I was wondering if anyone had knowledge about control arms, short knuckles, and camber plates. I've only had my Jaguar XJ6 for about 5 months and I'm trying to achieve between -5 to -10 camber all the way around so I can tuck bigger wheels and tires. My question is has anyone used modified control arms ( either bought or custom built )? How much camber was achieved ? I'm thinking about camber plated but I have heard the difference is only about 2 degrees. My Jag is currently on bags. I understand what I'm trying to achieve with my Jaguar may not be for everyone, so please no hateful comments. I am genuinely being humble and trying to learn from the pros before I make a mistake. I'm trying to get my Jaguar to only have negative camber when aired out and balance out when aired up so I don't wear the tires as fast. ( aired out only for car shows )

 

Swallows Racing in UK have developed front top wishbone ball joints for their racing X300s that enable front camber changes. Looking at the ride height of your car in the photo, I think it is even lower than the race cars, on which you can see vertically about 1" of tyre wall between the rim and the wheel arch. However, these modified ball joints might be your best option. Alternatively, you could make your own "adaptor blocks" between the ball joint and the top wishbone to reduce the effective length of the top wishbone. It's probably the lowest cost / risk solution.

There are plates mounted between the differential output flanges and the rear driveshafts. These plates are available in various thickness in order to change rear camber. Given the large change in ride height, you might need to take these plates out altogether. If that doesn't provide enough change in camber, you would need to remove the driveshaft and skim the flanges. If that still doesn't provide enough change, then you would have to do the same to the differential output flanges.

I'm not familiar with the terms "aired out " and "aired up". Does this mean changing the air pressure in the tyres. I can't visualise how this changes the camber angles, if the same pressures are used in both tyres on the same axle. Won't it only change the ride height?

 

Andy,
Aired out is when the air suspension system is at it's lowest position (air bags deflated), aired up can be at either maximum height or driving height. VIP's intention is to achieve camber that is suitable while at driving height, and let it go negative all around when aired out.

VIP,
Andy nailed it with his suggestions, likely the camber shims in the rear will need to come out altogether. Up front you're either looking at the Swallows Racing kits, designing something similar to it, or a purpose built fabricated tubular control arm (or even one with built in adjustment like SC&C control arms).

 

Whilst removing the spacer plates between the driveshafts and the Diff output shaft will add negative camber, we are talking a matter of a few millimetres. Visually, the difference will be very subtle, and nothing like the car in the photo. Bearing in mind that the X300 rear suspension design sees the driveshaft serving as the top link of the suspension as well as transmitting drive, it is not hard to imagine that things will start to get ugly pretty quickly as the car in the photo accelerates, unless of course the whole rear suspension has been dramatically altered.

With that in mind, if the car in the picture is indeed using airbags rather than springs, then the "slammed" look might only apply when stationary. As the springs inflate, they would raise the car and reduce the camber apparent in the photo..

 

VIP Jaguar,
Countyjag makes a good point. Is the ride height shown in the photo representative of the condition when the vehicle is driven. If not can you provide a photo showing the car wheel and wheel arch at the ride height when the vehicle is driven. Better still, could you measure the vertical distance, in line with the wheel axis, between the wheel rim and the edge of the wheel arch. Also what is the rim size - 16" ?