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Well looksl ike the dreaded A Drum issue has reared it's ugly head.
Driving last Saturday(Christmas Eve) sitting at a light, light turned green gave it a little gas, just sit there then BANG. It then moved oh so slowly out of traffic. Gearbox Fault, Check engine light came on. Code was a P1722. Reverse works like a champ.
Now for the big debate. Buy a rebuilt, have mine rebuilt or buy a used one. From what I've read on here rebuilt or having mine rebuilt around 3000-3500. Buying a used one w/shipping about 1000.
But I was wondering what all needs to be done to mine to get it going. A Drum and what else? Is rebuilding it on my own something that I should consider? I have some mechanical skills(SOME) but I can read and follow directions. I saw this kit Would this do what I need? or is this overkill? Or do I need something else too? Sorry for all the questions. I love my Cat and want to try and keep her. Just 3000 or 3500 and she'll have to go.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have replaced about 10 forward drums and never needed to rebuild the entire box.
You don't even need to drain the fluid if you have changed it recently but I recommend changing if you have not.
I stand the gearbox in a tall gear oil drum with the bell housing UP. Remove the bell housing with the front pump attached (Leave the different color pump bolts to the pump installed). Lift out the forward drum with the other 2 drum assy.
Separate the drums and swap the clutch fictions/steels to the new 'A'drum. DO NOT FOR GET THE 'O'RING on the forward drum!!! I forgot once and had to tear the assy down again. I wasted 6 hours pulling the gearbox, installing the 'O'ring and re-installing. When cars get this old I usually snap a few exhaust studs on the cataverter flanges so I keep them in stock.
You will need a pump-to-trans-case gasket at the MINIMUM. I usually make one out of a LARGE sheet of gasket paper and a small ball peen hammer. Trim it with a sharp razor knife.
I like it because the end is not perforated wavey metal but solid metal.
They require a core but I have a few broken gearboxes in my spare parts pile.
I send one and keep the new one on the shelf for the next broken gearbox.
I have done 3 A drum repairs in the past few years. I like the A drum from cascade shown by larney. The ring is designed to fit the contour of the drum instead of having a groove cut into the drum to accommodate the ring. It's just my personal preference but either should work.
Thanks for this link. It is a better price than I have been getting it from a local transmission parts supplier.
A question for Bob.
Your suggestion that you don't need to change the oil. I respectfully disagree. Yes it can be done but 90% of the time there are fragments from the A drum in the pan. I like to get that clean up with the magnets and a new filter
Also when you stand the transmission up on its end, I do the same thing, those fragments can now end up somewhere else in the transmission.
Also I would change the pressure valve with the transgo updated valve. It is said that pressure spikes from the valve cause the drum failure.
Even considering this package. One less thing to worry about.
ZF5HP24 TRANSMISSION REBUILD KIT + CLUTCH PACK + CLUTCH DRUM
Price:$563.84 + Free Shipping Note: Not eligible for Amazon Prime.
In stock.
Get it as soon as Jan. 5 - 10 when you choose Standard Shipping at checkout.
Any suggestions?
A question for Bob.
Your suggestion that you don't need to change the oil. I respectfully disagree. Yes it can be done but 90% of the time there are fragments from the A drum in the pan. I like to get that clean up with the magnets and a new filter
Also when you stand the transmission up on its end, I do the same thing, those fragments can now end up somewhere else in the transmission
I said you don't need to if the gearbox is vertical (the fluid won't leak). Many times people change the oil/filter and THEN realize the forward drum is faulty.
The old "Maybe it just needs a fluid/filter change??"
The fluid is already RENEWED so changing again might be unnecessary.
I have had a few customers that changed fluid/filter and THEN brought me the car for the 'A'drum replacement. I did not replace the fluid AGAIN.
Larney
That seems a little bit pricey for what you need. I would get the overhaul kit, gasket set, for around $160. The A drum for $125. Then for the friction disc you can get those for under $10 each. You only need 6 for the A drum.
