I know this may be answered somewhere in the forums but it's just too difficult to search on this forum, so here goes...
I have a 1996 X300 and I need to replace the alternator.
There's this big, black thing in the way.
Some sort of "air pump" that is probably useless in 2020 but I can't find any info on whether or not it's really necessarily so I'll leave that alone.
It seems like, with the "air pump" situated where the alternator should be which would make it a 15 min. task, I'll need to take it out from below, right?
I've read something about loosening the front sway-bar, unbolting the ends and swinging it out of the way but I think that may have been for a Series car.
Has anybody done this lately, in their driveway and 58 years old, so this is gonna hurt....
The shop up the street that's going to mount the barely used Michelins that I scored for $180 (130 mph rated) want's $550 to replace the alternator and I just can't countenance that for something I should be able to do in half an hour if it weren't for this ridiculous "air-pump"...
So..What say you?
I have all the tools but no garage and no lift, just jackstands and a driveway...but I wanna get this done before I get the tires mounted...

Thanks.

 

The voltage regulator is a IN435

https://store.alternatorparts.com/in435---voltage-regulator.aspx

and

https://store.alternatorparts.com/nippondenso-brush-holder-assembly.aspx

There is a fuse for the alternator # 10 /5 amp RH engine fuse box , this is a source of problems

The alternator only comes out from the top

Keep track of where the 2 small wires remove from , there are another 2 small wires at a round rubber connector boot

There is a long pivot bolt that must be removed from the bottem

There appears to be a long bushing that goes all the way through the pivot bolt , it is a short bushing that stays in place

you may have to use a long screwdriver and pry as the alternator my be pinched and not pull out

Have the parts store bench test the new alternator before installation

 

I don't know for certain that the air pump needs to be removed to R&R the alternator, but it would certainly improve visibility and access. No need to fear it: an electrical connection, two hose clamps, then remove 3 M6 bolts with your 8mm socket and Bob's yer uncle!





I've not removed an alternator, but have renewed the belts. Alternator belt is tensioned by a frustrating threaded rod arrangement that you can only turn a fraction of a radian at a time due to lack of spanner access. You'll probably have to loosen the tension a bit to effect removal. There is a bolt fixing the alternator ear to the block that rides on that threaded rod.




Electrical connections on the back, of course. Might be a good idea to disconnect the battery in the boot first! There is one more fixing, the pivot, at the bottom, but I don't recall if that bolt has a nut requiring a backup wrench or not.



Pics are from a 97 4.0L NA with MAF and air feed hose removed to facilitate other maintenance. If your engine air cleaner needs a service, removal of the air box may make things a bit easier with respect to alternator removal.

 

Thanks. That's good info. Either way, this thing isn't gonna replace itself.

 

Thanks. That's good info.
Looks like no matter what, this is gonna involve me just getting it done.
I'm just not gonna pay someone else $550 to do this.
They're gonna double the price of the alternator and charge me $110 an hour.
I would rather have the original rebuilt.
I've had better luck with rebuilt original parts than with "re-manufactured".
I remember years ago getting 2 or 3 bad starters from a Kragan Autoparts before I just took the original to this old family owned shop that rebuilt it and repainted it and it was just beautiful and it worked and it's just the way to go.

 

The original Denso brand alternator is robust and can be tested off vehicle at the auto parts store to see what is specifically wrong

The brushes have plenty of wear at the 110 K mile mark , but the small screw holding both the regulator and the brushes together may be fused on too tight to separate hence a replacement brush on ordering is advisable

Fuse ?

Is the original alternator putting out 13.5 volts at the alternator B+ post or the 2 large post on the firewall

 

I definitely like the idea of rebuilding the original. Don't know who they have doing the remanufacturing of these, generally, but I get the impression that it's not done by skilled, well-paid technicians, but perhaps small children in some faraway, right-to-work 2nd world nation.
It's definitely not putting out 13.5 and I checked the fuses and they're fine.
It's definitely the alternator.

Thanks for the tips, folks.
Now that it's cooling down I can tackle this and have it done in a day....
My Subaru took 15 minutes in a Liquor Store parking lot across the street from a Pep Boys....
But it didn't have a nifty "air pump" in the way!
What a crappy car that was after 300k miles.....

 

For fast and efficient forum searches, I go straight to the World experts in privacy invasion:




Just start the search criteria with jaguar forums.

Graham

 

Rebuilt alternators from your friendly local auto parts store have a 50/50 chance of being dead on arrival and/or crap. A certified Denso reman from RockAuto is usually a better bet.

 

It’s even better if you use the site: option on google as it only takes you to best part of the Forum, the x300 part!