I drove my 2000 VDP with 125k miles on it for about 10 miles and it randomly stalled on me. I immediately tried to restart the engine, but it would just crank but not start. No CEL or codes. I could hear the fuel pump running while it cranked. I also saw low oil pressure pop up for a second, for the first time ever while starting the car and driving it a few days prior to it stalling. I immediately checked the oil level and it was full. I also get a false intermittent 'check rear lights' error during longish drives.


Before the car stalled on me, I had been hearing a whirring noise that I suspect might be the alternator. Right before it stalled, the noise seemed to be a bit louder than normal. The engine cranked just slightly slower than normal when I tried to restart it.


I had the car towed to a shop (non-Jaguar shop, as there are no Jag shops near me) and they are saying the starter is blown, and they need to replace it before they can determine what other issues may be going on. They are charging about $530 to replace the starter. I don't think a starter would stall out the engine. Is starter failure common on these cars? They said the engine is getting fuel however.


Does this sound fishy? Any ideas what the problem could be? Alternator?

 

If the engine is cranking over I don't see how you could need a new starter.
-If the engine is cranking slowly check voltage at the battery, then check voltage in the engine bay between the fuse box and the block. Loose connections at the false bulkhead (passenger side in front of the tool compartment cover) and bad ground wire to the block are known issues.

-Confirm fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. I read that the shop says it is getting fuel but this sounds like a no fuel problem (bad fuel pump).
-Check for pending codes with a scanner. Pending codes are problems that the computer sees but has not set fault codes. Note: a bad fuel pump will not set a code




Let us know what you find

 

Just had the same problem it turned out to be fuel pump.you can buy one for around $100. you can replace the pump without removing the tank .it will pull forward enough to change pump

 

Do you have to discconect fuel lines to move fuel tank forward enough to change fuel pump.

 

Turns out my alternator seized up and stalled the engine while idling. The belt is new and didn't jump. The mechanic says the seized alternator killed the starter while trying to restart it. I'm not sure if that's true. They replaced the spark plugs and is now awaiting an alternator to be installed.

 

Alternator was replaced but the engine still won't start. A compression test was run on the engine, and 7 cylinders had less than 100psi, and one was a bit over 100psi. The engine was flooded when the spark plugs were pulled. They said the oil in the cylinder trick didn't work. They will try an oil additive next.


Is this nikasil failure? The engine has never struggled to start before this. Does nikasil failure cause a running engine to stall and not restart?


I got a random 'low oil pressure' light twice in the week prior to the issue. The oil level was fine though.


I'm aware of the cylinder bore wash issue on these cars when starting, but would could cause the engine to stall and not restart? They said that the engine is getting fuel and spark.

 

That is a strange one. Did it make a lot of noise? I would think something had to slip when the alternator seized .. I'm surprised it stopped the engine.


How fast is it cranking ? Is the shop still saying the starter is bad?

 

burmaz,

I'm sorry you're having such a frustrating time with your car. This shop's diagnostics sound highly illogical, if not mythical.

I agree with rocklandjag that if the engine is cranking, the starter is working. And if the alternator is seized (rare), the drag would presumably make it very difficult for the starter to crank the engine, but if the engine will still crank, the starter has not been "killed."

Your compression does sound very low (if their measurments were accurate), but I haven't looked up the specs for your engine.

Fuel pump or fuel pump relay are good suspects.

Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS) is another very likely culprit. If the tachometer reads 0 rpm while cranking, that would be my first suspect.

The flooded cylinders might suggest a lack of spark. The ignition coils all receive 12V from the ignition coil relay via the Red/White wires, so it would be worth checking for power at a coil connection and if there is none, suspect the relay.

Please keep us informed, but frankly, the shop sounds like it's on a fishing expedition and is willing to sell you parts you don't need.


Don

 

Did they do a compression check before AND after the oil in the cylinders? You should be in the 120+ psi range.

I agree with Don B. more troubleshooting, less parts.

1. wet compression
2. fuel pressure
3. bulkhead connector

 

I had them install a new starter as I'm getting desperate. The old starter spun the engine about 75% as fast as normal when the engine initially stalled. The starter has spun slower on a weak battery in the past and the engine started. So I'm thinking they are either ripping me off by throwing parts at it, or they blew the starter when trying to work on the car. The car has been at the shop for 5 weeks now.


I do believe them when they said the alternator is bad however. It has been making a lot of noise, and was louder right before it stalled. I'm doubtful that a seized alternator would stall an engine however.


They are adding an oil additive called CD2 to get the compression up. I'm hoping that doesn't mess with the nikasil linings. My car doesn't burn oil, so I'm thinking they may not be fully aware of the cylinder wash issue. Can cylinder wash be caused by trying to unsuccessfully restart a hot engine?


They say it's cranking fast as if it's getting no compression.


If the oil additive doesn't work (which I'm doubting it will), I'm thinking about having it towed to a Jaguar indy 120 miles away. I'm in a small middle of nowhere town in IL, so there are no Jag mechanics or really any import specialists in my area.


The bill so far is $600 (not including parts) for a car that still doesn't start. I supplied my own starter and alternator (bought refurbs off ebay for $150 a piece). If I went with their parts, I would be out ~$1300 for a car that STILL doesn't work!

 

Going out on the limb here: I think your bad alternator may have tripped your inertia switch (right passenger bulkhead).

Keep the starter and alternator: a rebuild guy can refurbish for peanuts and you can sell them on eBay.

 

I assume the shop is going to use the CD2 Stop Leak. I've used the CD2 oil detergent from time to time to help keep my engine internals clean and to quiet noisy valve lifters on our Chrysler van. Personally, I'm not convinced that compression is your problem, and it would make no sense that low compression would cause a sudden stall and no-restart condition.


I'm no expert on cylinder wash, but there is a mountain of information on this forum so it would be worth spending some time searching the forum for previous threads and posts.

Have you had a chance to watch the tachometer while cranking the engine? The crank position sensor (CKPS) is still very high on my list of suspects...

Cheers,

Don