starter solenoid installed 180 out thereby reversing battery connections on solenoid ?

Must be some sort of not being able to install solenoid wrong

but then the solenoid mount screws are 3 so can't with a 120 degree 3 hole pattern

 

i have one of these portable jump starter packs designed to be connected to the battery to jump the car if the battery goes flat.
can you connect one of these direct to starter?
*seems you may have already done essentially this with a 2nd battery tho.

i have recently got a 7.5w 12v solar panel and connected it to a socket i installed under bonnet connected to the RHS engine bay fuse box and RHS rear firewall ground point.
this is designed to trickle charge my battery however something like this could potentially be used to give a voltage boost to help overcome a voltage drain?

what happens if yod disconnect and bypass the alternator?
i may have missed something in all your posts as there is a lot to go through and it seems like one hell of a headache you have to deal with right now, but i would suspect there has to be a ground issue on the starting circuit.
i mean it could be anywhere on and ign controlled circuit.
have you checked for excessive drain on the battery once IGN is on?
what happens if you pull every fuse not related to the starting circuit and try to crank then?
seems unlikely as i can't see that any circuit would be able to pull enough power to cause this drop without blowing a fuse, but at this point surely every thing deserves to be checked.

i really wish i could help.
don't wish this kind of headache on anyone let alone someone already struggling in other areas of their lives.
hope you get this sorted before the driveway police pounce again.
HOAs need to get a life.

maybe you need and old school hand crank to turn the motor by hand. hahaha.

 

the alternator if shorting would drain the battery overnight

too much current draw on the battery is suspected but mega fuses not blown as a large amp meter like substitution.

with 2 batteries in parralel in the trunk no help with starter sag

pull fuses thought of but starter sag only accurse at starter engagement , and not with cabin fan blowers

Wire from starter solenoid relay to solenoid free and not shorting , but will look again

Need to swap starter solenoid relay if shorting internally

Key in ignition / run position no voltage sag , just in start position

The driveway police , judge , and prosecuting attorney say I do not have a right to speek during court

Brother not putting on big boy pants speaking up for assistance or court proceedings

Domber then a vegemite plant

or a kangaroo cage short ceiling height

or a one way boomerang

or a north star map in Australia

.or a..................

 

i mean i would only have to logically assume starter motor is as cooked as an irishman in the sun.

really stumped as to what else might the cause.

 

Task for now

swap starter solenoid relay

remove battery B+ alternator post

Recheck a 2nd battery setup on starter only ensuring I have things configured correctly , I was only getting a sound thump like the solenoid moving the starter into flywheel but no rotation

With that test last night t think I was still getting large voltage sag

 

Removed and placed alternator battery B + cable end into leather glove to insulate

No help

Below 9 volt starter sag at instument cluster

Failed diode LED 101 trying to make a ignition test flashing light

Get a couple of cylinder combustions at less than 9 volts but not sure ignition is active

 

Good news

Double checked my work on jumper cable 2nd battery ( 12.5 2nd battery volts current / load check OK couple days ago ) jumper on the starter cable lifted and isolated from rest of car

I do have a spare starter cable

Starter moment time car voltage barely sags down below 11 volts , very low starter rotation that it does not register on the instrument cluster , probably not enough RPM for a combustion

Original starter cable configuation I would get 200 starter RPM but to 9 volt starter sag

Inspected alternator and starter cables and starter solenoid relay white control wire to starter solenoid

Need to swap starter solenoid relay in case it is shorting to ground

with that improved voltage on the instrument cluster I should be closer to having active ignition if not already having it

I don't think there is a better heavy current ground point than the exposed exhaust studs on the engine block

Will be getting short battery cable test cables to ensure I have good connection on the 2nd battery configuration and get better starter RPMs

This is pointing to a starter shorting out but have tried 3 or 4 starter/ solenoids , fingers crossed on the starter solenoid relay swap

Had to plead guilty in driveway court today

Be going into kidney related surgery Friday as my health came first priority

 

Hi Parker,

Remember that exhaust studs tend to corrode and are likely corroded on their threads into the cylinder head, adding considerable electrical resistance. Also, the ground path through these studs is via the cylinder head bolts, which tend to become oil soaked on their threaded ends into the block. Then the engine ground strap to body ground.

Off the top of my head, the best ground is arguably the battery negative post, followed by the negative battery cable-to-body bolt, followed by the engine ground strap-to-body threaded hole. I'm still not sure if you've ruled out high resistance via the engine ground strap?

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don ,

I see what your saying on the treads of the exhaust studs but just wiggled the jumper cable clamp on the studs outside surface on the nuts

Starter cable does get warm if not too hot as a crude knowlage of current going to starter solenoid

I have used a parallel large jumper from starter mounting bolt head itself to the steering rack to frame bracket mount bolts but one observation is I have too much of a ground path up front

other explanation would be too much resistance just after the trunk battery but did some looking there

Will look for engine block bolt and run through a bolt with valve grinding compound and wash the grit out with alcohol to clean to good metal

Lifting bracket for engine hoist ?

