Put the new battery in backwards again and regrouping with good starter rotation but no light off ( carry on forward )

Battery post were built backwards so fell into that error out of complacency

New battery fully charged

All relays in the corners of the fuse boxes click closed

Large voltage sag ( 9 volts ) at starter rotation

Bosch rebuilt starter installed with low use that worked before

No voltage sag with cabin blowers running

Fuel pump relay jumpered and pump runs and bypass noise at fuel pressure regulator

Bore wash treatment soaked overnight

starter fluid got a couple of cylinders to ignite

Cleaned plugs

CKPS replaced as was reading no cranking RPMs , indicates now

Drained at fuel filter and fresh fuel ( 3 gallons ) but no fuel gauge indication

Battery charger on full start amperage setting

Getting ready to parallel 2 batteries if the old one can be any help

The fact that the battery post are backwards probably had me confused recently thinking the last battery was bad on charger

New battery charger questionable , wouldn't drive a 12 volt air pump but then I think it has a battery self test before providing umf or a delay

Maybe change fuel filter again

 

2 batteries no help

9 volts at starter sag

Engine fire with starter fluid as it back fired

Fire out now , no damage

 

Going to replace the CKPS again as it has a spark to backfire but maybe timing is off

It should read 1300ohms as a basic test

Should be starting off the cam position sensor anyway

I'll have to verify cam position sensor adjusted correctly

But then the ignition timing should be retarded more toward TDC in the starting sequence

 

I'll have to check the large ECU control relay in the morning as I have another court date on the unlicensed car in private home driveway

And a fuse check

$ !00 a day fine

 

i wish i could offer you some advice to help you.
but seeing as though you are the one normally dishing out plenty of advice i don't know what to say that you do not already know.

sucks man.

 

Back up so back at it

No local assistance as I'm a final stage kidney failure patient getting things accomplished in order for kidney transplant

local brother and father no help or neighbors

But will be a Rocky Moment to succeed in spite of that

Fuse check first especially right engine bay fuse box

 

Right engine bay fuse check good

Green corrosion in the wire strands in the battery cable connection to fuse box terminal post , will look for new terminal end to correct.. In the mean time will put a battery jumper cable between firewall terminal post and right fuse box post

Walking to pick up another fuel filter ( may be clogged from contaminated fuel ) and another CKPS from a different source

Large ECU control relay not checked as a single person operation but assuming it should click on removal with key in run , clicks OK so getting correct close command.

 

Current old CKPS 0.3 Mega ohms and wacky

Current replaced CKPS 1450 ohms as basic reading so it's at lest intact but maybe smaller signal amplitude when functioning

Another CKPS coming in within the hour from a different source

Jumpered the terminal post on right engine bay fuse box , no help

Recharging battery for another try with starter fluid

 

The inertia switch wasn't tripped, was it?

 

Thanks Vee ,

The car was running when purchased but wonky as they had the wiring sub par

The original inertia switch was removed by me and I have a replacement

Currently have the 2 white wires spliced

Car was running in this configuration the Christmas before last when the alternator bearing gave up the smoke of death

So the car has a history of bad aged fuel and water in the fill well

Putting in new fuel filter in hand now with fresh premium fuel that was changed last week

Another CKPS in hand now

 

Jaguar court was canceled at the last minute for their internet issues

So the $ 100 a day doesn't start for next court date of 2 weeks from now

Question ;

Copper wave washers were included with the new filter but left them out

Almost caught a tread on the last fitting but close

Outie on the outie side

But.............................since the new fuel pressure regulator and yesterdays fuel filter is making bypass noise I'm assuming the pump through filter is achieving needed pressure , at least for start

My next step is to visit the salvage yard for a replacement battery cable to the right engine by fuse box < alot of ugly green in the cable strands at the post terminal end , or swap with the left

When I had the rear seat out I did not recocongize the triangle Terminal post cover until Watto700 posted a pic so will be getting on it

 

Did you turn on ignition with backwards battery in? If so, what happened, anything? I could see damage happening. If fuel filter/ckps/battery cable don't revive the Lady, you might go to a spare ECU. I'm sure your parts yard has one. BPM could be damaged by reverse polarity? I wouldn't know what to expect in case of this anomaly!

