I'm having excessive inner tire wear = negative camber, I assume it's due to the low front height of my Jag. The front height spec. is 15 3/4" and I'm at 14 1/2". I have already replaced the upper and lower bushings and the strut mounts so maybe the springs have lost strength after 99,000 miles? I do not see any way to adjust camber, and am considering changing the springs. The recommended spring is a JLM 20706 with a $250 cost, aftermarket springs can be had for less. Has anyone any experience with good or bad results?

 

There is no built in camber adjustment but an eccentric bolt can be obtained to replace the upper control arm bolt to give a small degree of adjustment. How is the toe-in?
The height on my XK8 is right at 15.75" on one side and 15.25 on the other side. That side has the castor off. My camber is out of spec also on both sides. But so was the toe-in which was adjustable. Worn lower ball joints can also cause inner tire wear.


Dave

 

Mine sits low as well at 14.25". Has new mounts, springs and shocks, but I believe the aftermarket springs are the incorrect rate.

There is a difference in the convertible vs. the coupe and I suspect I was sold the coupe coils. Mine had over 100k miles when I swapped and the height even with new upper shock mounts dropped lower! Has to be spring rate issue. And yes it is causing inner tire wear.

So, verify you get the right springs. Ask for the Jag part number using your VIN. Then you can match that if you decide to go aftermarket.

 

Thanks for the feedback, I haven't changed the lower ball joints but have them (Lemforders) for my to-do list (uppers are new). The top of the strut/shock has 3 press-in studs, I plan to replace with longer bolts and add spacers on top of the strut mount to bring it back to 15 3/4". I obtained the replacement spring # JLM 20706 off the Gaudin Jaguar website. Since my 2001 XKR has the larger brembo brakes with 20" wheels and 255/35/20's in the front, I'll contact them with my VIN for confirmation.

 

Be careful with this approach and measure everything.

I had a 1" spacer made by a friend with metal fabrication skills and it lengthened the shock assembly in a way that would not allow the coils to clear the top wishbone mount on the body. It pushed it out enough that the shock angle was off and the lower eye hole did not line up with the mount to get the bolt in.

Here is what too much over engineering combined with too much time will get you.

 

Zeecat, the press in studs have a spot weld on them and you will need to give them the same, as there is no way to grab them when installed.


Wayne

 

Well, a 1" Spacer at the inboard position where the Spring lives would probably have resulted in a 2" increase in Ride Height.

 

Yeah, I said it was over engineered. Too bad it wasn't better thought out.

 

Just wondering, I thought the XKR's had a lower height than the the XK8's. My XKR Portfolio is also 14.5" from the center of the wheels to the fender flange on both sides. I don't see any weird tire wear or worn anything in the front suspension.

 

Today I installed a spacer above the shock mount on the driver's side along and changed out the lower ball joint (now that's fun!). I agree with Jag #4's comment, there's only about 3/4" extra space to install spacers before the shock mount lower spring support will not clear the upper A-arm aluminum block. The original shock mount studs are tack welded, I replaced with longer studs but installed a nut ( 1/4" thick) on the other side of the shock mount to prevent them from turning, then placed a 1/2" spacer on top, giving a total of 3/4". I'm in process on the passenger side so will provide the final height results later

 

Hi guys, I am getting the front end of my 2003 XKR aligned at an independent shop. He has done work for me before and has a lot of Jag experience, so I have confidence in his work. When I look at Gaudin Jag site, they quote bolt # MJA1455AD, item #10, $43 which I think is the stock non eccentric bolt#. Terry's quotes JZB100086, $38, which I think is the correct eccentric camber bolt. Am I correct? Has anyone gotten the eccentric camber bolt from Gaudin? I like Barratt, but I can't call until Monday. Does anyone know the largest adjustment that can be made with these bolts? I heard that it is very small. Thanks for the help.

 

Unless negative camber is approaching 2 degrees, your inner tire wear is probably something else, either ball joint, or more likely incorrect toe. There is plenty of info on the forum about this if you search. I can tell you I am at negative 1.5 and 1.2 left and right camber and have no inner tire wear for the past 3 years and 30k + miles.

Alignment shops need to know what they are doing. A slight toe-in helps compensate for negative camber. The Mercedes pressor bar method is also necessary - push out at the front of both front wheels at the same time when on the rack to simulate what the wheels do when driving, which is naturally toe out, then set for more toe-in. I have the shop set it until it just hits out of spec for toe-in.

Also, be sure your fuel tank is full as per Jaguar.

And be sure the car was not just up on a lift with the wheels hanging in the air, such as when getting an oil change first, then an alignment. The ride height is higher than normal once the car is set back down on its wheels, causing camber to be more normal, and toe setting to be different than once the car settles back to normal ride height. it takes a few hours or some driving before the suspension settles to normal ride height again (preferably driving). If you drive it straight to the alignment rack after being on the lift, the camber mysteriously is near normal. Ask how I know this if you can't figure it out.

I always have my alignment done first, then oil change after.

 

Hi guys, I need some help for my XKR. I put new tires on the rear of my new to me 2003 XKR. I had excessive inner tire wear front and rear, so I put spring spacers in the front to bring the ride height up to spec, and adjusted the toe. All good and in spec in the front. I bought the incorrect rear spacers. When I got the 4 wheel alignment, I was told that I was now 1* positive, both sides, not negative like I was supposed to be. You do not notice visually the +1* from 20 feet. Should I bother buying 6mm spacers to get me in spec, then swap out the too thick 7.5mm shims I bought in error? I will try to sell the 7.5s. If I will start to wear out the outside of my new tires, then I better fix it. I did the calculations and multiplications a dozen times, and I still got it wrong. Oh well, it must be time for a new slide rule.