Hi, my 96 X300 4.0L will not start. It will run for about 3 seconds then die. Was running perfectly well yesterday. I have noticed on bit of a stripdown that the plunger has come out the back of the inhibitor solenoid thing on the J gate. Would this cause the problem or is that a seperate issue.
Any help gratefully received.

 

I don't imagine the park lock solenoid has anything to do with your problem, as you say the car starts, and runs, for a few seconds. I would tend to lean towards a fuel issue, insofar as the car starts on the fuel that's in the throttle, but dies because no more fuel is forthcoming. I'm no expert, but just my opinion. Then of course, there are so many sensors, gizmos, gadgets etc. on these cars, it could be something totally different. Hang about and others will chime in, but in the meanwhile, checking out your fuel pump mightn't be any harm. Access to the wiring connections is via the boot, behind the interior panel beneath the rear window.

 

As said, plus:

The fuel pump relay, in the boot alongside the battery.
The fuel pump itself, inside the fuel tank, so tank out for that one.

Those are the main ones, and the rest gets iffy.

The CAS (crank angle sensor) may be an issue, but since it fires I am not convinced.
The Cam Angle sensor (the thingy where a distributor once lived) may be another concern.

So, my suggestions are:

I would be getting some one with GOOD hearing, and have him/her poke their head in the boot as you turn ON the ignition, and see if the hum of the pump can be heard.

If not, then relay or pump is high on the list.

If YES, then fuel filter blocked comes to mind.
OR
The issue with the high pressure hose blowing off the pump, and simply spraying fuel around inside the tank, again, tank out for that one.

Some things there to keep you busy for an hour or two.

Report back with findings, either way.

 

Does it start back up again instantly once it has died?

 

I had exactly the same problem on my 300. Turned out to be the air flow sensor.

Try disconnecting it and then see if the engine continues to run. If it does run then don't run it too long as, according to the Jag mech, it can damage the cats.

Hope this helps.

 

Hi, no it doesn't start up again after the initial start. I thought perhaps it may be the fuel pump. Does that really involve removing the tank. Looking on the forum I see some people have done the repair with tank in place.

 

Rob,

That is purely your choice, and it is your car after all.

Cutting holes and panels is against my grain. Twisting and pulling the tank enough for access runs the risk of damage to the pipes coming out the bottom very high on my list.

I tried the "in car" way with mine, and finally gave up, and removed the thing, it is fiddly, and appears daunting, but not that bad. Took me about 2 hours the first time.

The new pump was sooooo noisy, so out again, and all up about 2 hours.

Before jumping to tank out go thru all the checks first.

Another "quicky" is to "crack" the 2 nut fuel pipe fitting at the rear of the fuel rail (inlet pipe), and switch the ign ON, and observe a good squirt of fuel, or maybe a dribble.

Squirt is good, dribble is sad.

PLEASE be careful with the fuel spill, common sense is fantastic here.

I stuff rags around and make sure the area is well ventilated, and a 2nd pair of hands is ALWAYS right there.

The fuel pump relay is a well talked about failure item, you might be lucky.

 

Hi, I haven't found any threads about removing the tank. Could you give me a few tips and instructions for doing this job please.

 

Oh.

Drain the fuel.
Remove the battery from the car.
Remove the trim panel up against the tank.
Remove the 2 boot struts, use a rope or similar to hold the boot lid open.
Remove the wires from the fuel sender, noting where they went first.
Undo the straps, and remove them.
Up on top of the tank are various electrical connector plugs, Dis-connect them and move them out of the way.
Remove the spring clip on the outside of the filler spout, securing the rubber to the filler pipe.

UNDER THE CAR.
Remove the 2 pipes up in the dumbest place that could have been thought of. You will need one of those "quick connect" fuel pipe tools, which are available at any parts store. A sense of humour here will help significantly. Sadly there is no easy way with these. With the tool attached, push the tool AND the pipe in at the same time, and the pipe should simply pop out. It will take some trial and error, but it will work. The size of tool is the 5/16 one, NOT the 8mm, although the pipes are metric, the 5/16 works the best.

BACK IN THE BOOT:

Dis-connect the breather pipe, LH side of the tank, tucked up out of sight. Might be easier once the tank is part way out.

Now juggle the tank out.

When refitting watch the sharp edges of the tank on those wires and plastic pipes.

Thats about what I remember.

 

Great thanks for that. Will give it a try.

 

Argh yes worst place for the quick connects

 

I simply cut about where the fuel tank opening is and had great success. Took me less than an hour to get access and change my fuel pump. I covered it up with self adhesive foam and replaced the cover and its like nothing ever happened. Granted it wasn't my fuel pump causing the problem.