XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

Passenger door locking fault

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Old 11-13-2012, 02:02 PM
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Default Passenger door locking fault

I have an actuator fault on my X300 front passenger door.

The door does not lock with the remote or by the central locking system on the dash. All other doors work OK.

The plunger on the passenger door is rested in the 3/4 up position and springs back to the same position when depressed but doesn't lock the door.

The key can't lock the door either but works on the other doors.

The window works OK on this door (in case it had a common fuse).

Can anyone advise if these doors are individual fused ?
 
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:42 PM
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Since posting I have found the applicable electrical diagram for this model on the CaptainsJaguar link (Thanks for that quick-link).

Swapping out the front and rear passenger relays does not change the situation and the fuses (maybe only one) appear to be fine to I think I'm looking at the actuator failure itself. I have also found the link to take the door panel off (not a job I'm looking forward to).
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:32 AM
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Could you share the link for the door panel removal?

Thanks
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mikesmith2
Could you share the link for the door panel removal?

Thanks
Mike,

Here's the Service Manual section for Door Trim removal:

X300 - Door Trim.pdf

It covers both front and rear doors.

Graham
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:35 PM
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Thanks for that Graham it's better than the link I found. Here's one with coloured pics.

click here
 
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Old 11-28-2012, 01:47 PM
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Well I have removed the door panel, it came off easily without breaking anything.

I've attempted to remove the linkages to the activator, the exterior/interior door handles work OK but I cannot move the linkage of the key barrel to the lock position, it only moves in the unlock position.

Now to remove the actuator these 3 links (door handles and barrel) look difficult to remove without breakages.

1. The interior door handle cable looks like it has a permanent clamp (metal ring crimped with a pressing tool) to the plastic holder of the handle.

2. Can't see too clearly the way both the key-barrel linkage and exterior door handle linkages are connected to the actuator. (This appears to be the same principle but different linkages to all views of other models shown on this site).

My question really is apart from how to get the linkages off this model (X300) is it possible to determine if it is the actuator or the barrel which is stuck which cannot be moved into the locked position. (I am assuming it's the actuator which is stuck). Is there anyway to free this without taking it out ? (Assuming I can get the linkages off without breaking them).
 

Last edited by JagNZ; 11-28-2012 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:22 PM
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Well I've answered my own questions.

I have successfully removed the actuator without breaking anything.

For anyone doing the same on this model the link to the exterior door handle is just a push on plastic clip at the actuator end, it pulls off and snaps back on like a ball and socket.

The key barrel link consists of a plastic arm on the actuator connecting to the metal key barrel rod and is joined by a plastic sleeve which if you push down towards the actuator causes the sleeve to slide down and release the link.

The interior door cable should not be detached from the interior door handle where it is crimped into position but should be taken off at the actuator. The cable is held by a tiny metal locking bar which can be taken off and the cable lifted out.

The door plunger link just snaps off the plastic connector (pull off/push on).

The actuator itself can be taken out (first remove the 3 small bolts in the door jam) from the top hole, not the bottom hole in the panel because the window rail prevents you doing that. It will come out easily enough from the hole where you can see the actuator.

Now to examine the actuator................
 

Last edited by JagNZ; 12-11-2012 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:55 PM
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I could not see what was wrong with the actuator, electrically it tested out OK but mechanically it didn't work as it should. For instance when the plunger lever was pressed down it just sprang back up. I noticed the difference when I bought a second-hand actuator and mechanically it tested OK before I had installed it in the car.

I've just installed the replacement and it works perfectly.

I'll fiddle around with the old one some more to see why mechanically it has failed as nothing is broken, it just doesn't click into any actionable position.

Interesting to see the various quotes from wreckers spare parts, they ranged from NZ$250 (US$208) (GBP125) to NZ$700.
 
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:39 PM
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I had the same thing happen to the passenger door of my 2000 VDP. I got the lock assembly out, removed the solenoid assembly, and pried it open. There is a little white plastic part that was broken in half. I have reassembled the door so I can manually lock the door with the solenoid missing. Am on the lookout for a solenoid or a complete assembly if necessary. Anyone know if there is a source on the solenoid only? Or a used complete latch assy at a reasonable price?
Thanks, Dave Warner Atlanta, GA 404-915-2149
 
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:35 AM
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Apparently a common problem - mine's broken too. In fact, I had already taken the door panel off and looked inside before I read this post. I hadn't yet figured out how to get the linkages off the actuator. Thanks for that advice. But after seeing what a replacement actuator might cost I think I'll just put it back together and live with it.
 
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:51 AM
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It's been ages since I've looked at one so I can't remember the size and configuration of the lock actuators, but....

There are perfectly good aftermarket actuators out there for $15-$50 each....in all sizes and shapes. I wonder if one would be close enough to replace the original, perhaps requiring only a bit of ingenuity?

Just a thought.

Cheers
DD
 
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