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i have a coolant leak, but cannot see where it is coming from.
I had a bad leak on the heater return hose, which I spliced since it looks like a pain to replace.
after the system is pressurized, maybe 5 minutes, I have another leak.
I went out at 5 this morning an added UV dye, but I cannot see where it is coming from. It’s on ramps, so I’m sure that is running from somewhere like mid engine. It is currently dripping from the transmission I think. So something above and forward of that should be where the leak is.
the origin is not visible from above or below.
is this the dreaded valley hoses that I’ve seen mentioned?
all the hoses look original, so I’m sure that they need to be replaced here soon, but I’m physically disabled and don’t have much money; so I need to fix this myself before it gets much colder. We are already having hard frosts. Sorry, my pills make me ramble a bit…
the posts that I read about valley hoses is a bit beyond my expertise, but the heater return hose seems to be one of these.
the part that I spliced was a bit dry, and had stretched to nearly 1” ID, while it should have been around .75 I think. I spliced it with a .75 ID, and it seemed to fit the attachment correctly.
so I’m guessing with that leak fixed, another part of the hose cracked under pressure?
before I start removing the top half of the engine, I guess that I’m looking for two things.
first, does this scenario sound like it’s another part of the heater return hose? Since I know that that hose is not in good shape and I cannot actually see the origin of the leak.
second, is there a write up for removing and replacing this hose for dummies? I really need pics as well as written directions. The post that seemed to be most informative that I could find really seemed to jump quite a few steps. For example, first was a picture of the engine initially, next was one down to the manifolds. Think there was something missing lol. I’m sure there is one, or to a related model, but I’m not finding it.
I would like to thank you all for reading this rambling of a post, and appreciate all the help that I have received. It has kept this cat from the junkyard more than once!
Says xK8 but should be similar...Removing the 10 10mm bolts that secure the intake manifold to the heads,
then removing the 2 bolts that attach the throttle body to the bracket in the back allows you, in about 15 min
of work, to remove the throttle body and intake plastic as a unit to access everything to do with these hoses
more easily... For the TB there are about 2 - 3 hoses, fuel lines, injector plugs, a throttle cable and a couple
of plugs to remove that will allow you to put it on a bench. While you're at it you can replace intake manifold
gaskets.
Well, you have a 22 yr old car with probably still many 22 yr old parts that are now in need of attention.
The first place I would so suspect for leakage, and is very common, would be the octopus line setup which comes off the bottom of your coolant fill reservoir.
Here's a thread on it, be sure to review the whole thing, as for the clamp shown, you can pick them up at Harbor Freight and I believe Northern Tool if you want them today. I think they are cheaper there as well? https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...estion-244066/
How in the heck did your post wind up in front of mine Randy?...other than posting before me... After I posted, there was no else showing....hmmm. Oh well, I wouldn't of posted as I did if I'd of seen yours first mate...cheers.
As Highhorse said, it’s a wager that you don’t really know the odds of winning or losing on but it’s a wager with no upside and considerable downside.
If you win, you are still in the same place you are now needing to do the work. If you lose, it could potentially cost you considerably more, perhaps even the engine/car itself. Perhaps she can be parked until you have the resources if you can arrange alternative transportation?
I know what it’s like not to have the money to do things that should be done and wish you luck in whatever you decide you have to do.
Hoses are one part of the car you definitely want to pay particular attention to. I had a
Diesel VW Rabbit that gave no indication of failure on the highway, no gages, no light,
nothing and had no idea there was a problem till I smelled it. It turned out that one of
the water hoses had failed. No telling how long I had been driving but from then on it
would only start with a spray of wd-40 in the intake. (compression)
Thank you all for replying. The video and write up will help enormously.
pilotman-when I looked up the hose over the weekend, it was around $22, but I didn’t really research it. I was just trying to find a photo of it to see if I could find where it ran.
when I was a kid, my grandmother ran a mustang with a bad leak and the engine froze up. I don’t want to risk that. It was like a 74 and was fugly, so no loss to the world. It had velvet purple upholstery and carpet.
I haven’t watched the video yet honestly, so maybe the video answers this… but is the other end of this hose accessible, without removing the top of the engine? The diagram that I’m using seems to show a pretty much straight shot through the engine… so wondering if I couldn’t just bypass the valley and run the hose a different route. Seems like there is room in the bay.
probably should replace the overfill too… I had to epoxy a little crack. It’s held so far, but if I’m doing the full hose game, probably should do that too.
spending most of my time fixing up my other car. I only drive it maybe 200 miles a year and have neglected it. But looks like the cat is down for a bit. Gives me time to strategize!
So, lets look at it from a different point of view...redneck.
Take and cut off part of the piece that is leaking, go to a parts store and get a 12" length of hose the same ID (inner diameter) size. Go to a hardware store and get, as short as possible, barbed or flared union (preferably cast or copper) and some hose clamps. Or get a plastic barbed one and cut it down, don't short the barb part to fit the clamp. Cut back as far as you feel weakness in the hose, or to make the splice fit, ..and commence with making the splice. Don't over tighten the hose clamp, ...you could strip it or break the union if plastic. This should hold you until you can afford the proper replacement octopus in a few months. It shouldn't cost more that $15.
I only recommend this on a limited budget scenario...don't make it a habit.
im using an aluminum coupling. That splice seems to work fine. Just not sure if I have enough time to get the proper procedure done before it gets too cold for me. What takes a normal person an hour, usually takes me eight due to physical limitations.
the other car is road worthy now at least. It just isn’t comfortable, esp compared to the cat.
Says xK8 but should be similar...Removing the 10 10mm bolts that secure the intake manifold to the heads,
then removing the 2 bolts that attach the throttle body to the bracket in the back allows you, in about 15 min
of work, to remove the throttle body and intake plastic as a unit to access everything to do with these hoses
more easily... For the TB there are about 2 - 3 hoses, fuel lines, injector plugs, a throttle cable and a couple
of plugs to remove that will allow you to put it on a bench. While you're at it you can replace intake manifold
gaskets.
When I replaced my intake manifold gaskets, I didn't have to disconnect the throttle body from the intake manifold ar remove the throttle body. After the manifold is unbolted, the entire throttle body and manifold hinge upwards. There was room to replace the gaskets. Think room to replace the hose.
Yes sir. Different cooks have different recipes, and the results are what counts.
It is all in what the individual is comfortable using while in his own individual workspace.
Coolant leak- Valley hose?
After I posted, there was no else showing....hmmm. Oh well, I wouldn't of posted as I did if I'd of seen yours first mate...cheers.
