since I bought the car. It always seems to be lop sided at the rear. Despite being in a Left Hand Drive country, the car is actually Right Hand Drive. So the left side - passenger side - looks fine with the rear wheel having a slight gap above it in the arch but the right side - drivers side - the tyre is visibly up in the wheel arch. Looking from the rear this is also clear with the rear slightly tilted to the right. The shocks are brand new so is this a spring issue? It does have a lot of tools in the boot permanently which are very slightly off-centre in terms of weight (to the low side) but it was like this when I bought it.
New springs?
Thanks
Sam.
New springs?
Thanks
Sam.
As well as the spring, there is a foam "isolator" which affects ride height, and is relatively inexpensive to replace. As you need to remove the spring to fit it, you may want to think about fitting new springs, if you can find them. Jaguar classic only list replacements for the XJR ( for a mere £1281!!), but you can probably pick up some after market ones.
Definitely replace the isolators though
Definitely replace the isolators though
Thank you for your reply.
I usually use a company called Autodoc for the vast majority of parts I buy (www.autodoc.es - I think you have a UK version of same supplier there). They have springs for about 50 euro each. However they only sell springs or shocks not any other bits so far as I can see.
When I changed the shocks previously there were two "foam" type elements - a large one and small one - that fit within the shock assembly itself. i.e. below the top bolt on the shock. So the part you refer to is additional to that? Would you happen to have a part number for the "isolator" referred to? Any kind of exploded view diagram of where this goes would be greatly appreciated. Not looking forward to taking shock/spring assembly out again but c'est la vie!!
Many thanks again
Sam.
I usually use a company called Autodoc for the vast majority of parts I buy (www.autodoc.es - I think you have a UK version of same supplier there). They have springs for about 50 euro each. However they only sell springs or shocks not any other bits so far as I can see.
When I changed the shocks previously there were two "foam" type elements - a large one and small one - that fit within the shock assembly itself. i.e. below the top bolt on the shock. So the part you refer to is additional to that? Would you happen to have a part number for the "isolator" referred to? Any kind of exploded view diagram of where this goes would be greatly appreciated. Not looking forward to taking shock/spring assembly out again but c'est la vie!!
Many thanks again
Sam.
G’day Sam,
Have a look at the link below and you’ll find all the part numbers and exploded diagrams you need to find the parts you need for your Jag.
Cheers,
Jeff.
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com
Have a look at the link below and you’ll find all the part numbers and exploded diagrams you need to find the parts you need for your Jag.
Cheers,
Jeff.
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com
G’day Sam,
If you’re confident to do this work on your car then this is how to do it.
Tech
I’ve recently replaced both the foam bushes in my car as my car was dropping cake crumbs wherever it was parked. A sure sign that the foam bushes were crumbling.
Cheers,
Jeff.
P.S. I just reviewed the procedure in the link and I found I didn’t need to remove the brake callipers when I replaced my isolators.
P.P.S. Where abouts in Spain are you, my wife and I are planning a holiday there mid next year.
P.P.P.S. I just read in one of your posts that you’ve already changed your shocks, so you can probably disregard most of this post. Ha!
If you’re confident to do this work on your car then this is how to do it.
Tech
I’ve recently replaced both the foam bushes in my car as my car was dropping cake crumbs wherever it was parked. A sure sign that the foam bushes were crumbling.
Cheers,
Jeff.
P.S. I just reviewed the procedure in the link and I found I didn’t need to remove the brake callipers when I replaced my isolators.
P.P.S. Where abouts in Spain are you, my wife and I are planning a holiday there mid next year.
P.P.P.S. I just read in one of your posts that you’ve already changed your shocks, so you can probably disregard most of this post. Ha!
Last edited by watto700; Oct 6, 2019 at 03:53 AM.
Hi Jeff
Thanks. Even though I did the job before I didn't have a guide so I pretty much had to figure it out so I am going to check your guide out and I am sure there will be some things I could do easier. It was a pig of a job to be honest so I'm not looking forward to it - just wish I'd researched the lop-sided issue and done everything in one hit. Oh well, you live and learn!
I've now ordered the isolators and springs - all in about 170 euros.
I am in the south of Andalucia, very close to Gibraltar (I actually work in Gibraltar every day). Its a great place to come on holiday - you have the Costa del Sol which is great for nightlife, golf, beaches, then heading the other way from way I am you have the Costa de la Luz with beautiful undeveloped natural land and beaches. In the middle of course Gibraltar and just 30 mins away you can be in North Africa on a fast ferry. You'd be most welcome!
I'll do a write-up once the parts arrive (hopefully they will take a few weeks!!)
All the best
Sam.
Thanks. Even though I did the job before I didn't have a guide so I pretty much had to figure it out so I am going to check your guide out and I am sure there will be some things I could do easier. It was a pig of a job to be honest so I'm not looking forward to it - just wish I'd researched the lop-sided issue and done everything in one hit. Oh well, you live and learn!
I've now ordered the isolators and springs - all in about 170 euros.
