I dread asking this question but think it is worth a go : who would almost definitely commit to a set of AJ16 extractors if the numbers were there to get a small run made?
No, I don't have a price, so it is a very chicken-and-egg question and might very well go nowhere.. also I don't know shipping to various parts of the planet. But they would not be cheap.

They would be stainless, sand-filled when bent. I am asking V and A Spiteri in Melbourne if they could do a run. They haven't given me a reply as to a minimum number, but state they have never done AJ16 extractors because there has never been the demand. I think there may well be demand for 10-15 sets on this Forum..

Any firm interest?

 

I've got to ask; extractors for what ?

 

If the cost is comparable(maybe within 20%?) to a pair of new OEM exhaust manifolds then it may be attractive. After all, if one can even find new OEM manifolds, they are likely to crack again, so it's throwing good money after bad to buy OEM.

But I do think it would be tough to "commit" without knowing some ballpark estimate of cost. If you can get them to provide reasonable estimates based on quantity, that would help. Then also shipping estimates based on dimension/weight from Australia to major locations like USA and Europe.

At least one of my manifolds is likely cracked. I haven't pulled the secondary air injection and heat shield to check, but I can hear some "huffing" when the car first starts, which then goes away as it heats up. That is pretty classic cracked exhaust manifold symptoms. So in that sense, I'm likely interested, but again it depends on total cost.

I think I've seen some new OEM cast manifolds for around $400-500 each, so that's $800-1000 for the set if that provides any frame of reference.


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Not knowing the price yet but knowing that I have been through two sets of used exhaust manifolds all ready, I would definitely be interested, O2 and air pump fittings? shipping to Florida?

 

Did I not start a similar survey a few years ago? The search for OEM replacements is being revived (I saw at least two new threads recently) as exhaust manifolds in cast iron are no longer available no matter the price. I think the best option is to retain the shape of the OEM manifolds without messing up with the downpipes, upper cats and nearby hardware like the EGR, air injection pumps, heat shield..... Equal length, top-grade stainless steel, high performance headers are for the hot-blooded.

 

I agree, the most cost effective option would be to build more durable manifolds that replicate the OEM so they bolt right up to everything else downstream.

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A Header shop would have it somewhat easier having cracked examples to review,


AJ6 engineering in England has these for a AJ6 engine

 

I scrolled down one more page and guess what I found!!!!!!


I think that is them, I will inquire. Larry

 

Appreciate the enthusiasm Larry, but I suspect if AJ6 Engineering gets one more email about those headers.... they'll shoot someone!

AJ6 hasn't made those for years due to lack of interest

Yeah, for some reason they haven't updated their catalog in ages, and it seems that one new discoverer after another reaches out to them every few months and posts it to the forum.

But indeed, that is exactly the kind of product we need. Something simple, durable (moreso than OEM), reasonable performance gain if possible and bolts right up to the OEM downpipe/catalysts.

A header shop may indeed be able to take a cue from the OEM manifolds, and XJREngineer (Andy) has offered to provide the program file to CNC the manifold faces.

This has all been covered in the various header threads many times though, and so far no one has had the time or support to be able to design and produce them in quantity although there are some one-offs.


Now all that being said, AJ6 Engineering clearly had the design to make the "log" style manifolds above, so perhaps they would be interested in selling the plans to customers for DIY implementation, or maybe they'd consider a limited run if enough people committed? I don't know if anyone has asked them that, and perhaps someone should?

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I wrote them a few years ago, so I pursued elsewhere. I think they leave the picture on their site for a purpose. Over the years, they must have clocked sufficient enquiries to sense that there is a demand for the manifolds, but not sufficiently large to revive production. I think if we say we can put done money for a set of ten, or ask AJ6 to name a price to license their design to earmark a named workshop to produce them, then they would not mind receiving another enquiry email.

 

Please see my post at the bottom of this thread . This approach can be a complete failure but I have to give it a try before committing to a removal and weld repair and possible warping failure . Any suggestions would be appreciated for I have not completed the final layup and it as a solution may help others with their decision point and keep more X300's on the road. I do respect someone committing to a full unit casting or tubular build up with better gas flow but there may be a way to make a external casting cap ( dependent on cylinder position ) beyond my tire spoke holding a patch approach . The critical aspect being the original casting crack / repair material interface product and if a stop drill hole will mitigate the the crack propagation . The linear thermo expansion coefficients of the repair materials vs. grade G4000 cast iron value 6.3 of 10-6 in./in.*/°F is of concern to me if the repair would delaminate and leak beyond the other exhaust pressure concerns . My brain hurts now , the spokes of the wheel go round and round .

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...shield-185033/

 

Welding or other attempted fixes with the manifolds in place would probably defer the problem till later. There is still a need for a more permanent-fix. Removal and reinstall are a lot of work and not an easy task, the downpipes need to be disconnected in the process, and all these would be a huge challenge to the DIYer.

 

How difficult is it to remove and replace the exhaust manifolds? Any step by step directions by someone who has done it?

I have a donor car that I might have to use someday. Besides new exhaust manifold gaskets, are there any other parts required for a swap?

 

Just a thought, it could be worth contacting Swallows Jaguar in the UK. I know they race a couple of XJR6s and have made tubular exhaust manifolds for them. A bulk order might be something they're interested in?

Link: https://www.swallows-jag.co.uk/motorsport

 

Steps are sort of straight-forward but it is real hard to do. You need to access the nuts and bolts from above and below, and you wish you had the right tools and physical strength to loosen and re-tighten them, bearing in mind they may not have been touched a long time, or were poorly reinstalled. So be prepared for surprises along the way.

Also while your are there, you will also disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust manifolds, so there are many more nuts and bolts to remove, and you need the clearance to take them out, so you would have to tackle the bottom links to the floor pipes.... Should I go on?

As for other parts, you may need

Long story short, you will want to bite the bullet and get this done once and for all by the professionals. Of all parts listed, the manifolds are the most expensive but they are unlikely available any more.

 

The potential market for racing grade exhaust manifolds is even smaller and will likely involve major modifications (and hence higher costs) to the rest of the exhaust system to justify the upgrade, so it is unrealistic to think of a group buy in this instance. A more durable OEM replacement is what will appeal to most X300 users.

 

I wasn't implying that a full racing system be used - just that they are a company that are experienced with these cars. It would be perfectly possible for such a firm to make a direct bolt in replacement.

 

The aft inboard nut on the manifold to downpipe connection can be removed with the trick of not inserting the 15 mm deep socket fully into the ratchet extension . Just enough to give you a bite to give you the 15 degree offset you need . Spray with some penetrating oil beforehand for they can be hard to break loose . I had to cut off the aft portion of the downpipe with a cut off disk in a drill at the clamp for it was frozen .

 

Hello to All, I have counted and there is six of us so far and three companies to suggest the work to. Can all suggest that the Senior member who started this thread, write to the three companies with our request and see what comes back? Any other next move needed?