So after wrestling with the vacuum line from the manifold to the brake booster for almost 40 minutes, trying to remove it from the manifold so I could take off the intake manifold, I finally gave up and decided to cut it off for now, pay what I thought would be another $30 or so and just replace it once I had it out of the car and had more room to work on removing the now cut off 6" remaining piece from the manifold. Cutting it worked great!

NOW I FIND THAT THIS IS A DISCONTINUED PART WITH ONLY JAGBITS SELLING NEW OEM STYLE REPLACEMENTS FOR $190!!!!!!

So two questions:

1. Is it OK to simply leave the OEM line that I cut in there and splice them with a vacuum hose or fuel line hose with two worm clamps?
2. While trying to remove it from the manifold a small thin washer/ferul like piece came out from around the vacuum line where it enters the intake manifold body itself. It seems to have simply kept the line from wiggling. When it came out (and it is broken in three little pieces now) the line did not become any more willing to be removed and that 6" piece I still have coming from the manifold won't release. So if I am OK to leave it and splice with rubber hose, do I need to seal the opening where the vacuum line goes in since I lost that plastic spacer/washer/ferul thing with some "form a gasket" or sealant? If yes, what do I use?
   • OK, three questions, If I need to spend the $200 for a new line, how do I get the remaining 6" piece out without damaging the manifold, and how do I detach it at the brake booster? I don't need to bleed the brakes I assume.

Thanks guys.........always ask questions first I say......wish I listened to my own advice before I cut this one off.......

​​​​​​​Jeff

 

Splice the line and use some sealant.

 

First order of business is to order this part. I got it off of Amazon. You can also find this and the brake booster tube on eBay. Just need to get the part number for your vacuum tube then search for a used one??

This is what comes in that kit. That’s a very specific size o ring. Finding one “close enough” won’t do it. TRUST ME! You can toss the brass insert away as you won’t need it. Take the old o ring out of your engine. Make absolutely sure there is no remnants of the old broken o ring inside.

You can remove the remainder of the old o ring and plastic collar. Take this new o ring and the new plastic locking collar and insert it into your old brass insert still inside.

You unlock the black plastic tube by pushing down on the shoulder of the locking collar. Push in on each side going back and forth or use needle nose pliers to push in on two sides of the shoulder while gently pulling out the vacuum tube.

 

If you need the vacuum line I think I have 2 of them in the garage

 

Thanks greatly Col Sandurz! I am going to simply splice the two halves together with a rubber vacuum hose and two clamps I have. Really really tight fit even without the clamps. Once the bushing install kit above comes in on Monday I should hopefully be able to put it all together.

 

Make sure the end of the tube which goes into the fitting is not scored. Mine was and it would not seal with a new fitting installed.

 

Thanks, I will check for that, some have suggested using a gasket sealant, or epoxy like JB Weld around the tube as well after the bushing is replaced.

 

Yeah I wouldn’t try to use sealant on that because the whole concept is that it supposed to be somewhat flexible I believe and the sealant does not like to stick in that area to the plastic because of the EGR valve deposits and the heat and the vibration. and It could just cause you more leaks in my opinion