Remove BPM with the large round button on the arrow in the pic with a butter knife to get started and a trim removal tool to finish pulling the button out
slides down out of carrier rack
You may not be able to get the trim tool in there with the glove compartment in place
The BPM connector is the one on the cars right side as the BPM is mounted
It has 2 pinch release tabs on the long edge of the ribbon connector , The connector has plenty of wire length
The way the not in park switch works is when you move the shift lever out of the park gate the switch closes so its a normal ( relaxed ) closed or NC switch
Back in the gate switch opens , switch depressed
Now to look if it can be checked at the large connector under the arrow saving you some work
Yes , it can be checked at the large connector on the removed loose connector end
So no need to bother the BPM
Remove battery positive cable
Move the shift lever out of park detent and hunt down the connector sockets until you find a closed meter reading ( I used the engine ECU ground strap bolt for a ground point to clamp on )
Once you find a closed circuit move the shift lever back into park detent and watch meter reading open
The way the not in park switch works is when you move the shift lever out of the park gate the switch closes so its a normal ( relaxed ) closed or NC switch
There is no way that you could have connected the switch wires backwards because it doesn't make a difference or physically installed the switch package with the lever in the wrong orientation
So this leaves the type of switch NC or NO which can be stamped on the switch but not always or hidden from view
I won't be double checking my meter findings until morning
The switch I found could be wired either way, It has 3 blades on it , I wired it in the closed pos when in Park., It may be a couple days before i can go back and fix it
I frogot about the 3 blade version , lets revisit it after
I forgot about the 3 blade version , lets revisit again after I recheck my meter readings with the original switch installed in a working X300 starter system
Ok, Changed wiring on Not in Park switch , In park I have 12v on blue wire on one side of switch nothing on black wire, Shift out of park no longer have voltage on blue wire, Have to get back to work check back later
The blue feeler voltage goes to 0 since it has a ground path through the closed switch to the car frame , at this path the circuit is ground seeking and has satisfied that
The term not in park switch in the electrical language could be and most likely when the shift lever is not in park the switch makes or closes
We are use to our airliner schematics being drawn in the switches relaxed position as a reference point and then have to determine how it works as a activated system
Automotive doesn't seem to have a set of rules especially American cars
The BPM is the control center of the starter circuit , it must get all the agreements on the schematics prints left side before it will provide a command ground to close the starter solenoid relay
The BPM has the ribbon connectors on the back side , look for corrosion from the leaking climate control air ducts , I think if remembering correctly it slides down from the carrier after removing some screws
TPM ?
My BPM is exposed so let me put a meter on the Blue / Slate wire to the not in park switch ( on the left side of the below print ) to see how it behaves
You should be able to take the FC1 - 33 at the BPM Red / Orange wire ( on the right side of the print ) to car frame ground and the starter should engage and rotate but may not run the engine , this will prove the rotary position switch
It's dark now and the dark scares me
There is some confusion on how the not in park switch is integrated into the starter circuit let alone the lights
EDITING
Well, I jumped orange & red on FC! plug to ground heard a click and hum, Then I jumped the forth pin in on the plug as you look at the BPM it is a green wire heard some noise sounded like under the dash, plugged yellow connecter back in I now have no dash gages or warning lights on either side of the dash
Well, I jumped orange & red on FC! plug to ground heard a click and hum, Then I jumped the forth pin in on the plug as you look at the BPM it is a green wire heard some noise sounded like under the dash, plugged yellow connecter back in I now have no dash gages or warning lights on either side of the dash
"don't understand the green wire statement"
Looking at the diagram you see how the rows are offset? Well the plug is squared off so I found the orange and black wire on the plug but looking at the fig i realized the port you have circled is on the BPM, The wire on the plug that lined up with that port is green so I took that one to ground also.
It doesn't help that the BPM back has the 2 connectors labeled as FC2
The LHD and RHD has to do with the steering wheel as components have to move over to the other side and go through other connectors on the way
You probably blew one of the 2 fuses on the left heel board fuse box that powers the instrument cluster and you won't lose the milage value which is somehow kept
Ask me how I know
Looking to what socket 16 Green / Yellow wire goes to
OOOHHHHHH,We just made a huge advancement, I was checking fuses for instrument cluster, Saw a circuit for "Transmission Ignition Control" It was blown I changed it and it fired right up ,twice, I still have check eng light tho,
The CEL may just be a reset by a code reader at the auto parts store as they still do it if you have a light
Write down the code because I myself always forget
Yes it starts,,, Whoooo Hoooooo, But now the question is, Isn't one of the fans supposed to come on with key on? It was getting warm & blowing hot air out the dash, I saw top fan turn about 1/4 turn then stop,,,,, I bought this car in this condition so not overly familiar with it also steering column didn't go back into stow pos
To test the fans remove the 3 wire connector on the lower aft left on the radiator
Put a paper clip from 1 white wire to the black and you will get 1 mode
remove the clip and place between the other white wire and the same black wire and you will get the second mode
This is a low amperage section of the fans circuit so no arcing hazard
The steering column is either the in and out switch in the ignition switch stuck or the column motor position sensor gumming up dragging the motor down
