You have a lot more courage than I would have given the circumstances.

 

I just used a 3/4" head (19mm) bolt with a nut threaded on/welded to use as a removal tool for the LARGE hex bleeder plug on the top of the supercharger.

The 1998 XJR was issued and nobody in the dealer had a hex socket that big.

We just made our own tools.

 

Ordered a set of hex sockets, should be in today.

Got the car home this morning, was a bit chilly at -5F, but it fired right up more willingly than my pickup did at first. In the garage now, waiting for me to have time to dig in and the temps to come up a bit outside. Hopefully I can get the failed pump off and confirm that its just random bad luck and I got a bad one out of the box.

Assuming for now that this is a bad pump, are there any recommendations to seek or avoid in another? I believe the newer design pumps are 2 piece castings and obviously I want a metal impeller. It also seems that the 2 piece pumps don't use a rubber gasket on the impeller, but the one piece pumps do?

 

Also, I managed to break off the locking tab on the right side electric fan connector while doing the water pump. Anyone know the correct part I should get to fix this?

This is what it looks like now, still fits in securely but it could fall out without a latching thing.



Here's the one for the left side fan, still intact.

 

Man those plugs are tough to find mainly because there are so many variations. Don't know if this will help but I have spent hours trying to match up plugs. It's most likely a Motorcraft connector from the days when Ford owned Jaguar.

This is 56 pages and the sections are divided by the number of connectors in the plug AND it has pictures of ALL of them! Most places selling these don't have decent pictures and you just can't tell if it's the right one or not!

One request?
If you do find the right one post back with the part number to help the next guy.
.
.
.

 

On Page 18 of the X300 guide it shows that connector as
Econoseal 3 HC

 

So, good news, weird news.

Drained the coolant, pulled off the pump again. Still won't turn. Must be bad, right? Well maybe not. One of the bolts that holds the pulley to the pump made contact with the pump housing and dug into it and caused it to stop spinning, at which time all three bolts sheared off. Once I removed that bolt remnant, the pump seems to spin freely. Kind of feel like I'm missing something here, why would these bolts be too long, long enough to actually make contact with the pump...and why after running for a long time and not right when I first started it in the garage? I guess I can use some washers on the new bolts to make sure they don't go too far in, but this is just really weird.

I did set the new and old pumps side by side and they look virtually identical in that part. Thickness of the mounting plate, distance to the pump housing, etc. Any thoughts?

I guess I can just reassemble everything with some washers, I'll dry fit it on the bench first and then put it back on the car, pump seems undamaged but should I just get another one and send this back to be safe? I also seem to have lost half of the hex on one of the pump mounting bolts, so I'll need to find one of those as well. If anyone knows the size, I'd be grateful, otherwise I'll contact the usual places like Welsh.

 

That does sound strange. I can't recall, did you reuse the original pulley on the new pump? just wondering if that's a new part & a different thickness too.

I'd be going for a new pump myself if possible, that must be a hell of a shock loading on it's shaft so I'd be worried about it being left weak along with the bearings/bearing seats etc all being possibly weakened by it too.

 

Yeah, get another pump. It’s definitely compromised. I’d go to Ace Hardware and pick up some grade 8 bolts with lock washers for piece of mind.

 

Yes, as A2B said....a new pump is the wisest course.

 

Got a new Beck/Arnley on the way. Currently in Canada on business, but it'll be waiting for me when I get home.

I'll see about matching the mounting bolt at the hardware store and use some washers to make sure the pulley bolts clear the housing properly. Yes Hooli, I did reuse the original pulley.

Hopefully this is the extent of the issue and I don't have any failed seals or hoses and hopefully my head gaskets weren't compromised. Won't know until I check the oil and pressurize the system.

Thanks!

 

The pump uses M6 x 1.0mm short bolts with 8mm hex heads.
I have never seen anyone not reuse the original 3 bolts.

Bolts that are too long will interfere with the pump housing.

I guess you can throw a bunch of bolts into a container and just use the wrong ones?

Grade 8.8 metric bolts are fine for the pulley.

 

Back from my work trip to Canada last night, installed my new water pump today with new bolts I was able to get at the hardware store, ditto the pump pulley bolts which I verified will not stick out through the pump, thus avoiding a repeat failure.

