Advice for New Brake Rotors?
When I bought my car 2 months ago I knew one of the first "items for attention" would be brakes all around. After researching a bit I've ordered Posi Quiet Ceramic pads due to the reviews I've read and now have questions about rotors. Since this is my daily driver, do I go with stock rotors instead of the drilled/slotted or does it really matter? I've seen some decent stock ones on
eBay made by Centric- who also is the mfg. of the Posi Quiet Ceramic pads I've ordered and drilled/slotted ones sold by Advance Brake Technology Performance Brake Rotors and Parts 139 N Maple St, ste. D Corona, CA 92880. Advance's have a 1 yr. warranty and look good but have been advised by my mechanic to steer clear of any mfg. in China. I called them and the said most all rotors sold in the US are cast in China but milled and finished here?. Any good advice on what to buy without shelling out a fortune? I figured anything that has a 1 yr. warranty in the parts business must be fairly reliable and will definitely be better than the warped ones I'm driving on now.
eBay made by Centric- who also is the mfg. of the Posi Quiet Ceramic pads I've ordered and drilled/slotted ones sold by Advance Brake Technology Performance Brake Rotors and Parts 139 N Maple St, ste. D Corona, CA 92880. Advance's have a 1 yr. warranty and look good but have been advised by my mechanic to steer clear of any mfg. in China. I called them and the said most all rotors sold in the US are cast in China but milled and finished here?. Any good advice on what to buy without shelling out a fortune? I figured anything that has a 1 yr. warranty in the parts business must be fairly reliable and will definitely be better than the warped ones I'm driving on now.
I got my disks and Akebono pads through Genuine & OEM European Car Parts | BMW Volvo Audi VW Mercedes Saab
Prices were good, and service was excellent
Prices were good, and service was excellent
HOW are you going to drive the car?? Lots of track time or daily driver? This you must answer first.
Just stay away from the slotted rotors because they make pfft pfft pfft noise, and cross drilled are well known to crack often.
Best to stick with flat discs.
If you really need more braking, first try proper ducting to the brakes (makes a huge difference), and if that is not enough, then go bigger.
LOVE my akebono pads
Just stay away from the slotted rotors because they make pfft pfft pfft noise, and cross drilled are well known to crack often.
Best to stick with flat discs.
If you really need more braking, first try proper ducting to the brakes (makes a huge difference), and if that is not enough, then go bigger.
LOVE my akebono pads
Last edited by WaterDragon; Jun 18, 2014 at 11:24 AM.
Agree, the Akebonos are great for daily driving, but very easy to induce brake fade as well.
My advice would be to avoid them if you're going near the track, but for daily duties they're great
My advice would be to avoid them if you're going near the track, but for daily duties they're great
The "high carbon" plated Centrics are very good. The cheaper uncoated Centics I'm running on the back of my XJR work fine, but rusted instantly and look like crap around the hub. I've had very good luck with the Brembo blanks I've been running on the front, that i picked up from Tire Rack. For a daily, I'd just run plain blank (non slotted/cross-drilled) rotors. Slotted works well for high heat applications, but they can be noisy. Cross-drilling is just asking for cracks.
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Hello Everyone. As some of you may know I have a 03 XJR R1 with some major upgrades:
1.) Air Intake
2.) Water/Meth Kit
3.) Low Temp Thermostat
4.) 3psi Upper Supercharger pulley
5.) Larger crankshaft pulley
6.) Upgraded intercooler radiator
7.) BIP Custom Headers w/ 200 cell CATS
8.) Quaife ATB Limited Slip Differential
9.) BORLA Cat-back system NOW GONE in favor of a MagnaFlow X-pipe exhaust system ( 2.5 inch piping, X-pipe, Mid resonator and 2 ceramic axle back straight thru mufflers)
DYNO TESTED: (CAN BE SEEN ON YOUTUBE)
With BORLA setup (horsepower): 351 RW hp
(torque) : 359 RW tq
DYNO TESTED:
MAGNAFLOW X-pipe (horsepower): 351 RW hp
(torque) : 367 RW tq
As you can see the improvements are in the torque range. The X-Pipe really helps at high speeds when you are passing and merging onto the highway. It's very noticeable from 75mph to 95mph. The XJR pulls strongly like a LOCOMOTIVE!!! The X-pipe is louder than the Borla due to the removal of 2 upfront mufflers but calms down at cruising speeds. I will take to the dragstrip this Fall to see if it can break the 1/4mi record of 12.43sec.
1.) Air Intake
2.) Water/Meth Kit
3.) Low Temp Thermostat
4.) 3psi Upper Supercharger pulley
5.) Larger crankshaft pulley
6.) Upgraded intercooler radiator
7.) BIP Custom Headers w/ 200 cell CATS
8.) Quaife ATB Limited Slip Differential
9.) BORLA Cat-back system NOW GONE in favor of a MagnaFlow X-pipe exhaust system ( 2.5 inch piping, X-pipe, Mid resonator and 2 ceramic axle back straight thru mufflers)
DYNO TESTED: (CAN BE SEEN ON YOUTUBE)
With BORLA setup (horsepower): 351 RW hp
(torque) : 359 RW tq
DYNO TESTED:
MAGNAFLOW X-pipe (horsepower): 351 RW hp
(torque) : 367 RW tq
As you can see the improvements are in the torque range. The X-Pipe really helps at high speeds when you are passing and merging onto the highway. It's very noticeable from 75mph to 95mph. The XJR pulls strongly like a LOCOMOTIVE!!! The X-pipe is louder than the Borla due to the removal of 2 upfront mufflers but calms down at cruising speeds. I will take to the dragstrip this Fall to see if it can break the 1/4mi record of 12.43sec.
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