Some people even reuse the A drum friction disc. Make sure to check clearance of the clutch pack. For some reason one of the drums I repaired I had .025" too much clearance. It caused the clutch to slip and it went into limp mode. Removed transmission again and found the problem. I had an extra what I think is called the spring, the wavy disc at bottom of pack, it was about .025" so I doubled up on those. I think you can also order oversized steels.
Bob,
Thanks for clarification. I agree with that scenario. I was thinking on the lines that somebody changed oil and filter in the past month and the A drum failed later, not related to oil change,there could be fragments in the pan. If there is any chance of fragments in the pan I like to make sure it is all cleaned up.
Well started the tare down my the trans repair. Soaked the eight exhaust mahifold bolts last night. Removed that (hard to get to) heat shield. Then today removed the 8 manifold bolts. No issues what so sever. None stripped or broke off. All look to be in good condition. Really the hardest thing is getting to them. So far. Tomorrow will disconnect the O2 sensors and the trans electrical plug. Then hopefully drop the front half of the exhaust and remove it from under the car. Trying to do it in small steps in hopes I won't get frustrated and break something. Stay tuned.
Also if anyone has any hints, clues or helpful input it will be much appreciated.
Do some Google searches (if you have not done so already); there are a couple of Youtube out there that show a Brit doing it in his backyard the way Bob suggests.
I have done 3 A drum repairs in the past few years. I like the A drum from cascade shown by larney. The ring is designed to fit the contour of the drum instead of having a groove cut into the drum to accommodate the ring. It's just my personal preference but either should work.
Thanks for this link. It is a better price than I have been getting it from a local transmission parts supplier.
Do you purchase the $145 a-drum made in the USA or the $100 one made in China. Cascade seems to sell both
I never looked where the drums I get were made until you asked. I checked the box and the drums I've been using are made in China. The appear to be durable. The one I put in my wifes car has 12,000 miles since the repair. One time I had one that I had to add .025" to the clutch pack. I checked the steels and friction and they were good. I figured it must have been the drum. Looking at the drum Bob, motorcarman, uses I might try that style to see how it works. I don't know if he has had a problem with clearance like I did. Whatever you decide check the clearance before you reinstall. I didn't that time and I had to take the transmission back out because transmission was slipping.
The ones I get from Bensenville, Illinois have never given me any trouble.
I just install the original frictions/steels if they are in good shape and put the drum back in the gearbox.
They are not painted as far as I can tell, but just bead-blasted after the welded section is installed.
I keep a broken and a repaired drum in stock so I have a replacement AND a core.
I keep a repaired gearbox for my 1999 XJ8L because I have 110000 miles on the original and I am waiting for it to pop. (maybe I'll swap it before it breaks??)
My wife's 2001 XJ8 has one of those drums in her car. I installed it a few years and 5000 miles ago.
bob
Last edited by motorcarman; 01-07-2017 at 08:37 AM.
Bob,
Do you reuse the oil and split rings or do you get new each time? If you get new have you come across a source to buy individually or do you buy a kit each time?
I use new oil/filter unless it was changed within a few hundred miles of the repair.
I have re-used the split rings and I have re-used the 'O'ring once when I did not have a replacement.
I buy the rebuild kits (about $175) and keep one in stock but sometimes just use a few parts and I make the pump-to-case gasket from large sheet material.
It's just a repair, not a rebuild. If someone wants a rebuild, they can take it to a transmission shop.
Well no updates. I have been out of town and busy with work. Hopefully this weekend I'll have it out. Only 6 bolts and linkage to go. Then I can see what I'm in for.
Stay tuned.
Ok. Trans is now out. The directions said remove all but the blonde bolts. Mine does have the blondes nut they all seem to be in the top half. Is that correct? Also I seem to be missing a bolt. I'm guessing that's not correct. See attached pics. Anything at this point I should look at/for. Can I just pull out all the bolts(remembering where the short and long ones go)
?
12-27-2016, 06:15 PM
Dreaded A Drum
