XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Found 1998 Jaguar XJ8 for $1,000

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Old Nov 2, 2025 | 12:13 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Hooli
Wild guess the generic code was P1000 or P1111? the first means the emissions drive cycle isn't complete, the latter means it is. Neither are faults.
it was something about the system has not completed all of its readiness tests.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 03:12 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by EddyBro
it was something about the system has not completed all of its readiness tests.
I think that's P1000 on some scanners.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 07:38 AM
  #23  
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That's what it is on the ELM327.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 11:53 AM
  #24  
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I bought the car and brought it home last night. Posting a few more pictures I took this morning while inspecting the car this morning.
The car was sitting in a barn for about 10 years. Somebody bought the car, brought it to life. Than the car was sold to another guy who drove it from 2022 to 2024 and it died on him in 2024. Now, I got it.
That is why the car is in very good condition.









 

Last edited by EddyBro; Nov 4, 2025 at 11:56 AM.
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 11:58 AM
  #25  
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.
 

Last edited by EddyBro; Nov 4, 2025 at 12:01 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 12:04 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
Look at the power stud on the 'false-bulkhead' in the engine compartment on the right side for starter issues.
@motorcarman sir is there a way to go without that special connector at least for testing?

This is what it looks like
 

Last edited by EddyBro; Nov 4, 2025 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 12:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Stu 1986
In the UK and Europe good examples of these cars are going for above £10,000 and pristine examples are above £20,000 in some cases. Even good examples of early poverty spec XJ8 3.2’s are £5,000+ in some cases. There are some around with severe faults and issues, but even they command a higher than average price in some cases. I recently saw an XJR which was missing its front bumper and had all sorts of small issues go for £3,400 which was astonishing considering.

To the OP if it isn’t going to put you out to buy the car and bring it home then it’s certainly worth exploring. I think the fault could be easily sorted, just a case of being patient and going through the systems. That’s what forums like this are for. Incidentally those rubber mats look like they could be OEM items which are rare, a quick look at the back would confirm it if there is a part number.
I didnt find a part number on the floor mat, so its not original I guess?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 12:15 PM
  #28  
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I am in Minnesota and cars here rust very fast due to winter and salt on the roads. I would like to stop/prevent rust asap before it gets any worse. Any suggestions on what should I use/do? Preferable I am not looking to do the big thin of sanding and repainting right now although I might do it next summer - to the bottom portion, panel of the body.
Thanks





Trunk lid
Trunk lid
worst spot
worst spot
worst spot
worst spot
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 02:18 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by EddyBro
@motorcarman sir is there a way to go without that special connector at least for testing?

This is what it looks like
I just take one off one of my parts cars and go on with my life.
You can try to clean it and tighten the connection?(temporary repair)
 
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Old Nov 5, 2025 | 01:03 AM
  #30  
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For test purposes can you not remove that damaged section completely and after cleaning the connectors temporarily connect a jump lead (jumper cable) between the posts? That item is toasted good style.

As for the rust, you’re extremely lucky that your sills and arches haven’t gone with any more rust than they have, however unfortunately the floor pan will need major attention. I’d look for a good welder/fabricator who can sort that for you, although in all likelihood you’ll have to remove the carpets inside to protect them from fire.
 
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