Hi Everyone, The crank damper has failed on my '95 XJR6 with the alternator / water pump pulley rim moving relative to the hub due to the rubber failing.
Does anyone know where I could get it rebuilt? I live in the north west UK.
Is there a difference in the n/a and s/c units, ie do they all have the correct face and holes to mount the supercharger pulley to the front?
I suspect it will be hard to get off, so I will need to take out the radiator and AC condenser for access, and the job will expand to include overdue hose replacement and possible intercooler radiator upgrade. As the AC has been broken for years, I might remove that for extra space, although it does do a good job of protecting the radiator!
Any advice appreciated, as a start I plan to make a tool to bolt in place of the SC pulley to hold the crank still whilst I use an impact gun or large bar on the central bolt.
Regards,
John

 

The pulley can be removed with the radiator and condenser in situ. There is a method to undo the bolt involving a socket and length of bar and the starter motor with the fuel pump relay removed. A very judicious “bump” of starter once the tension is on the bar does the trick. Not for the feint hearted, and strictly forbidden obviously, but having read about it online, it did work.

 

Word of caution

Someone broke off a 2nd tooth off the CKPS 1 missing tooth ring gear

 

G'day John,

If you use the starter to bump the bolt undone make sure you remove the IGN fuse or relay so the engine doesn't start and cause you real grief.

I used this method on my V12 and it worked a treat. I zip tied the breaker bar to the undercarriege somewhere.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Thanks Gents, I recently tried this method with my MX5 (Its my daily driver & I've just replaced a cracked cylinder head). A bit worrying and not successful in that case, although not to say that it can't work and save some effort. That said I expect to need a puller, which I plan to attach via the bolt holes for the SC pulley, and need to replace some hoses anyway - I'm hoping that the lower radiator hose might be easier to access with the radiator out too. I feel like it will turn into a big job whether I want it to or not! Main concern is sourcing a repair or replacement at sensible cost

 

I broke my breaker bar trying it with the starter method. Purchased a "NitroCat 1200" pneumatic impact tool and zipped it off with no problem. No holding of the crank nor pulley necessary.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roject-100618/

 

Before selling Rose (my XJR), I replaced my crank damper (also known by some as Harmonic Balancer) with one rebuilt by Dale Manufacturing in the US. The removal and re-installation was done by a professional muffler workshop which has all the tools and skills needed. However, I still had to find them a socket of the right size that matches the big nut outside the crankshaft - it is a 1 and 5/16" socket, and the workshop used a long bar to help unlock the nut, and as a precaution to breaking anything while using brute force in that narrow space, they protected the inner side of the radiator by placing a wooden board in between.

 

Thank you, Good to know, I will look to purchase a 1 & 5/6" socket - it is odd that its an imperial size when the rest of the car is metric, but don't doubt it. I have a 3/4" breaker bar I bought for the Mazda and also an electric impact gun which is supposed to generate 420 ft.lb, which will come in useful. I still hope to find someone local who can rebuild the damper as a priority before I get started and immobilise the car in my workspace, as got a few smaller jobs lined up on the other cars I need to get out of the way first.

 

It is an 1 and 5/16” - see picture attached.