Have a look at this 2 Piece Rubber Strap Wrench Set strap wrench from Harbor Freight.

My 4 lb pulley came off pretty easy, and I had replaced it with the stock pulley.
Now I am trying to remove the stock pulley and it is "resisting" being removed.

I've tried my entire "French" vocabulary, but surprisingly, that has not helped.

The problem is the familiar one of the crank pulley turning.

Has anyone tried using a strap wrench to hold the crank pulley still?

I really don't want to pull the radiators to allow me to use an impact so I'm focusing on trying to immobilize the crank pulley somehow.

I'm a bit frustrated at the moment.

 

Dragon:
I doubt it. I used a much bigger, tougher Ridgid pipe tool strap wrench with a pipe over the handle and it sure did not seem to "have any extra"!

 

Rope in the compression stroke trick. 100% resistance.

 

I have exactly the same problem. Front seal is leaking. Shop tried to remove the stock pulley and they just destroyd $1000 heavy duty puller. They have never seen any pulley as hard locked as this. They have one more puller - a monster one, but that needs readitor to be removed first.

 

I'm seriously thinking about just driving it down to my trusted local indy. This way, if it leaks immediately, it is on them. They swapped off my original pulley to the +4 lb and only charged me one and a half hours labor. If not, then maybe the rope trick is the trick. This is really difficult.

Pulling the radiators is out of my comfort zone.

 

I thought you bought the correct tool??

You would of done it in no time at all instead of all these cowboy methods

 

I did buy the correct tool to allow me to tighten the bolt. This tool is the big long bar that attaches to the pulley, but you cannot use that tool AND a pulley puller at the same time.

 

I just talked to my trusted local indy (Joes foreign auto in Walnut Creek, CA) who has estimated 3 hours to change the crank seal.

I am definitely taking them up on this as a very good deal. The plan is for me to drop off the car tomorrow morning and let them have at it.

 

But the pic you showed which was the same as I showed included the puller? Once you got the bolt out you remove the handle and then fit the puller and take it off !!!!

Theoretically you should also use the flexi plate lining up tool but this is not necessary, I never do when I am just doing a pulley upgrade...

 

Using the "flexi plate lining up tool" is not a good plan for tightening or loosening the damper bolt since you can stretch the hole in the plate. Several folks have admitted to doing that, resulting in a hard to diagnose timing issue. I would bet there are more who have not admitted it!

 

No I would not recommend using just the lining up tool either to undo and tighten, however it helps, when you first start to tighten it is possible to still turn the engine over before the taper catches on the pulley also when you remove the pulley via the puller is not a problem either to hold the engine still as there should not be that much pressure on it

 

The bolt came off easily, it is the pulley itself that refuses to be moved.

The pulley is acting like Inigo in "The Princess Bride" saying "I will not be moved"

"I am waiting for Vizzini.."
"You certainly are a meany" <---- Bonus points for identifying who said that!

 

That's easy then..... I have had stubborn pulleys before, I must admit not so close after being fitted, what I do is fit the puller and tighten it up to the point you are turning the engine over and then smack it with a hide hammer, only had one who was a bit more reluctant and took a lump hammer under the same procedure, always came off...... Give it a go unless you don't mind paying the money......

 

try putting a lump of softwood on the belt surface of the pulley and tapping it with a hammer while still under tension of removal tool. it do not look like it has done anything, but the tool can be tightened some more. my pulley fought all the way to the end of the crank.

 

At this point I am quite happy to pay the money

 

Calliope