Took my car in for inspection the other day, and was failed inspection for rear wheel play. Mechanic said it was rear wheel bearings, but he also said he doesn't have much experience working on Jags.

I got the car up on jacks at home, and got a little play in both rear wheels. The play only happens when pushing in/out at 12, nowhere else has play, whether it's pushing the whole wheel in/out, or pushing in at 3 out at 9, etc. I was able to find play in the U-joints and one of the diff output bearings (again, looks like one of the junkyard ones didn't hold, ugh) so I've already got those to do, which means new axle nuts as well.

If I'm only getting play at 12-oclock, then the wheel bearings should be good? Or is there a different way to leverage the wheel or hub assembly to check the bearings? I'd like to avoid buying more parts if possible right now, but if it has to be done, then it has to be done...

 

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-assembly-rear


https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...hbone-assembly

 

A quick check to rule out is the hub nut, (#7 1st image) it's a special thing and shouldn't budge but I've seen them back off once or twice on XJR's, and create what feels like diff play - remove the wheel and you can see a plated nut in the centre of the hub, check it with a torque wrench.

 

Just checked the hub nuts, they are on there solid tight.

I've been going off those diagrams already, I checked the highlighted roller bearings and didn't see any play when moving the wheel by hand.

I had a helper move the wheel in the direction of play while I looked underneath the car - I could definitely feel the play in the U-joints and the pass side diff output bearing, so I know those both need to be replaced. I didn't see any movement in the taper roller bearings, or axle/spindle relative to the carrier. My only thoughts are that I wouldn't want to replace U-joints, diff bearing, and axle nuts, only to find that the wheel bearings are also bad, but I'm thinking that if I'm only getting play in that one direction, it would only be caused by the two known issues.

 

My XJ has the same issue. Only on 12 o clock. I checked where the play is... In my case it is in the differential. My driveshafts move in and out about 1 mm (probably less).

Check if your driveshaft(s) move with the wheel.

 

I just had my whole set up rebuilt and I have about the same amount of play - coming out of the diff output flanges. I used new components- bearings etc. I'm probably going to pull the stub shafts out with the diff insitu- I don't know if it was put together wrong of what?
I wonder if I'll need to get the collar on the shaft pressed harder if need to add more shims...

 

Had same problem with play in the wheel. replaced the bearings and no help. diff was renewed a short while ago and was fine.

After longer research we found a play might come from U joints!
U joints replacement fixed the problem. Check those out.

 

Is any in and out play acceptable or indicative of an issue?

 

A small amount of play in the diff output bearings is normal and the inspection guy might be OVERLY picky!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Go to another inspection facility and ignore him if there is just a LITTLE play.

The said bearing is basically your UPPER CONTROL ARM for the rear suspension.
The bearing is a DEEP GROOVE ball bearing and wears slightly.

Unless you replace the output bearings every 20 thousand miles or so, you will NEVER pass inspection from that guy.

After working on thousands of Jaguars over the years, I just use my judgement to determine when the bearing has worn out vs just being a little worn.

JTIS has the ACTUAL procedure 205-02

Differential Output Shaft End Float Check

Disconnect the battery ground lead

Raise the vehicle for access

Mount a dial test indicator (DTI) to the differential housing with the probe resting on the axle shaft flange (the DTI probe must be parallel to the output shaft center line and NOT the axle shaft)

Check the end float

Push the wheel / shaft assembly INWARDS
Zero the DTI

Pull the wheel / shaft assembly OUTWARDS
Note the reading

Check the specification0 to 0,15 mm GOOD
0,15 mm + NOT GOOD; Renew the output shaft bearing

bob

 

Measured both bearings and they were about 5-6 thousandths of an inch in movement, which is just barely in that 0.15mm tolerance. I've got a set of 4 U joints on order, hopefully that takes care of the rest of the play in the wheels

 

Nilanium, did the new U joints resolve the problem?
Asking as my XK8 seems to have the same issue.

 

Oh man can't believe this was all the way back in 2017.
I don't remember the exact outcome, but from what I remember, it didn't really improve play? If I remember correctly the new UJ's still had a tiny bit of play in each one. I ended up using 2 of whatever the budget option was on Terry's jag parts at the time for one side axle, and 2 of some more common brand on the other side. I trashed a couple UJ's trying to install them, which is why they ended up not matching all around. Also found out that the UJ's used are a pretty common size, I forget what it is but I can go dig through my parts, I should have one around as a spare. After replacement oth sides/all 4 joints had about the same amount of play in the UJ's when feeling by hand between the yokes, and having a helper rock the wheel at 12 oclock. The play was very minor, but I could feel it. So, it's not a tolerance issue with a certain brand. I ended up just running it like that instead of stripping everything down again, UJ's are one of the worst jobs I've had to do IMO just from how much of pain it is to line and jig everything up for r/i with at-home tools.

I had the back end off the ground recently to check for play and it all feels ok (about 18k miles since the service). Pass side has some play at 12oclock, driver's side is almost none. Not sure how much of that is UJ vs diff output bearing, it wasn't too bad and I didn't really have the time to find a helper and feel around by hand, setup the runout gauge on the diff stubs, etc.

On the topic of the inspection. I went back for the reinspection back then and tried to explain to the guy how it's not a loose suspension component, jag IRS uses the half shafts as the upper control arm, and so on... He didn't seem to get it, and after a bit of back n forth, he grumbled something about why he only works on american cars, and passed my inspection

 

Thank you for the response.

I am not that worried about the play (only a bit on the 12 o'clock position), but I got a grinding noise on both sides, which I suspect are the UJ bearings.
I greased them when I got the car, and the noise has been dramatically less for the previous period, but it is coming back.
It's an easy to forget item for service, so they might have been forgotten with the previous owner for 136.000 km ....
Not looking forward on changing them though.

 

That definitely sounds like it could be U-joints, especially if grease temporarily remedied it. Reminds me, mine are probably due for some grease pretty soon...

If you're not sure and don't want to risk wasting time and axle nuts, you can undo the nuts at the diff output stub (these are also a bit of a pain to reach, and keep in mind they're imperial) and swing the halfshaft clear of the stub studs. That'll give you some space to dangle it around and feel individual UJs for roughness. If you do get to replacing, definitely just buy the single-use replacement axle/hub nuts and take the halfshaft out for the work. Make sure to mark each side's diff output spacer to keep the alignment consistent.

Just checked my old boxes, the budget option from Terry's was Powertune JLM1388X or just JLM1388. Looks like the "standard" UJ size equivalent is a 331 u-joint, mine were from Moog and seemed to work fine, but any brand 331 UJ should fit. Make sure they don't put the grease port in a dumb spot, and have grease ports.