Hi guys:
does anyone know the rough cost to replace a fuel pump on a 2002 XJR? I'm about to replace both as one has failed and obviously both should be done due to the labor cost of just getting too them.
I'm in Vancouver Canada and my quoted cost all in is around $1700.00 cdn, I believe they are Delphi units.

Many thanks!!
Trevor

 

You'd be better off to do both pumps and pay the labor once, sounds like 5-6 hrs they are charging for. The cost for the 2nd pump is only around $85-150 Canadian your cost. How much are they charging for the pumps?

 

There are 3 methods of replacing the pumps.
1 Remove all the fuel/vapor lines and pull the tank into the boot area for EVAP flange access to the tank interior.

2 Cut a hole in the parcel tray area to access the EVAP flange and pumps.

3 Remove the tank straps and force the tank back far enough to access the EVAP flange but leave the fuel lines attached under the car.

I charge about 4 to 5 hours to replace the pumps and fuel filter.(I cannot count how many I have done in the 3+ decades since Jaguar put the pumps in the tank, dozens and dozens? XJ40 onward)
I have NEVER cut a hole in a customer car for the pump replacement.
I have NEVER dragged a tank back without removing the fuel lines from underneath.

If you decide that you are clever enough to 'beat-the-odds' of NOT damaging the fuel lines by dragging the tank back 'just enough' to get to the EVAP flange, then PLEASE do not cry to us that you damaged the NO LONGER AVAILABLE fuel lines and now you wish you had done things differently.(too many sob stories for me to care)

Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

 

$189ea CDN, figured their cost ea around $120

 

The # 2 fuel pump will not come on until 4000 RPM and off as it drops down through 3200 RPM

 

About once a year I remove the fuel pump relays on SuperCharged cars to manually 'power-up' the pumps by jumping 30/87 (3/5) relay connections.
If I do not hear the pumps running, I plan on a 'tank-out' pump(s) replacement.

I keep a few pumps in stock because of my 6 running Jaguar fleet.(3 sedans and 3 convertibles)

 

THIS is the God's honest truth. There is no way to drag the tank back and not damage the lines without disconnecting them at the bottom. The person who had my car before I bought it had replaced both pumps by dragging the tank back after finding there was no access from the interior (thankfully they didn't try to cut the parcel shelf). They kinked the lines and never noticed and I found it in the final steps of getting my LS swap to run. The way those lines are made (hard plastic covered with rubber) can make it hard to see where it gets kinked, but get kinked it most certainly will.

I bought used replacement lines from someone on eBay with apparent access to a salvage yard that seems to get a lot of Jaguars and he pulls these lines right away. They sell for $200 or so as good, used items. Take the time and do it right.

 

A so called real Delphi pump on Amazon is $60 US. Delphi is owned by Stellantis now (previously by GM, now Fiat Chrysler) and makes products in Pennsylvania, Ohio, Missouri and New Hampshire amongst elsewhere in the US and other countries. I state this because, copycat manufacturers in China are repopping these items like gummy bears, just like that one on Amazon, it literally says origin: China. The box looks identical, the product look identical, the quality of the material it's made from...not identical. Ask to see the box to know where it was made or you'll most likely be doing this again soon enough and verify their labor/product warranty.

You can go to delphiautoparts.com and ask them where they make these fuel pumps, it's possible they are made in China, but ask if there is a maker mark to verify authenticity. They have a "find my part" at the top of the site. A few minutes of CYA can save your pocket some mula and down time for your gal.

