My throttle pedal seems to have a lot of travel before it starts to work is this normal? If not where is the adjustment for it inside the car or under the hood..

Thanks

 

Yes.

If you go to the traction control unit and follow the cables back along the firewall you'll see that each one has an adjustment barrel.

It would take longer for me to explain how to unlock and turn the adjusters than for you to go out to the car and do the job...it's perfectly intuitive :-)

I'll wager there's an office adjustment measurement or procedure. Me? I just carefully snug up the adjustment on the cables until free play is almost gone <shrug>. You know you've gone too far on the throttle body cable if the engine speed increases :-)

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug I can't go outside I'm afraid I which that was posible but the car is in storage right now and I'm putting together a too do list for the spring when I bring it home for the summer. This is one of many little jobs I want to get done this year. Now where is the Traction control located on the firewall please? That;s another problem I'm having I think you answered me a while back about the traction control showing OFF that someone may have taken out the lights that come on when the key comes on and you are right no bulbs so I need to check or replace the traction control unit. Therefore I thought I'd ask you..

Thanks a lot..

Bill

 

The trac control unit is on the right side inner fender structure. It's basically cylindrical....you'll see it and the two cables just ahead of the anti-lock brake unit.

Cheers
DD

 

Here is the Tracs adjustment procedure for the X300. Enjoy!

Cheers,

 

Thanks everyone for all the help on this one

 

I know this is an older thread, but the attachment from the service manual (which is VERY helpful) mentions as the last step to:

"– Adjust the transmission kick down switch."







Are there specs/instructions on that last step to adjust that kick down switch properly?

.

 

Is that the black plastic bloc under the accelerator pedal?

 

Not that I recall but I'll check later tonight when I'm next to my books.

The button/switch simply screws inward/outward. If you adjust it out too far you'll actually restrict full travel of the throttle pedal. Adjust it inward too far and the kickdown shift will come very late and only after throwing all your body weight into your right leg

Make sure trace the wires back to the connector and disconnect before making the adjustment

cheers
DD

 

Hi Al,

I haven't been able to find any detailed instructions, but my assumption is that the kickdown switch should be fully depressed at the same moment when the throttle butterfly valve/accelerator cable cam contacts its stop screw.

If the kickdown switch is fully depressed before the cam comes to the stop, you can't achieve WOT.

If the cam contacts the stop before the kickdown switch is fully depressed, you won't get kickdown and you risk further stretching the accelerator cable by trying.

If my logic is flawed I would welcome correction.

Cheers,

Don

 

I agree.

From memory, as it's been a few years since I messed about with mine, the switch has about a half-inch travel. So, yes, you want to adjust the switch so that it bottoms out simultaneous to achieving WOT.....limit screw against the stop. This way you have full throttle opening and your kickdown operates just shy of full throttle.

Cheers
DD

 

That is correct. Here is a bulletin that might help. Ignore the subject of the bulletin, but pay attention to the last page. It describes how to set the switch on an X308. The procedure applies very well to the X300. The X300 was normally fitted with the long stop stud, and over the years I have had to modify numerous cars with a shorter one to get the throttle right. The listed parts are no longer available, so any modification requires you fabricate parts. I use a bolt of an appropriate length, cut off the head, and use a couple of thin nuts [tightened together at the right point, as jamnuts] to fabricate a stop stud.

You'll be amazed how much better the car drives when the throttle is pulling 100% correctly, and the forced downshift happens when it is supposed to.

Good luck!

 

You didn't attach the bulletin !

Cheers
DD

 

Never mind. I see it. I'm a dumb ***!

Cheers
DD

 

Hey Doug, I see you had the same question a few years ago that I just thought about when reading the instructions above.

What does the following mean?

I see you asked the same question in 2011 here:

JCNA Forums - Jaguar Clubs of North America


It was mentioned that another set of instructions was modified to explain that statement, but that link is now dead.

Can anyone explain this step?


In the meantime I adjusted my cables by "feel" tonight and it definitely did help a lot, but I have two concerns/observations afterwards:

1) When "flooring" the accelerator, I get a quick hesitation, then the power comes on. It's like it isn't providing fuel.

2) I unscrewed the cables quite a bit, and it concerns me that the cables may not have much adjustment left. To the points made elsewhere, I wonder if these cables stretch over time?


And on that note (2), does anyone know of a source for new cables if they are indeed stretching?


.

 

Here you go, Al. Attached is the document I amended for Doug over on JCNA. For some reason I still can't get that link fixed.
Between this and the bulletin posted above, you should have what you need to get your throttle setup properly.

Good luck!

 

Steve, I didn't know that you were 'that' Steve!

Cheers
DD

 

Man you guys are the best! That's what I call "fast service"

Anyway, even though I did a "quick and dirty, by feel" adjustment in about ten minutes just judging my success by idle RPM, the difference is night/day. The car drives completely differently, and now gets up and goes.

It feels like there is still a little bit of play in the accelerator pedal, maybe a 1/4" or less before anything happens (not sure if that is normal or not), but that is a huge improvement. So I may have a little more opportunity to adjust some more slack, but not much I'm thinking.

Something else that benefits is general pedal feel. I had posted in another thread that I thought the XJ accelerator pedal felt too small and had poor "feel". Well, I still think the pedal is too small .... and the area around it too crowded to some degree.... but along with just getting acclimated to the pedal geometry of this car, adjusting the cables has significantly improved the pedal feel.... significantly

.

 

Ummm!.........
I'm not sure just how I should take 'that'........ Is that a good thing or bad??

Cheers,