Hello

I found 1



with the following issue:

"Really clean body and interior for the age. Runs really well when its running, but is currently getting 6 volts to the starter which isn't turning it over. Corrosion in the power line is my suspect, was able to get it Jumpstarted at the starter. Battery in it is new and good, just out of charge from sitting. Someone with a bit of electrical experience would have a sweet ride for cheap. Or good for parting out. Engine and transmission both work good, just a drained battery and the loss of power to the starter. Has a new starter installed as well (tried that first before figuring out it was just low voltage) Has c.e.l on for reduced power so it drives normal up to 3k rpms. I've driven it like that for over 3 years without a single issue and had it 90+mph, you just cant floor it."

What's your guys thoughts and ideas on it? Does it worth it?

 

Look at the power stud on the 'false-bulkhead' in the engine compartment on the right side for starter issues.

 

Do it! Even if basket case could part out for much much more. Center consoles in good condition go for $250 on eBay. If you weren’t interested I’d ask where was but based on foliage not in my part of country.

 

Worth it. The console arm rest is 25% the asking price these days for one that nice. Not to mention the groovy shift knob and interesting floor mats. Be sure that air freshener comes with it 😏

 

That could be an easy fix. It may take a little tracing to find the draw. However,
this could really be an easy project with a great Jag as a result.

 

Mileage? From seat leather not a lot.

 

I'd add check the megafuses in the boot for corrosion too, now these girls are getting older. I believe one powers the car (250amp) and the other the starter (500amp). Motorcarman is probably right though, he knows these things inside out.

 

Thank you. I will check that if I purchase the car. I am going to look at it tomorrow.

 

@motorcarman Thank you. I will check that if I purchase the car. I am going to look at it tomorrow.

 

136,000 miles

 

That body looks too nice to pass up.
I just bought a 1998 XK8 covertible 'parts-car' for a $1000 that has every fender damaged and both tail lamps broken but 'sorta' runs and the gearbox is good.

If the car is within a few hundred miles and you don't buy it, I'd be tempted to get even though I have 13 Jaguars.

 

At $1,000, it'd be hard to go wrong given the value if you part it out. As someone who has parted out a few cars tho, I would warn that to get your money out of them, it takes a lot of work to dismantle carefully, clean parts, take photos, write descriptions, post ads, answer questions, find the right size boxes (packing materials like styrofoam peanuts and bubble wrap cost their weight in gold for some unknown reason), deal with unhappy returns, etc. And it can take a long time selling piece by piece. On the plus side tho, you'd be doing the forum a huge favor tho. If it goes to a regular salvage yard, the bulk of it will be wasted. They'll sell the motor and tranny and a few crash parts, but someone will remove the sunroof or door and then the interior will be quickly ruined, exposed to the weather. They'll make a small target percentage on it and then send it to the crusher within two to three months to make way for the next, much more popular model like a five year old Accord. If you part it out yourself, you could make sure that the bulk of the parts actually go to good use.

But if it doesn't turn out to be a quick/simple fix, I wouldn't spend much money on it. These cars aren't worth very much and never will be. Its a shame, but at current repair costs, its just not worth maintaining a car much beyond 100K miles. I try to do all my own work but with seven vehicles, I'm overwhelmed, so I recently took my Honda in for an electrical problem that had me stumped (and stumped the Honda techs too for nearly three weeks so I didn't feel too dumb). At 96K miles, I asked them for an cost to do everything included in the 100K mile service too. If it'd been a body shop estimate, the car would have been written off. And that's for a Honda. Can't imagine what a Jaguar 100K service would cost today. That's why they only want $1,000 for the Jaguar because if you paid a professional to service everything it needs as if you intended to keep it and daily drive it for another 100K miles, it'd probably cost more than a new Accord.

 

On the other hand, the cost of the service and maintaining for another 100,000 miles is still likely to be less than the service costs plus the depreciation on that Honda.

And you'd get to drive an X308 for those 100,000 miles instead of a Honda.

 

Bring a scanner which could easily identify the reason for the restricted performance 3000 RPM limit. Even if can’t figure out right then, still a great deal.

If you don’t buy, post location and ad source. Someone on the forum will jump on it.

For my third Jaguar, I bought a 2003 XJR-R1 with 189,000 miles off CoPart for $2000 after fees. $1200 in parts and my own labor later just finished 700 mile trip.

Assume it would be a second car. Only one this era Jag is not a good idea if you have only one car to get to work.

 

My 2001 XJR has been a reliable daily driver since the day we picked her up in Victoria and drove her back to Edmonton 3 1/2 years ago.

To be fair, she was/is a low mileage car with a known history and not a $1,000 project but, even then, once the project is finished it should also be pretty reliable if done right and properly maintained.

For perspective, my previous daily driver for almost 16 years was a ‘92 Series 3 V12 VDP that was also pretty reliable.

 

In the UK and Europe good examples of these cars are going for above £10,000 and pristine examples are above £20,000 in some cases. Even good examples of early poverty spec XJ8 3.2’s are £5,000+ in some cases. There are some around with severe faults and issues, but even they command a higher than average price in some cases. I recently saw an XJR which was missing its front bumper and had all sorts of small issues go for £3,400 which was astonishing considering.

To the OP if it isn’t going to put you out to buy the car and bring it home then it’s certainly worth exploring. I think the fault could be easily sorted, just a case of being patient and going through the systems. That’s what forums like this are for. Incidentally those rubber mats look like they could be OEM items which are rare, a quick look at the back would confirm it if there is a part number.

 

Everyone, thank you for replying!
I looked at the car today, it is in very good condition for its age! Minimum rust.
Headliner fabric is hanging on the back.

@motorcarman bulkhead connector does look to be burnt/melted. So hopefully that would be the reason for starter not cranking?
what would cause that to happen?

I did scan it with Launch scanner but didnt get much out of it...
- Some generic ECU code
- ABS code
- Climate control code.

I'm thinking about it..don't want to spend alot on it..



Thanks

 

There are several reasons that can cause a bulkhead connector to burn. Not the least of
which is a loose connection. That can cause arcing between connectors. Overvoltage caused
by a bad voltage regulator is another. Faulty or bad connectors are sometimes underrated for
the intended load, and there can be overload in the circuit by additional equipment being added.

 

Loose connection is the most common as RandyS stated but a failing starter drawing WAY too much current can add to the problem.

 

Wild guess the generic code was P1000 or P1111? the first means the emissions drive cycle isn't complete, the latter means it is. Neither are faults.