If I remove the battery cable off the starter solenoid and place the exposed cable end in a leather glove that would prove with no starter sag and back to original battery cable factory configuration that the solenoid or starter motor is shorting to ground and will remove the starter again , I'm good at it by now

 

Lifting and isolating the starter cable on the right fron wheel well with no starter sag already proves the starter / solenoid assembly is at fault

The starter cable is not cutting into the metal clamps as it goes over the rear of the engine block

 

Conferring with a local electrical minded person points out that since I fried the CKPS sensor ( confirmed with a meter and replaced ) I may have fried the ECU or the portion that discerns the CKPS signal when I put the battery in backwards 6 months ago

Had it starterd 1.5 years ago with the same large starter to 9 volt sag but burned up the alternator bearing , since replaced

Changed out old fuel

Ignition relay and large ECU control relay clicks ( the power contact points can still be burnt ? bad )

Fuel pump relay Jumper'd

Isolated battery cable carry fwd from the starter solenoid by removing B + alternator post and placing battery cable in a leather glove

What ever went through to ruin the CKPS probably ruined the ECU or the wire shield between the ECU and CKPS

Meter time to see if I have the timed and pulsed grounds provided by the ECU at both the injectors and coils before pulling a ECU from the salvage yard , pretty sure they have one

Need to ensure the CKPS wires have not shorted to surrounding shield ground ( dashed lines in picture ) or a broken center conductor wire from the ECU to the CKPS

Camshaft position sensor considerations ?

 

Parker 7, I had a problem at the rotary safety neutral safety switch located on the transmission that wasn't communicating with the starter and the J gate. Tried to clean it but no luck so put in a used one and she started fine..

 

i really hope to see some good news on this soon.

 

In my tinkering's I had removed , opened , and cleaned the rotary position switch some years back for some reason or maybe no reason.

But the switch should only be involved with starter control and not muscle power to the starter from my understanding

The last starter solenoid I installed which has the muscle battery cable power passing through it was a Bosch brand stamped item along with the starter motor and marketed by Bosch so they may have had some standards in a 3rd party remanufacturing there product reputation

That starter did rotate as today albeit the large to 9 volt starter sag and the car started back 1.5 years ago but not lately with the same starter assembly parts , solenoid and electric motor

So need to verify the ECU is alive and commanding spark and fuel

I tried making a basic diode light but I failed basic doide 101 fabrication.

I'm sure I looked into using a old school needle meter which in theory should see a needle wiggle

I don't think a old school node light will work in this application

After project sponge bath ( I recently completed a kidney related surgery that went well.........ish ) will be going to auto parts store and ask Kevin the questions

A couple of days left as the 3rd court date is threatening 1 year driveway jail

 

installed positive battery post shim in order to tighten the post connection

Lost starter that was rotating before

Removed starter solenoid connector aft of the valve cover , connector PI 142 which is the last connector before the solenoid screw connection ( ckecked )

Reading 0.3 ohms through the solenoid to engine / intake manifold test point

Applied positive power at the connector no solenoid click

 

Verified Right engine bay fuse box and large ECU Controlled relay click getting the correct command to close , swapped

Verified starter solenoid relay clicks closed , swapped

Verified with meter on the correct starter relay

Gotta get the starter rotating so I can verify ignition and fuel injectors

By pulling out a coil with plug and the plug grounded by a battery jumper cable should see spark

Splice the coil into a fuel injector.connector should see the spark plug respond

 

Middle of changing starter assembly from a spare in the garage

Little patents this time around as this is the 5th time from the bottom

Taking breaks while I dialyze for kidney's

Starter that recently failed has 0.3 ohms resistance through the solenoid vs. 1.1 ohms on the assembly to be installed. ( small white control wire to case ground )

Both of these are almost a direct short scenario but I gotta try before new parts arrive

Driveway prison 3rd trial date Tuesday

 

good luck on all fronts.

medical, legal and mechanical.

 

Yes, I concur, in that order!

 

Thanks ,

Running after errands on foot and back to starter installation later

An odd thing a couple days ago with the starter that has been installed I could only hear the solenoid as a clunk only happen once on the first try after battery hook up and not return

Now that the starter is removed and test bench with a battery the solenoid extends and gets starter motor rotation albeit no mechnical load

Need to verify with a test lamp or meter that the BPM is commanding the starter solenoid relay correctly all the time , I may have damaged the BPM

But I did try putting power on the solenoid control wire directly , no joy

Wiring inspection and tightening no faults found

Gotta get rotation back that disappeared lately