So my EGR pipe is cracked, I tried to find it but I only found prices of about $250 which is ridiculous. So my next question is if anyone just capped it off and if it will throw codes on AJ26?

 

I can't say for certain, but my egr valve was plugged up a couple of years ago and it was throwing EGR malfunction codes. I took it apart and cleaned it up. That took care of it.

What about some JB Weld.. or the 2 part epoxy sticks? Maybe you could repair it with that, or check in with some of the guys who are parting out in the private sales section. You don't have much to lose in trying to repair it. I fixed an exhaust pipe flange on my son's 2002 Ford Escape with the putty type metal epoxy and it has held up for a few years.

 

JB weld doesn't do in high heat areas. I've learned that the hard way when I started wrenching some years back.

Honestly, when I put the motor together I cleaned the elbow/egr and throttle body clean of any deposits. I was hoping to cap to keep the crap out of the motor

 

been looking into this, as a 3.2 manifold hasn't got the port drilled out. There's a thread in the s type forum I'll dig out...

 

Just leave the EGR attached (at least electronically for the ECU), and block the port on the exhaust manifold and on the intake elbow.

Only cars with a MAP sensor (which the AJ26 doesn't have, and some AJ27) will require a different approach, but just as well possible.

 

Andre is right as long as you don't have a map sensor you should be able to buy the factory blanking plate for the exhaust manifold @ leave the other side on @ unplugged.

 

Fair enough... actually I edited my first reply, as I had meant to suggest the putty sticks (I am not sure of the correct name of the stuff). If blanking it off does not work, you cold give that stuff a try. It would probably be easier to use than JB Weld and in my case it has remained intact for 3 years on an exhaust flange.

Let us know how it goes in the end, because if mine ever acts up again, I would be happy to blank it off. It could be that I got codes because the valve could not open and close properly. If it is not sensing gas flow or pressure, hopefully it would work blanked off

 

Well, I took the pipe off the car today, cut it out and kept the flanges. Than I used a sheet of copper to cut out a gasket/block off plate to use under the original flanges to hold it down. Put it on and so far it works fine. No EGR related codes so far.

 

The real test will be once you have driven the car over 100 miles. By then you should have gone thru enough cycles. Good luck with it.

 

Please do keep us updated after driving 100 miles or so