The coolant system ?
I realize that this is an old thread, but I have thought back on this a few times and it bugs me. I really like the Aston Martin idea and have thought the same thing many times, but once again, those women folk are so stingy about that!
I have thought over this situation from time to time and can't bear to stand that no one has mentioned a thermostat on here. I didn't see anywhere that you replaced it. You need to replace the thermostat every time the car is overheated because they are built with a wax pellet that melts away when too hot. I tried to run mine after doing head gaskets and it had the same symptoms as yours. It's also a good time to replace that bad plastic thermostat housing with a nice aftermarket aluminum one.
Hate to give this info so late, and I could be wrong, but I'm confident that $60 for thermostat and housing both plus half an hour to put it in would have solved your problems.
I have thought over this situation from time to time and can't bear to stand that no one has mentioned a thermostat on here. I didn't see anywhere that you replaced it. You need to replace the thermostat every time the car is overheated because they are built with a wax pellet that melts away when too hot. I tried to run mine after doing head gaskets and it had the same symptoms as yours. It's also a good time to replace that bad plastic thermostat housing with a nice aftermarket aluminum one.
Hate to give this info so late, and I could be wrong, but I'm confident that $60 for thermostat and housing both plus half an hour to put it in would have solved your problems.
Busted the ^^^^ out of the one between the expansion tank and the radiator. Half inch rubber tube at radiator nipple and 4 (yes 4) tighteners to tighten down on the plastic tube (7 above) has temporarily fixed, but sloppy (hate sloppy). given more blood on this ^^^^ing car than I ever gave to Red Cross.
Oh, and I only needed two clamps!
I broke mine, too!
If you don't have the removal tool, which is supposed to be stored somewhere in the engine compartment, you can use a long needle nose pliers to open the connector. Lots of people say to squeeze the connector to take it off, and I know it can be done like that sometimes, but the proper way is to use the tool or something else to push the plastic "loops" out to pop the connector off.
If you don't have the removal tool, which is supposed to be stored somewhere in the engine compartment, you can use a long needle nose pliers to open the connector. Lots of people say to squeeze the connector to take it off, and I know it can be done like that sometimes, but the proper way is to use the tool or something else to push the plastic "loops" out to pop the connector off.
Having looked very carefully at those fittings due to recent trauma involving purchasing new hoses at the dealer ...
the loop fits completely around the retaining lip on the nipple.
Therefore, squeezing the loop only makes things worse. What can help in addition to the lubricant is a bit of gentle twisting to free things up and a small jewelers screwdriver to aid in freeing up tight spots on the loop. If any part of the loop is hanging on the retaining lip, removal will be very difficult.
Plastic of any kind, in any location ought to be banned from automobiles.
the loop fits completely around the retaining lip on the nipple.
Therefore, squeezing the loop only makes things worse. What can help in addition to the lubricant is a bit of gentle twisting to free things up and a small jewelers screwdriver to aid in freeing up tight spots on the loop. If any part of the loop is hanging on the retaining lip, removal will be very difficult.
Plastic of any kind, in any location ought to be banned from automobiles.
Makes my blood boil.....
I have not been able to get it to work with the needle nose pliers method. With that method I have to pull away with too much force, the clip gives and I end up breaking them.
I have had more success with oil and then pinching the ring and pulling with a slight turning back and forth motion.
I have seen the tool on a Jag service bulletin. If I remember correctly, the bulletin made it sound like the tool had been developed after the fact because techs were having problems removing the clips.
I found that the "secret" to using the needle nose pliers is to push the pliers into the connector as shown in the photo until the connector releases - I do not suggest "opening" the plies, just slide it in until the connector opens -- very carefully, of course.
Hi GGG. Could you tell me please how can I find the number 12 on this diagram
Graham
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