XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Check Rear Light

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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 04:43 PM
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Default Check Rear Light

...or something like that, appeared on the "screen" this morning when I left for work. Since I had recently replaced the driver's side rear bulb (brake bulb), I figured it was the other one, so when I got to the parking lot I checked to see if I still had the other new bulb (they're sold in pairs) and then checked the passenger's side brake bulb -- looked fine but I replaced it anyway just to see if that was the problem. I got back in the car, started it up, pressed the brake, and still got the message. Perplexed, I checked the driver's side brake bulb -- it was loose, almost falling out! I must've not installed it correctly when I replaced it a while back. I screwed it in tight, turn on the car, hit the brake pedal and still got the message! Again I was perplexed, so I double checked both brake lights (I didn't know which one was giving me the trouble, I had no one there to help me, and no place to back up to so I could "see" which one it was). I checked again and still got the message.

Off to work I went figuring I'd have a small project for the weekend. When I got back in my car this evening, without touching the bulbs at all, the message no longer is displayed! I would guess that the loose bulb was causing the problem, but I don't know why the error message was still coming on when I checked it this morning.

Oh well, all fixed now! LOL


PS It's nice to have the "ability" to do fix this stuff myself. I know people who would've driven straight to the Jaguar dealership with these little problems and pay ridiculous amounts to get them fixed. Again I'm reminded that the X308 is simply a CAR, nothing more, nothing less, and it doesn't cost a billion dollars for simple little issues!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 07:34 PM
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I am currently experiencing the 'Check Rear Lights' issue. Beside the obvious bulb/socket issue the brake switch and the cruise control switch can also create this message.

In my case it appears that the cruise control micro switch is the villain. With the CC up (on) the message comes and goes, sometime several miles after starting . . . always off on start up. With the CC down (off) it does not occur. Maybe I will take the switch out this weekend and clean it a bit.

The logic of the CC micro switch causing this escapes me but it has been identified in previous threads.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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Could also be the module in the trunk. If u have a friend look while u press brake and all u get is 3rd brake light ur module has gone bad.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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When it first happened, I was able to back toward a large glass door and could see the driver's brake bulb was not lit, and after taking it out, it was obviously fried. This time I had no easy way to check it, but I'm convinced it was the loose bulb.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 04:23 AM
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It's a legacy warning once fixed, it still loiters for a moment then cancels. I've had this exact thing happen a few times when replacing a bulb. Drove me bonkers for a day. Cleaned all the contacts in both bulb packs, replaced bulbs, cleaned all the bases.

One thing I noticed, turning the sidelights on cancelled the warning (voltage draw from the second filament cancelled the warning). It's the bulb on the way out but still working intermittently that causes the displayed fault.

Then, replaced with LED's and resistors, but that's another story...
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Sean B
It's a legacy warning once fixed, it still loiters for a moment then cancels. I've had this exact thing happen a few times when replacing a bulb. Drove me bonkers for a day. Cleaned all the contacts in both bulb packs, replaced bulbs, cleaned all the bases.

One thing I noticed, turning the sidelights on cancelled the warning (voltage draw from the second filament cancelled the warning). It's the bulb on the way out but still working intermittently that causes the displayed fault.

Then, replaced with LED's and resistors, but that's another story...
Thanks! I'm glad to know it wasn't me (or my car)!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 11:06 AM
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While wiring trailer lights, I am usually alone, so I find a stick, brick, or something that will hold the brake down while I go back there and tinker. There are many ways to get it to work.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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I agree (that there are many ways to make it work) but I was in a parking lot on my way to work and didn't have but a moment to check it out.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 11:59 AM
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Please don't take that as a "Why didn't you think of this" statement. I was just offering an idea for anyone looking at this thread in the future.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperSport
Please don't take that as a "Why didn't you think of this" statement. I was just offering an idea for anyone looking at this thread in the future.
I apologize for my rather terse reply above -- I didn't take your comment as a direct attack on me, but was just explaining why I didn't/couldn't utilize your wise advice.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 08:16 PM
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i had this problem on and off for a year (drove me nuts)...it had progressively gotten worse...so i checked all the bulbs and they were ok, then i cleaned them and the holders with contact cleaner, then i thought it was the brake switch, then i thought it was the body control module...it wasn't any of these...it was the rear marker lights which worked fine, but the bulb filaments were really worn down and stretched...so i think it was how both of them were effecting the overall resistance of the bulb monitor??? who knows but now that i changed the rear marker bulb lights it is all good...i do know that the rear marker bulbs are monitored with the other rear lights by the body control module, but i just didn't think if the bulbs were lit it would have given a false positive...hmm...
 
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 12:17 AM
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I agree with the rear side marker statement. I got the code and it turned out that the fright rear side marker was out.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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If some bulbs have a steel base and others a brass base the resistance difference can be just enough to cause an intermittent warning even though all the bulbs are good.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Lear45
If some bulbs have a steel base and others a brass base the resistance difference can be just enough to cause an intermittent warning even though all the bulbs are good.
Thanks for that! I think I do have different bases on the bulbs. I'll keep an eye on it. I think in this case it was a loose bulb, though.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 09:20 AM
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Great advice! I was about to start looking at my bcm or brake switch...I am going to check out what you said...hey what about the marker bulbs..anything special with those type of bulbs I should look for
 
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