I am in the south of Andalucia, very close to Gibraltar (I actually work in Gibraltar every day). Its a great place to come on holiday - you have the Costa del Sol which is great for nightlife, golf, beaches, then heading the other way from way I am you have the Costa de la Luz with beautiful undeveloped natural land and beaches. In the middle of course Gibraltar and just 30 mins away you can be in North Africa on a fast ferry. You'd be most welcome!
I'll do a write-up once the parts arrive (hopefully they will take a few weeks!!)
All the best
Sam.
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Ok so parts actually arrived a month ago but I've been putting this job off knowing what a PITA the job was the first time around when I only changed the shocks and associated rubber bits. I am still kicking myself a bit for not at least changing the foam isolaters at the top of the springs as it would have taken minutes added to the original job but oh well, I didn't so my bad.
The car was basically sitting lopsided and on fast runs hitting undulations in the road it felt as though it was bottoming out on one side at least. So today I tackled the dropped side and next weekend I will do the opposite side. It is straight forward enough job but you need two people to use the method I used. Briefly:
1) Jack car up, axle stand in place, remove wheel, caliper/pads, caliper carrier and disc. Also preferable to remove ABS sensor as wire gets in the way but in my case it was stuck in there so I left it where it was rather than break it
2) Get a spring compressor on to take the downward pressure off the suspension arm as much as possible.
3) Remove shock bottom bolt and knock the bolt through. Get a jack under the shock and use a piece of pipe between jack and shock to push it up through the spring. Once sufficient up into the spring push the bolt through to lock it in place and out of the way
4) Remove 4 bolts on the top mount and then pull the assembly out of the car by first using a crowbar at the bottom to lever the spring over the seat. I little messing about it and it will come out
5) Slide old spring over shock. With the top mount will be the old isolator and plastic ring that sits between it and the spring. Chuck old isolator and spring in bin. Compress new spring on two sides but check orientation of everything to ensure you can get these off later in situ.
6) Take top mount with shock attached and manouvre into position and get one of the top mount bolts started to keep it in place. Pull bottom of shock out and slide over new isolator and plastic ring. This is where you need two people. One holds the top mount and spring up to top it dropping down. Get a crow bar under the spring and shock and lever it into position. Don't worry if its rotated wrongly at this point just get it in place with the shock then dropping down through the hole
7) Pry up on the spring with the crow bar against top of hub and then turn the spring seat rubber so its in position whilst rotating slightly the spring to ensure everything is seated. Remove spring compressors
8) Jack up bottom arms until you see the bolt hole align with the hole on end of shock. Refit bolt, disc, caliper retainer, caliper/pads and wheel
9) Have a beer
The car now sits perfect even with the other side yet to be done. In my case I think it was combination of worn out isolator and worn spring. New spring was just slightly longer but had more coils so I imagine slightly stiffer. I'll post a few photos of new spring fitted and old isolator
One down, one to go!!
The car was basically sitting lopsided and on fast runs hitting undulations in the road it felt as though it was bottoming out on one side at least. So today I tackled the dropped side and next weekend I will do the opposite side. It is straight forward enough job but you need two people to use the method I used. Briefly:
1) Jack car up, axle stand in place, remove wheel, caliper/pads, caliper carrier and disc. Also preferable to remove ABS sensor as wire gets in the way but in my case it was stuck in there so I left it where it was rather than break it
2) Get a spring compressor on to take the downward pressure off the suspension arm as much as possible.
3) Remove shock bottom bolt and knock the bolt through. Get a jack under the shock and use a piece of pipe between jack and shock to push it up through the spring. Once sufficient up into the spring push the bolt through to lock it in place and out of the way
4) Remove 4 bolts on the top mount and then pull the assembly out of the car by first using a crowbar at the bottom to lever the spring over the seat. I little messing about it and it will come out
5) Slide old spring over shock. With the top mount will be the old isolator and plastic ring that sits between it and the spring. Chuck old isolator and spring in bin. Compress new spring on two sides but check orientation of everything to ensure you can get these off later in situ.
6) Take top mount with shock attached and manouvre into position and get one of the top mount bolts started to keep it in place. Pull bottom of shock out and slide over new isolator and plastic ring. This is where you need two people. One holds the top mount and spring up to top it dropping down. Get a crow bar under the spring and shock and lever it into position. Don't worry if its rotated wrongly at this point just get it in place with the shock then dropping down through the hole
7) Pry up on the spring with the crow bar against top of hub and then turn the spring seat rubber so its in position whilst rotating slightly the spring to ensure everything is seated. Remove spring compressors
8) Jack up bottom arms until you see the bolt hole align with the hole on end of shock. Refit bolt, disc, caliper retainer, caliper/pads and wheel
9) Have a beer
The car now sits perfect even with the other side yet to be done. In my case I think it was combination of worn out isolator and worn spring. New spring was just slightly longer but had more coils so I imagine slightly stiffer. I'll post a few photos of new spring fitted and old isolator
One down, one to go!!
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