That's impressive. The new inspection holes make troubleshooting so much easier.

It would have a been a shame to scrap the vehicle - looks way too good for that.

Graham

 

Add a glass top to that engine and you'll have a very cool coffee table with a story...

 

Yeah, I was letting the girl who watches my kids drive it and she didn't watch the oil level well enough. Of course I should have fixed the oil leaks, I'm ordering gaskets for the new engine.

 

I don't like seeing cars go to the boneyard. You could replace the engine for a small fraction of what a brand new Jag would cost. Call me a super conservative. I'd rather put my money in the market than keep buying brand new cars. I'd fix what I have, IMHO.

 

Hi all, I'm ordering all of the bits and pieces I need for the new engine intake and exhaust manifold gaskets etc. I'm curious if you folks think I should pull the pan on the new engine 80,000 miles and put new gaskets on the lower end or am I more likely to create leaks that weren't there in the first place.
I want the new engine to not leak at all, and I'm hoping your sage like wisdom can help me out here.
Thanks all.
John

 

Hi John,

My personal opinion is that at 80,000 miles and 20+ years it would be prudent to change the oil pan gasket, front and rear crankshaft oil seals, the intermediate shaft oil seal, the oil galley plug O-rings and washers, all the seals and gaskets on the oil filter housing/cooler pipes/bypass pipe, the dipstick tube sleeve, and consider replacing the knock sensors and oil pressure sender if you can find new ones at a good price. since it will never be easier to replace them. I'm sure I've forgotten something - hopefully others will remember.

Cheers,

Don

 

I was having the same thought, but the only source for those gaskets that I have found is JagBits.com, and those lower gaskets will cost almost as much as the replacement engine . Are there any other sources you guys might recommend for those pieces?

 

Shop all of our forum sponsors, including Jagbits, Welsh Enterprises, SNG Barratt, and Coventry West, and also check Rock Auto, PartsGeek, FCP Euro, and jaguarmerriamparts.com. For some of the gaskets you may find OEM and aftermarket options that are much less expensive than Jaguar-branded parts.

You can look up part numbers at jaguarlandroverclassic.com.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don,
I appreciate the advice, which now seems completely logical.
John

 

That's a great example of a catastrophic failure! If you have a car with "special needs" never lend it to anyone. They will never check any fluid levels. Most non enthusiasts are not aware that older cars need to have fluid levels checked at every fuel fill up. All of my older cars use oil, usually a quart per thousand miles. If you get the oil changed every 3,000 miles, you'll be three quarts low before you have the oil changed.I had an old F250 pick up that would use a quart of oil every fifty miles! It didn't even smoke noticeably under normal driving ( no, it wasn't leaking on the ground, it would have looked like the Exxon Valdez!) On a round trip up to Santa Rosa to buy a replacement engine for the truck, I used five quarts of oil! I stopped and added a quart every fifty miles. Nobody else would do that. If I would have lent that truck to anyone they would have burned or blown the engine before they realized ( or cared!) that they had run low on oil.

 

Check the drain plug. The oil sump (pan) threads are frequently stripped cauing an oil drip from otherwise dry engines and it's a huge amount of work to replace once the engine is fitted.





I was lucky to get the replacement without having to take a full or half engine.

Graham