Glad you got an extension on the court date. We don't want to see her to go to automotive jail. You either!

 

A few months back is when I put the battery in backwards to move away from house for painters

I'm sure I tried to start it back then but no starter rotation

So tried to naturally shift to neutral to push away the shift lock solenoid. prevented that

remembering the override screw I jumped on the forum for instructions and someone came through

Then I discovered how I fell for the new battery post being built backwards

Currently the BPM should not be completely dead as this enables starter solenoid relay closing and i currently have that

Same not completely dead ECU as this enables the starter as well

The salvage yard probably has these 2 items and would be a good idea to a least have a future spare

Shift lock solenoid works correctly with battery properly installed as well as the rest of the car coming alive

From experience when I first purchased the car I put the battery in backwards and it blew a couple of fuses and fried the voltage regulator but recovered from that and ran

Have a spare IN435 voltage regulator in hand after engine running observation

Cold today but have to remove the rear seat for the battery cable terminal post under the triangular cover as a loose nut may be my 9 volt starter sag

9 volts should be too low for ECU operation but got it started in the past with this voltage value

Need to replace the right engine bay fuse box battery cable to square up even though jumpering from the firewall terminal post didn't help

I better not see the mayor driving my Jag while I'm sitting in driveway jail ( yep they threatened that ) I'll have to find a harmonica.

If they're so concerned with what is in my private driveway they can come help me shovel the snow off it

 

I'd suggest going back to basics.

Check compression on all 6, Check Spark at all 6, check fueling. See what you've got and what you haven't got so you have a baseline and then go from there.

Don't assume anything. Prove it.

 

I have the original; FPR with a tap on the correct side for fuel pressure test , will put back in

Cranking RPMs show 200 instead of the 300 for the compression test Doc numbers even though in service compression values should be lower , this comes back around to the starter sag to 9 volts

Did a bore wash treatment and let soak overnight with a oil unsticking treatment , Rislone brand

The treatment may have washed away in the heat of battle

Node light may not work on coil supply wires so thinking of plug removal test method

Watching a old school needle meter flicker would confirm ECU is providing timed grounds for ECU functioning by having enough operating voltage

All coils tested OK on a Innova 4400 machine for whatever that's worth

Starter fluid will hardly get a couple of cylinder ignitions , like 1 in a 100 top cyleder firing positions

 

Not sure what you have used but sounds like some kind of solvent for freeing gummed up rings? If so, that's the opposite of what you need for bore wash condition.

All that is required is a teaspoon of standard engine oil in each cylinder. No need for it to soak. Just put it in, put the plugs back and fire up.

 

Yes Rislone is my go to for freeing up stuck things like hydraulic lifters ( not in this case ) and piston rings

Will be using motor oil with a 20 ml syringe , but will hold off first least too much

will put a meter on the ground wire return to the ECU spark fire command , if it is there as a needle flicker at the starting sag voltage of 9 volts

Need to swap the 2 ECU powering relays least the power contacts got burnt , they click getting the correct command

Then pull the rear seat out and go through all battery cable terminal post connections

 

Parker
I have admired your inputs to this forum. I am in my 80's and I have too nearly stuffed up connections to batteries.
Consequently I have sprayed a substantial amount of red paint around every positive battery post and red paint on my battery terminals.
That alerts me that I may not be doing the connections correctly.
It works for me with currently 4 Jags 3 other brands 2 aeroplanes and a rider mower.
Cheers

 

I had a taped on arrow pointing fwd as the positive post but not for the new battery that was built backwards and didn't catch it

Vision came back somewhat to drive and the posts have a brail raised plus and negative lettering but I relied on the overall layout being the same

And I was wrong

 

Terminal post under seat pan aft of the heelboard fuse box tight