Hi All,

I picked up a used set of lower control arms, cleaned them up and have installed new ball joint and bushings.

I would now like to have these installed into my '01 XJR. I understand the job is a bit of a pain in the bum. Although I do have the spring compressor tool, my 4-post lift does not let me leave the front suspension hanging so I think I will have someone else do it. While I only need one side at the moment, seems sensible to just do both before getting everything aligned. I already did new shocks a few months ago.

Any idea on what I should expect to pay for labor? Any recommended shops in the western burbs of Philadelphia (Collegeville / King of Prussia area).

Thx

Mike

 

I just used a floor jack to get high enough to do the suspension up front with no lift. The tool was able to fit under the car with it up. I used one of the harbor freight 3 ton low profile jacks and a piece of 4x4 to jack it up, put a jackstand underneath and went to town.

I'm guessing if a shop did the pair, you'd be look at five hundred minimum, I'm thinking closer to 700. I don't know how many shops are comfortable with you bringing your own parts either. I don't go to shops but that's a thing I hear.

 

All you're needing to do is compress the spring somehow, then disconnect the ball joint ( this will be the hardest part ). Remove the Caster bolt, mark it before you remove it, then the 3 bolts bolting it to spring pan. Should only take you about an hour at the most per side. If you take it to a shop that's willing to do the job, should be less than an hour IMO.

 

A bit of a hike but Andrew at UK Motors Felton, PA is great. Curious why you aren't doing the uppers while you are at it as well.

 

Thanks for the replies. Some clarifying points and questions.

Did the one upper a few months ago for inspection. Yes, will do the other at same time. Uppers are pretty easy.

Given that I have a complete extra set of arms with spring pad all refreshed with new bushings and ball joints installed, it is sounding like this may be more of a DIY job than I feared. I thought there was a bunch of hassle with lowering or removing steering rack and then refitting everything? Is that not the case?

Sounds like:

1. Jack up front high.
2. Remove shocks.
3. Compress spring.
4. Pop ball joint
5. Loosen bolts holding steering rack to get access to long bolt(s) securing arm assembly???
6. Remove bolts for spring pan? (is this necessary, seems like it would come off on as complete assembly).
7. Fit new arm assembly since bushings and ball joint already installed.
9. Reverse process
10. Wheel alignment.

What am I missing or underestimating?

Thanks again, you all are the best!

 

The rack lowering is super easy, disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the knuckle, remove the 4 bolts holding rack to car. I used a jackstand to kind of let the rack hang a little.

Your sequence seems right from memory.

 

Thanks. Looking at the JTIS now, I may tackle the job this weekend. Looks fairly straightforward (famous last words).

JTIS says to disconnect steering column from pinion shaft but, if I am reading other posts correctly, this is not necessary as you just need to remove the rack bolts?? True??

 

I never removed the rack from the steering column shaft.

 

One more thing.

JTIS instructions for lower arms give a caution that "front and rear arm bushes differ in length. Ensure the correct bush is installed in each arm".

This does no make sense? They are the same part number for all 4 lower bushes?

 

re-aligning the spring pan with the control arms is difficult. You will need guide pins threaded into the control arms to align it. I cut the heads off of 3" bolts as guides
no need to remove the rack from the steering column but the bolts had thread sealer and took a while to remove

 

Thanks for the info.

I have the arm mostly off at this point. Got delayed when the tie rod arm ball joint started spinning. Had to hit get the bolt red hot with torch. A few observations.

1. JTIS says to pop upper ball joint and remove hub. Is this necessary / helpful. Seems like you could just leave the hub hanging there from the upper arm?

2. Cutting heads off of 3" bolts for guide pins sounds like a good idea. As I lowered spring pan I could not help but thinking, "this is not going to be fun to get back together".

3. That lower ball joint is a tough one to pop. Fortunately, I have a VW / Porsche tool that looks pretty much like the Jaguar item. It is item # T10444 which is available from Snap-On, you may have to go to their Porsche or VW dealer tools page, but anyone can order from there.

4. Did have to jack it up pretty high. I used the rolling jacks on my 4-post to raise it, then jack stands, insert risers, raise some more, etc.

5. Having the proper spring compressor makes it much easier. I really think it would be dangerous to use anything else.

5. Definitely glad I ordered a set of lower arms / spring pan off of eBay (fairly cheap) and had macine shop press in new bushings and ball joints. Even with a 20 ton HF press, this does not look like it would be easy. Really surprised that nobody offers the complete assembly (at least the arms) with everything ready to go.

Hopefully all back together by end of weekend.

