Cheers! 2000 XJ8/65K miles. I have a light clunking/rattle noise that sounds like its coming from where the steering column meets the dashboard IVO/under the speedometer cluster when going over bumps. I can also feel it in the steering wheel. Took the upper and lower steering wheel shrouds off and the instrument cluster. Tightened any bolt and the telescoping adjustment bolt to no avail. Steering column is tight with no vertical or horizontal play. Power telescoping and up and down controls work as advertised. Recently changed inner and outer tie rods, shocks and mounts, sway bar end links. Car handles well and rides smooth. Any ideas?

 

Might have to get a video for us as it sounds like you’ve done a fair bit of work trying to source this already. Has anything you’ve done made any changes to either pitch or frequency to this noise? If so, what (if any) did you do to make it change?

 

Add,
Great idea. I get it on video/audio tomorrow. Its a light clunk/tapping noise going over bumps, very annoying. The noise has been consistent without change in pitch. It seems like the noise began around the time I did the tie rods and stab link ends. Ive been looking at the 308 workshop manual and any other drawings to see what structures are under the instrument cluster for a possible source.

 

Shock mounts can sound like they're at the firewall.

 

If the lower steering column section is not replaced with the latest model. It could be then the crash sleeve that has wore out and have slack to it. Wiggle the lower steering colum up and down and you will feel the play if there is any. Play will sound through the column shaft and sounds like it is coming from the firewall. Older model has rubber gaiter to cover the sleeve up. Latest model replaced the sleeve. Remember to buy the firewall rubber gaiter too. It is also different.

 

Vauxi,
Kiittää! I'll get it up on the rack later this week and inspect the lower column. Attached is a short video of the noise its making. Its very noticeable in the cabin. In the video I am turning the wheel from side to side but it also makes the sound driving straight when going over bumps.

 

All,

Here is a better video of the clunking. Thanks!

 

I'm proceeding with changing the lower steering column as suggested. I ordered MNE9501AD, updated lower column with the rubber coupling, as indicated in TSB 211-06. Also ordered the firewall grommet MNE9516AC. Does anybody have any tips for making this removal and reinstall go a little easier? I'm aware that I need to mark the splines. Any suggestions for getting the firewall grommet in place? Thanks!

 

Did you check the 10mm bolt head where the lower steering coupler meets the steering rack? Or the “U brackets” where the steering rack meets the subframe? Make sure those are all tight.

 

No, I did a visual inspection only. I will definitely put wrenches on the areas you suggest. Appreciate it!

 

Before you start throwing parts at it, check there is about a ten inch long bracket that goes from the upper firewall down to a structural member just to the left of the brake master cylinder and to the right of the coolant reservoir (as if you are standing at the front of the car and looking toward the rear). It does more than just hold up the bulkhead that isolates the brake booster from the rest of the engine compartment, rather that little bracket, attached by I think three or four bolts, is actually structural reinforcement, believe it or not. If any of those bolts become loose, then it will create a knocking sound that will appear to come from the steering column which passes through the firewall right below that bracket, as the body flexes while going over uneven pavement. Took me a couple of years and many thousands of dollars to find that, but oh well, now I don't have a single squeak or knock left anywhere.

 

Rubber gaiter just sits in the hole in the firewall with the groove in the gaiter. You can not mark the new column lower joint so that it will not affect the steering wheel angle(Ok, you may and can so that wheel is not way off). Upper joint is one way only. So wheel aligment is needed to get steering wheel straight. Just remember to keep front wheels straight and do not turn steering wheel at all when it is disconnected from the lower column. Steering lock is good in this.