Steering Column Cable Replacement - HowTo
#1
Steering Column Cable Replacement - HowTo
I have finally replaced this, it never worked since I bought the car and since its a rather daunting task I thought I'd document everything.
First remove the bottom panel and then the black panel underneath it. First is secured with 4 screws, second with the nut in the middle.
Remove this module for ease of access
Now remove two bolts on each side that hold the clocks
Now you should be able to lift up the clocks. Since the steering wheel is retracted down it might be a bit tricky to get it out at first but try from the outside and it will come out. At the same time all the rear plugs needs to be unplugged. Remove the plastics to get easier access to these:
Remove the plastics around the steering column:
By the way if you'd like to start the car at this point you will need to plug this back:
Remove two bolts that hold the steering wheel here:
Column will drop a little with these removed.
Move away these cables:
You should see the motor now:
Remove the left bolt but DO NOT remove the right nut, just loosen it up so the whole things drops a further cm
If you remove both, the whole column will drop down and it will be harder to push it back in, its heavy and awkward and it doesn't need to come down completely.
Cut the zip ties that hold the motor and slide it out, there is just enough space to get it out at this point.
Admire snapped cable and half disassembled dash
I have used a stainless steel 4mm square rod here, but a 5mm one should be used here with 4mm ends, I had to cut a small grove and add some steel wire to keep the rod in place.
Slide the motor back in, add new zip ties and put everything back together.
Now you should see this:
Since my steering wheel adjustment didn't work for 10+ years it was also completely stuck and it needed few attempts before the bolt finally moved fully up and down
Stainless steel square rod was ~£5, much cheaper than original cable which would snap within months anyway.
Some of the screws holding up the plastics are really tight so make sure to have a good selection of screwdrivers bits. Other than that 7mm, 8mm, 10mm and 13mm sockets are needed for the job.
Works great now, feels a bit odd at first to have the steering wheel so much closer to me but I'm sure I'll get used to it quickly
Took approx 3-4 hours to do.
First remove the bottom panel and then the black panel underneath it. First is secured with 4 screws, second with the nut in the middle.
Remove this module for ease of access
Now remove two bolts on each side that hold the clocks
Now you should be able to lift up the clocks. Since the steering wheel is retracted down it might be a bit tricky to get it out at first but try from the outside and it will come out. At the same time all the rear plugs needs to be unplugged. Remove the plastics to get easier access to these:
Remove the plastics around the steering column:
By the way if you'd like to start the car at this point you will need to plug this back:
Remove two bolts that hold the steering wheel here:
Column will drop a little with these removed.
Move away these cables:
You should see the motor now:
Remove the left bolt but DO NOT remove the right nut, just loosen it up so the whole things drops a further cm
If you remove both, the whole column will drop down and it will be harder to push it back in, its heavy and awkward and it doesn't need to come down completely.
Cut the zip ties that hold the motor and slide it out, there is just enough space to get it out at this point.
Admire snapped cable and half disassembled dash
I have used a stainless steel 4mm square rod here, but a 5mm one should be used here with 4mm ends, I had to cut a small grove and add some steel wire to keep the rod in place.
Slide the motor back in, add new zip ties and put everything back together.
Now you should see this:
Since my steering wheel adjustment didn't work for 10+ years it was also completely stuck and it needed few attempts before the bolt finally moved fully up and down
Stainless steel square rod was ~£5, much cheaper than original cable which would snap within months anyway.
Some of the screws holding up the plastics are really tight so make sure to have a good selection of screwdrivers bits. Other than that 7mm, 8mm, 10mm and 13mm sockets are needed for the job.
Works great now, feels a bit odd at first to have the steering wheel so much closer to me but I'm sure I'll get used to it quickly
Took approx 3-4 hours to do.
Last edited by katar83; 08-19-2018 at 04:02 PM.
The following 7 users liked this post by katar83:
b1mcp (08-19-2018),
JimC64 (08-19-2018),
Mark Murphy (08-25-2018),
Scotlad (08-19-2018),
SleekJag12 (08-22-2018),
and 2 others liked this post.
#4
I think the first two times I removed this cable I basically did it the same way you did. However, as many times going to a pull and pay just to pull the motor and cross my fingers that the cable is untouched, I can now remove the motor and cable without dropping the column. Stainless steel? Now, where did you get that?
The following users liked this post:
BobinVA (09-02-2018)
#5
Parts assembled
Parts disassembled showing old grease
Steering motor and reach cable, links to old posts
If I am wrong in my description please correct me.
I was having the same noise that al_roethlisberger was having in his steering column.Link here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...adjust-146960/So I bought the “cable insert” from Terry’s Jaguar Parts in Kalamazoo, MI on Ebay for $35.00I dropped the knee panel and the AC duct and took a look around and realized my setup did not correspond to any descriptions I found on this forum which is great.. There was a good thread on the same issue started by razorboyLlink here, https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-motor-113283/ motorcarman had some great insights on the issue and cable replacements.Sad part nobody in those threads posted any pictures, so here are mine in my situation.On my 1995 Vanden Plas there is NO Reach cable. My car must have been upgraded because between the reach motor and the steering wheel, there is a two part plastic component exactly where the reach cable is located. On the reach motor in my first picture you see a white round cylindrical part that surrounds a separate black round part that attaches to the steering column, in the second picture shows where they are pulled apart. They are squared on two sides with flutes in between.I had to remove two hex head screws to drop the motor and pull the shaft off the smaller black shaft to the column. Did not disconnect any wiring, just let it hang. There was old grease that had dried on the inside of these two parts. I cleaned off that old grease and coated the parts with similar grease I had on hand, IBM #23. I then looked up under the cover plate that covers the turn signal, wiper arm and key switch and could see the pivot points for the tilt and extension. I hit those with a tiny shot of WD40 and reassembled everything.Put the key in and total silence, could hardly hear the wheel reset to driving position.Kudos to Al, razorboy and motorcaman for helping with this issue.I hope this helps other guys, before you spend the money on the reach cable, drop that knee panel and see if you have the same situation as I have. It could save you 35 bucks. Cheers, Bob
#6
The following 2 users liked this post by Keesh:
BobinVA (09-02-2018),
SleekJag12 (09-02-2018)
#7
TILT versus REACH
Hi Bob in Virginia,
I believe what you are talking about in your post is the TILT (up and down) motor and shaft. That assembly has no cable, just the rotating sleeve mechanism you show in the pictures. It is on the bottom of the steering column assembly. The REACH (in and out) motor and cable is on the upper part of the column, and was the original subject of this thread. In the figure, part #3 is the Tilt motor assembly, and part #4 is the Reach motor assembly.
Thanks for the links to the old threads, there is some good information and helpful hints for replacing that pesky reach cable.
I believe what you are talking about in your post is the TILT (up and down) motor and shaft. That assembly has no cable, just the rotating sleeve mechanism you show in the pictures. It is on the bottom of the steering column assembly. The REACH (in and out) motor and cable is on the upper part of the column, and was the original subject of this thread. In the figure, part #3 is the Tilt motor assembly, and part #4 is the Reach motor assembly.
Thanks for the links to the old threads, there is some good information and helpful hints for replacing that pesky reach cable.
The following users liked this post:
BobinVA (09-02-2018)
Trending Topics
#8
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
griffplus
XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 )
51
03-06-2024 09:35 AM
Anthony8858
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
1
09-05-2016 10:48 AM
xkse
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
7
04-04-2013 12:18 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)