XJR Back from Paint Shop
#21
#22
Looking good. What's next is more of the same, almost. Use 2000 grit emery paper to rub down the primer. You'll feel a big difference before and after. Rub down the primer after sanding, preferably with a tac cloth. It's a slightly tacky cloth you'll get in packs from your auto parts supplier. Wipe down surrounding areas also. You will have to ensure that there is no lip between the edge of the primer and the existing paintwork, so some more rubbing.
When masking for the finish paint, it's a good idea to mask back a bit further than needed, so that you have room to feather the new paint off, before it meets the masking, thus causing a lip again.
Get you matching paint in rattle can, shake well and apply in a clean, dust free, low humidity environment. If it's a little bit warm, all the better.
Apply paint in very light coats, just a mist, so much so that the first few coats will hardly be noticed. Remember, you're covering grey with white.
Repeat the process, allowing the paint to dry between coats and don't be afraid to rub down any imperfections between coats. If not, they are there for life and affect the paint that follows.
After each coat, invert the spray can and spray through, until air comes through. This clears the nozzle/jet and prevents blockages and spatter.
Keep repeating until you are happy with the results and be patient. Not a job to rush.
Leave the finished paint for a day or two before rubbing down/buffing. You may need to rub down lightly with 2000 grit wet and dry emery paper, used wet. This will create a nice smooth finish. Don't worry if this removes the sheen from the paint as the lacquer will help.
Apply a few coats of clear lacquer, as above, making sure everything is clean and dry beforehand. The biggest key to success is to Take Your Time. However long or short the job takes, it will be there for life!!
Keep us posted and when are you opening for business?
When masking for the finish paint, it's a good idea to mask back a bit further than needed, so that you have room to feather the new paint off, before it meets the masking, thus causing a lip again.
Get you matching paint in rattle can, shake well and apply in a clean, dust free, low humidity environment. If it's a little bit warm, all the better.
Apply paint in very light coats, just a mist, so much so that the first few coats will hardly be noticed. Remember, you're covering grey with white.
Repeat the process, allowing the paint to dry between coats and don't be afraid to rub down any imperfections between coats. If not, they are there for life and affect the paint that follows.
After each coat, invert the spray can and spray through, until air comes through. This clears the nozzle/jet and prevents blockages and spatter.
Keep repeating until you are happy with the results and be patient. Not a job to rush.
Leave the finished paint for a day or two before rubbing down/buffing. You may need to rub down lightly with 2000 grit wet and dry emery paper, used wet. This will create a nice smooth finish. Don't worry if this removes the sheen from the paint as the lacquer will help.
Apply a few coats of clear lacquer, as above, making sure everything is clean and dry beforehand. The biggest key to success is to Take Your Time. However long or short the job takes, it will be there for life!!
Keep us posted and when are you opening for business?
The following users liked this post:
BigBossRadio (03-28-2014)
#23
Hi Sogood
I wet sanded each panel after preping and priming and decided to paint each panel fully. It turned out ok. Now I will need to wet sand with 1500/2000 grit. to make sure everything is nice and smooth, clear coat buff and wax. So we will see how things workout
See pics attached
BbigBoss in Dallas TX
I wet sanded each panel after preping and priming and decided to paint each panel fully. It turned out ok. Now I will need to wet sand with 1500/2000 grit. to make sure everything is nice and smooth, clear coat buff and wax. So we will see how things workout
See pics attached
BbigBoss in Dallas TX
#24
Great job and well done! I notice your car doesn't seem to have a pinstipe/coachline along its' length. Is this so? if so, was this the original spec? I can't recollect if this is normal, maybe others will chime in.
I personally like the stripe as it adds length and a certain elegance, to what is, quite a long car.
I personally like the stripe as it adds length and a certain elegance, to what is, quite a long car.
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BigBossRadio (03-29-2014)
#25
Hi Sogood
I'm not sure about what pinstripe you are referring too? I have never noticed one.. Perhaps it was placed along the line that runs along the side panels. I'd love to hear more. Now I have to tackle the front suspension and bushings so I will be digging for lots of advice and guidance I begin. If you have any info you can share I'd love to hear from you.
BigBoss in Dallas TX
I'm not sure about what pinstripe you are referring too? I have never noticed one.. Perhaps it was placed along the line that runs along the side panels. I'd love to hear more. Now I have to tackle the front suspension and bushings so I will be digging for lots of advice and guidance I begin. If you have any info you can share I'd love to hear from you.
BigBoss in Dallas TX
#26
I haven't done the front suspension on my car as the front shocks were done not too long before I got it, so I can't be a lot of help in that regard. But be thankful that the fronts are apparently quite easy, especially when compared to doing the rears, which I had the pleasure of replacing just before Christmas.
Others with experience of doing the fronts will no doubt, chime in.
As for the coachline/pinstripe I mentioned, see attached pic showing same on my car. Maybe they aren't standard in your part of the world, but I like them.
It seems to be painted on, but similar stripes are available in auto factors/parts stores and are easy to apply. The stripe is part of a very thin clear film and simply sticks in place after peeling off the backing paper.
Others with experience of doing the fronts will no doubt, chime in.
As for the coachline/pinstripe I mentioned, see attached pic showing same on my car. Maybe they aren't standard in your part of the world, but I like them.
It seems to be painted on, but similar stripes are available in auto factors/parts stores and are easy to apply. The stripe is part of a very thin clear film and simply sticks in place after peeling off the backing paper.
The following users liked this post:
BigBossRadio (03-29-2014)
#27
Hi 95XJRBLACK
Just to follow up, I fixed my front bumper as per the repair pix..... I'm now working on the serious front LHS panel dent........ I know I'm not going to get the line perfect but close enough that I can live with it, see attached pics...... It's getting ready for primer.... and paint
BigBossRadio in Dallas, TX
Just to follow up, I fixed my front bumper as per the repair pix..... I'm now working on the serious front LHS panel dent........ I know I'm not going to get the line perfect but close enough that I can live with it, see attached pics...... It's getting ready for primer.... and paint
BigBossRadio in Dallas, TX
#28
Hi 95XJRBLACK
.
Yes I bought a Hammer and Dolly kit for $25 at HF and removed each panel. Then slowly tapped out the dent from behind. it took a while . Once I got it back into shape as best I could, I ground to the metal. Then sanded out from there and applied bondo to even out any minor bumps and scratches sanded down . Applied etch primer sanded some more and primed and painted each panel.
BigBoss in dallas
.
Yes I bought a Hammer and Dolly kit for $25 at HF and removed each panel. Then slowly tapped out the dent from behind. it took a while . Once I got it back into shape as best I could, I ground to the metal. Then sanded out from there and applied bondo to even out any minor bumps and scratches sanded down . Applied etch primer sanded some more and primed and painted each panel.
BigBoss in dallas
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