XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

Lower radiator hose removal

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Old 12-17-2013, 08:50 PM
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Default Lower radiator hose removal

New here looking for a few tips on removing the straight lower radiator hose on an xjr. I've removed the supercharger bolts and have it loose but it doesn't want to come out yet. Do I need to disconnect the silver plate on top that says xjr6 supercharged? Or possibly the intake manifold? Thanks again.
 
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:21 PM
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Working from underneath you need to disconnect the flex hose aft of the throttle body, then you can remove the three 7mm bolts holding the aft piece of the intercooler together.

After that you need to remove the oil filter and disconnect the TPS and the idle speed motor connections, two cooling lines that go to the throttle body. Next there is a hose that goes to the firewall, (label this one, heck label them all)

After this disconnect the throttle line and the vacuum line to the cruise servo. Now the entire supercharger and throttle body come out and then you can get to this stupid hose. Replace the coolant bypass when you're in there.
 
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:58 PM
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Yes that is correct and it is a hell of a job, more so when you have to put it all together. I usually take off all of the plumbing leadiing out of the sc that goes into the intake/cooler. Also if you jack the car up a little it gives you a bit more room to pull the whole assembly out, and if you take of the sc bypass valve before you pull it out it makes it a whole lot easier because gives you the needed clearance. I also take off the oil pressure switch because I usually end up breaking it while I pull the sc assembly out or putting the sc assembly back in. I have done this job lots of times, had sc ported and upgraded rotors and rotor plate by magnum powers, and this will take you at least two hours to remove and the same to replace.
 
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:20 AM
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Do I need to take anything off up top? I can't see any other bolts down below. I've taken all the sc bolts out so it's loose, the oil filter off, the dipstick is out, and I'm having a hell of a time taking the flex hose off. What do you mean by "aft" also?
 
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:56 AM
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dont forget coolant hoses to throttle body, tps connection, idle control valve connection, air intake hose the throttle body, throttle cable to throttle body, all three rubber air hoses on the side of throttle body adapter and the flex hose that goes to the bottom of the throttle body adapter (96-97). just follow the flex hose to the back of the engine and you will find the attachment, again only if you have a egr valve (95-97). After this you have become one with your Jag, HA Ha.
 
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:31 PM
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Take this for what it's worth, but I removed the intake manifold bolts and swung the manifold out of the way to gain better access. I also remember that I cut "spidy hose" where it runs under the supercharger bracket to get it out. It was so old and tough it didn't want to come out.
 
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:32 PM
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Thats a lot of work, while your are there maybe you should change the hose on the water rail so you dont have to go back in anytime soon.
 
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:04 PM
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Hi everyone. I just joined up to share some info that others attempting this joyous task may find helpful.

Basically, you don't have to remove the supercharger at all to get this done. I did remove the housing/tube assemble between the supercharger and intercooler, which means i also removed the airbox and intake MAF sensor assembly. This allowed enough access to the parts of the hose that go to the expansion tank, and the two locations in front of that.

Because i am doing this at work, i was able to get the car up in the air and access underneath. I removed the sway bar, which allowed me to remove the alternator. This opened up all kinds of room to get at the hose from underneath and remove it after undoing the remaining hose clamps. Two of which (water pump and T/Stat housing (i think)) are loosened from above. I was basically able to remove the hose contraption from underneath.

Installation of the new hose assembly did require a second pair of hands to guide the hose up on the W/P and T/stat housing. Applying a thin coat of white grease to the inside of the hoses allowed them to basically slide right on. The second pair of hands was also helpful when it came to tightening up the new clamps.

Here's a couple of pics. I can post more later if desired.





 
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The following 2 users liked this post by LJsearles:
aholbro1 (06-24-2014), shaune (11-20-2014)
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