Off the Delphi site:

 

I agree with highorse, Delphi *used* to be quality components under GM ownership. My work colleague and I over Christmas/New Year’s break installed his rebuilt (by local machine shop) LM7 (LS) engine in his 99’ GMC truck. Stage 2 Texas Speed cam, ALL brand new sensors, coils, rebuilt injectors, just swap the engine harness and go. Went to start it for the first time at the end of day 3 and it would hiccup and cough then it started. If I shut it off and try to restart, it would just sporadically fire and then just crank and crank with a no start. Sometimes you’d have to wait until it’s stone cold then eventually it would fire. My first thought was timing and started looking into this and that which didn’t amount to anything. After a very long story short, the brand new Delphi camshaft position sensor was bad right out of the box from Autozone. I pulled his original 25 year old oily CPS out of his 319k mile engine and installed it in his new engine. So much fun with his truck intake manifold in the way. It immediately fired right up. The moral of the story is that Delphi is now the plague to me. If I were him I would’ve gotten ACDelco as my choice but, at the end of the day it’s not my money. We’ve also installed Delphi coils in several of our customers cars and over time they come back with the same issue. Denso will always be my personal favorite but, availability isn’t always there. Get a Denso fuel pump (even if you have to order it online and wait 3 days) and it will last you a very long time. Going back into something that you had done already is a serious pet peeve of mine. Buy once cry once.

 

Denso is always my personal choice.

 

To my mind, if you are going to keep the car, pay for a professional to do the job correctly (pull the tank, drain it, replace the pumps - both - install and bench test, replace key tubing with best available, replace the fuel filter, reinstall tank and pumps, test it, certify it). C$1700 is not excessive.

Now, if you are a pro, with adequate lifts, drains or waste storage, and don't mind gasoline running down your arm, go for it. Denso!

 

ehh

Thats about $1170 usd.

Denso pumps with socks and install kits are roughly $200 online. Add in another $15 in shop supplies (brake cleaner, shop towels, etc.) Add a reasonable mark up and we can call it $275 in parts.

I would put it at about 3.5 hours of labor. Lets say indy rate of $150 an hour. So call it $525 in labor.

$800 plus tax...call it 10%. $880 total. Adding in a filter may be another $100.

This feels a little high but not wildly so.

 

I remember being told by the local specialist when I had the pumps in my XJR done that the official Jag time for the work was 6 hrs. I've no doubt it can be done in less, as that's how all the mechanics in dealers earn their bonus right?

 

I still have the Jaguar warranty REPAIR TIME SEARCHER program on an old Windows XP computer.

Jaguar warranty time for an XJ8/R fuel pump replace is 1.8 hours.
Add .3 for diagnosis and .1 for drive-in-drive-out.
Also add .4 for fuel filter replace.

1.8+.3+.1+.4=2.6

We always used warranty time times time and a half for customer pay because warranty times are somewhat unrealistic.
2.6 X 1.5 = 3.9

I always charge between 4 and 5 hours because these are NOT new cars any longer.
Rust and dirt slow the procedure down.

Dealers charge more for customer pay because the factory will not pay much for warranty work and mechanics/service depts try to make up some lost revenue.

 

Just getting the buildup dug off from around the lines and the release clips inserted and broken free can take an hour (clean & spray ...clean & spray...repeat, repeat). If these had never been done, your talking 23 yrs of packed in buildup and in a salt and cinder applied snowy area.

 

At about US$1200, it seems a fair price. Stay clean, stay safe, pay a guy (or gal: the Checkered Flag tech who worked on my first X308, back in 2002, was a gal), who knows what they are doing. My Indy charges close to $200 per hour and charges every minute including the cleaning issues noted above.

The trouble is not many still are knowledgeable of these old girls.

 

This is the solution


A good mechanic that knows what he's doing would easily do that , pulling the tank is bad idea I had to access the wiring around the pump 3 times some wires needed replacement I can't imagine pulling the tank 3 times cutting inside the car to access the tank much better just remove the 2 seat and the rear cover done all the lines and tank obvious

 

Arrggggghhhhhh........my eyes !!!

 

The problem is that when a shop takes it upon itself to 'cut and damage' a customer car without permission, the shop opens itself up to a VERY EXPENSIVE LAWSUIT!!!!!!!!!!!

If the customer agrees to the invasive procedure, then you will likely be OK.

I personally have never been sued by a customer so I am careful about what I do to a car.

 

Indeed, if a garage did that to my car. Then they'd be replacing the car with an undamaged one.