Thx

 

Slow but steady progress.

This is one of those jobs that quickly leads to shipwrights disease. Since it is a PIA, you keep thinking, "may as well do this while I have everything off".

My latest add to the job is that I decided I should do the front wheel bearings while I essentially have the hub assembly off. Ordered the new bearings. Will probably let someone R&R those as I do not have the proper tool(s) and it sounds easy to break something without them.

In any event, once done I figure I should not have to worry about any suspension bits for another 90k miles.

 

You don't need to lower the spring pan, you just hold it in place.

We had MANY TSBs and Parts Bulletins about the control arm bushes over the years.
The original plastic ones deteriorated quickly and we often installed the rear arm bushing in place of the front one.

Here is a TSB for some clarification.

bob

bob

 

Almost back together. Just waiting to get hubs back from Indy shop, they said something was frozen so they will let them soak until Monday and then hopefully get the bearings replaced.

A lot of work but definitely not as bad a job as I feared. Having proper spring compressor and ball joint tools a big help as is air and a lift. Would be a lot less fun on your back with hand tools.

Anyway, hopefully off for alignment by mid-week

 

Finally, everything back together, will get an aligmment in the morning.

Only "uh-oh" was when I first took it for a test drive and heard scraping from the front. Took me longer than it should have to realize the brake backing plate was rubbing the edge of the rotor. Few whacks on a block of wood with hammer fixed that.

My biggest mistake was in sending out the hubs to an indy shop to have them R&R the bearings. I did so because I figured it would be faster, and not much more expensive, than ordering the rotor nut removal tool. OK, they did have some trouble removing it, had to let it soak for a few days before then hitting it with torch to get nut off, similar challenge with the big c-clips. I could have ordered the tool for about $100 with 2-day delivery, I already have an acetylene torch and a giant c-clip pliers (much bigger than shop has). In the end it was over a week (maybe 2) to get them back along with a bill for just shy of $500. Shop specializes in restoring older Jags, they tell me later that they do not get much newer stuff in the shop (I guess I know why).

Oh well, suspension, brakes, bearings now good as new and no worries for a long time.

 

good to read that you are all done. You can now enjoy a tight, quiet front end for many miles

 

I forget the size socket but the abs not can be removed using a modified craftsman 3/4 drive socket. Just mill down the angled part at the end so the end of the socket is flat. You should be able to get the nut off with that. I ended up using a 1 inch drive breaker bar with a reducer and a six got leverage pipe over the bar, and had fastened the hub to the wheel and had the wheel face down (with cardboard under the aluminum) on concrete with my dad standing on the tire. The rubber provided the grip necessary. Then I was able to break it loose. I have successfully used this technique on two x308 and 1 x100 front wheel bearings.

 

To echo 80s, I believe it's just a 2" 12 point socket that some people use to get the ABS nut off. But even so, I did the front bearings in mine, after buying the ABS socket for, I wanna say about 70-80 bucks? and using a buddy's press at his house. Even if I had bought a harbor freight press to do it myself, it still comes in a lot cheaper than a shop most often. But glad to hear you got everything buttoned up and tight!

 

I wound up buying the socket as I thought I might have to pick it up from them before they finished. Yes, around $90.

I now have the socket and the spring compression tool. Might decide to sell those, maybe make them available for rental. If you have these, a good set of tall jack-stands, and a harbor freight press, it is certainly a job that can be done at home.

 

Many shops get a small fortune and it irritates me. We have excellent independents posting on here like bob who charge MUCH fairer prices than anyone local to me. I wish I lived closer to some of them as occasionally I just don't want to do it, but then the cheap inside me prevents me from paying extortion prices that locals charge.

Harbor Freight Press - $150 (use a coupon)
Jackstands - $40 at Sears (get the SUV ones with the higher weight rating, they're rated in Chinese Pounds, which are much lighter than Standard ones)
Low Profile Big Harbor Freight Jack - $90
Rod and bits to make spring tool - $50
Craftsman 12 point Socket - $20

Add in wrenches and sockets, another $100-200; and you're in $450-550 in tools. Parts cost is maybe $250 for all of the bits and pieces from Rock Auto. Say you spend $800. You have a press, jack, jackstands, hand tools and a still useable 2 inch socket. Any job in the future those items are reusable! Next rebuild would only be $250.

My harbor freight press has done 2 supercharger rebuilds, 2 suspension rebuilds and pressed in i don't know how many wheel bearings for various people. It's cheap but plenty good for home use on smaller stuff like this. Get the 20 ton H Frame one.