Don't give up Parker 7 , you are the most knowledgeable Jaguar electrical problem solver I know and if you can't fix it no one car. Wish I was closer I would come bye and try to help you.

 

Driveway jail court date set back 2 weeks , records issue on their side

I learned from the contributors like yourself and exercises working through them

At the point of starter mounting bolts installation

 

New set of patients and finished starter installation

Final checks before operational test of old starter / solenoid that spun the engine before just fine with barely starting the engine , large starter voltage sag previously observed before with these parts but saved in garage

Fingers crossed

 

Old starter no help , no engagement or rotation , that starter assembly rotated the engine before and then removed a few years back

New starter sitting at parts store ordered a few days back , no solenoid included , but I have the Bosch solenoid number stamped into the solenoid metal on the starter assembly removed

So will have to order from a source it's Bosch number

Gotta trust the number is correct but the solenoid can still be counterfeit as it failed in the pulling coil resistance changed recently to a value closer to direct short to ground

Measured before installing at least a year and a half ago with good installed rotation the black Bosch starter solenoid on Bosch starter motor as a Bosch remanufactured assembly from Autozone

Measured 1.3 ohms to case ground before and changed to 0.3 ohms at failure

Need to put test light on starter solenoid relay and see it gets the correct command from BPM and the control power sitting on the relay from it's source X and it's fuse

I only heard the solenoid clunk once before ( with no rotation ) a couple days ago and not repeat itself again

I should at least get a participation trophy and the court date pushed back to June 21st at the same time as a un reschedulable Kidney Dr. appointment for Little Bubba and Little Bobo. ( the little kidneys that could )

 

Low amp test light on starter solenoid relay socket control sockets light every time

If I jumper with a heavy wire socket 3 to 5 no joy on the direct starter energizing

This doesn't mean the delicate fingers transmission rotary position switch is not burnt and compromised.

Looking for higher current test light knowing it could blow the fuse X

At least I know the BPM is giving the correct command and has all the other agreements like not in park , SLCM , and engine ECU

 

sounds like maybe a little progress.
maybe not directly closer to knowing what is the problem but certainly knowing more about what isn't the problem

 

Found left engine bay fuse box terminal post loose as it may have come apart inside the fuse box

Recently changed battery cable at that point with new built battery cable

The muscle that passes through the starter solenoid relay to close the solenoid is fuse # 3 and not blown

This is point 68 square on the diagram

Fuse # 3 is hot at all times by design and a replacement fuse box easy to obtain

This would account for starter not engaging or spinning but not starter voltage sap but maybe............

New solenoid on its way in a couple of days and get some counter advice on solenoid meter readings when picked up in person at the large local starter repair shop

 

really hope you get this fixed before you get into trouble with the neighborhood *****.
and once you are on the road again i will hassle you for some stuff!!

 

@Parker 7 just checking in for updates.
hope things are looking on the up and up.


updates on the car

updates on driveway court

updates on health

updates on likelyhood of getting anything shipped here anytime soon.

 

Thanks Spud Maat ,

Get back with you in a couple days

Maybe video clip of car starting observations as I extra tests wire it up looking at things

Spark with a LED diode flash

fuel injector with a LED diode flash

Fuel pump relay jumperd to run at all times and audibly confirmed , FPR changed

Fried CKPS confirmed and changed

Old fuel removed and replaced with fresh a couple months ago

Know how to record on my computer but upload is new to me

Tried to simple power up the donor car at the salvage yard to get your seat buckle but there is a workaround just powering up the seat connector aft motor pins , do you have memory seats as 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 buttons on the master door controller or non-memory that does not move on car exit ?

Black horizontal border plastic strip aft of ski slope removed with another part downstairs in a box of your stuff

Chrome shift lever square border removed

Shift lever move back for under ski slope plastic bracket can be achieved by manual override button under the screw head on the shift selector in the top left corner , worked for me on my car

The center console lid with cup holder is removed and in hand in excellent leather condition , hopefully the correct color so left with no oily leather conditioner if needs to be redyed

 

well hopefully its good progress for you.
cars are very fickle things that we love and hate at the same time

my car is full memory car.... (currently broken seat potentiometers but that is a later problem)
when you do move seat if you can get the handbrake switch also incase you did not already have.
and i think you had the jack rubbers.
would have to look through old DMs to remember everything.

 

Have 4 jack rubber caps and will get the hand parking brake switch

PM your address so I can get half shipment on the way

Any quick tips on just removing the right front seat at the rails for seat belt latch / receiver and mounting stalk?

The left seat will also need to move out of the way for left hand steering hand brake switch


Slow or fast mail ?

 

PM SENT....
well sending.....

 

Hi Parker,

Still praying for your health!

The seat rails are secured by just 4 screws. Start by turning the ignition ON, lowering the headrest and tilting the seat back forward so they will clear the headliner. Now move the seat all the way forward and remove the two rear screws (Parts 12). Then move the seat rearward and remove the two front screws that thread horizontally into the ledge in the floor (Parts 13). With all the screws out, you can tilt the seat backward for access underneath. Before disconnecting any seat electrical connectors (if necessary), turn the ignition OFF of course, and it's prudent to also disconnect the battery.





Cheers,

Don