Filled the coolant, bled it, think it's good. Supercharger idler pulley bearing is sketchy so I opted to keep all the supercharger belt and pulleys off and just use the accessory belt. Fired up just fine, started steam8ng which I expected as there was coolant everywhere when the pump comes out.

But it didn't stop steaming as it warmed up, suggesting i have a leak somewhere. It's cooling off now so I can check it later or maybe tomorrow. Concerned that I may have a head gasket issue, but that would probably be combusting coolant, not evaporating it on the outside. The new pump didn't have a rubber o-ring, just a metal gasket and there was an old o-ring that was broken when I took out the Delco pump. Diagrams and descriptions online seem to suggest the newer style 2 piece pumps with the metal impellers do not need a gasket. The o-ring is pulled out was not the one attached to the impeller of the Delco pump, so I assume i did a lousy job cleaning it up when I took the original pump out. Is there an o-ring that's supposed to sit in the impeller hole in the block and maybe I'm lucky and this is just my ignorance and maybe the pump is my leak?

Engine is mak8ng an almost moaning sound when warm
Kind of like a bad pulley or power steering pump. i took the brlt back off and started it, it continues to do it so I might have a problem with the innards. No clue what this may be

 

Changed the title of the thread.

 

This is the o-ring that came out with the Delco pump. I presume it was original to the old pump.


This was after the Delco pump came out. That crud seems very hard, a pick scrape didn't do much to it so I toweled it "clean" and installed the new pump. Maybe I need to do a better job on this?

 

I know this is a little bit late but, you can use some extra fine steel wool on those surfaces to clean them up also. Brake cleaner on a clean rag following is advised prior to reassembly.

 

Pulled the pulley off last night to see if there was any obvious leakage, saw none. So my plan is tonight I'll try to clean up the front of the engine from the years of grease/oil/coolant and whatever else gathers under the hood, remove the cooling fans and reconnect the serpentine belt to run all the accessories, get it up on ramps with a fan blowing on the radiator and just wait for coolant to start accumulating and see if I can follow it to a source. I wouldn't be surprised if something started to give out when the temp gauge redlined as I did have steam at the front of the engine at that time...its seems less likely to me that it might be accumulated spillage, but I can't rule it out I suppose...with the cooling system I think a bit of overcaution is preferable. I don't have a lot accumulating on the floor, it seems to be almost all evaporating...hoping its not a line under the supercharger or the radiator.

 

Cleaned it up on the front of the motor...LOTS of greasy deposits, couldn't get it all off with Gunk spray, toothbrush and paper towels, needs a proper scrubbing and rinse. But, objective accomplished. Cleaned, reconnected pulley and serpentine belt, started and ran for about 20 minutes. No steam, no temp spikes, hot air out the vents in the cabin, water pump seems to be holding and I don't think I have any coolant leaks.

But...and isn't there always a "but" with these things? But I did find that my oil cooler lines have some pretty significant leakage at the rubber to metal piping joints, so I'll have to source a pair of those plus o-rings. They've been oily, greasy all along, but now I'm seeing oil accumulating while the engine is idling, so its time to address this before I lose a hose on the highway and spray oil all over the place and seize up the engine.

Lastly (maybe), I've still got something thats rotating on the accessory belt on the right side that's making a squealing/moaning noise. Its definitely from that side and I removed the belt and started it and no noise. The idler pulley there is new, water pump is new...all that I think is left is the alternator, right? Crankshaft pulley turns with the motor, so the only other rotating thing on the belt there is the alternator. I tested the voltage, I've got 14.2V at the battery at idle, fully warmed up, so its still putting out enough to keep the car charged and running, but not the 14.7 I expected. I believe its a bear to change, is it not? Any suggestions for further testing before I buy an alternator and have at it? Anything else that "should" be done while doing the alternator?

 

Also, if anyone has them, looking for new bearings to press into my supercharger idler and tensioner pullies.

 

I would suggest 'remanufacturing' the lines by replacing the rubber hose sections.
Hydraulic hose repair shops can build new parts from the pipes and new 'O'rings installed.

I keep an old set of pipes/hoses for my XKRs (set of four) but there are two for the sedans. (less hose crimping)

I have no idea if the parts are NLA from the dealer?
MNC7460AF and MNC7461AF
Parts are becoming less available.