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Some time back, I replaced the ball joints and bushings in the front suspension. I thought about doing the subframe bushings, but it seemed like a massive project, and it didn’t seem necessary. Fast forward to 2019, and I decided to replace the subframe bushings because there was a noticeable clunk. The job was not nearly as bad as I feared. The subframe itself weighs, maybe, 40 pounds. This was my biggest fear, because I figured it would be much heavier. The motor mounts were completely shot, which is where the noise was actually coming from.
This thread has no real purpose, other than to tell you that it’s not a huge job to get the subframe out. I took the subframe to a truck repair place, and had them press out the old bushings and press in the new ones. I also replaced the starter because it was dragging, and it was MUCH easier to get to, with the suspension and subframe out of the way. I also replaced the leaking power steering cooler.
I found it online. It was pretty expensive, but still cheaper than having someone do it. With some steel and a welder, it wouldn’t be too hard to invent something, but I don’t have access to either of those things, so this was the best option.
I forget what thread it was, pretty sure a Vee-mount replacement one, but someone had used a 2x4 or pair of, something like that, and other bits to make one with a ratchet strap or something. Cheaper by far, and seemed sturdy in the pictures, at least for the short-term.
This is a great post (pitchers are always good to have) and it got me thinking about what I might find under my engine.
I'm assuming that the noise associated with the engine mounts was connected to acceleration but is there any other diagnostic type of observation you could pass along aquifer?
My 99 XJR is off the road holding a pile of snow over my driveway while I wait out the salt application(s) we deal with here but when the weather breaks or global warming finally arrives, for more than a day, she'll be up in the air so I can swap out the knuckles I pressed new wheel bearings into.
That would probably be a good time to look into subframe bushings and motor mounts but I don't have any noises I'd connect with engine load.
Is there a way to remove and replace the engine mounts without removing the subframe though?
I can't remember if I've seen something about this here or not.
Aquifer, who did you use for your parts (mounts/ bushings)?
Did you have the Jaguar tool for the front springs or did you use something else?
Thanks again for the detailed post.
1. There was a clunk when going over bumps sometimes. I had previously replaced all ball joints and bushings in the front end, which was desperately needed, but had not done the subframe bushings or motor mounts.
2. They could never quite get the alignment right.
3. There was oil around the motor mounts and on the subframe that was not coming from the engine. The motor mounts are oil filled. Or they were until it all leaked out, so I figured they were bad but I couldn’t prove it until I got them out.
I think you could get to the motor mounts by trussing the engine and lowering the front of the subframe, pivoting it down in front. But once you’re that far, you might as well replace the subframe bushings too. I removed as much weight as I could before removing the subframe (springs, control arms, wishbones, steering rack, sway bar) so that I could handle the subframe by myself.
If you don’t have a PDF of the workshop manual, I HIGHLY recommend it. Sometimes the procedures are hard to find, but it’s very helpful to read the steps and see the illustrations.
For parts, I go to jaguarclassicparts.com to find the part number, and then plug the number into google and eBay. I almost always go to partsgeek.com or parts.com and search for the part number there too. I believe that OEM parts are the best, so I almost always use genuine Jaguar replacement parts if they are available. Especially if I’m working on something that is hard to get to. I want it to last so I don’t have to do it again. I have gotten parts from Jaguar Heaven salvage in California too. It always helps to have the part number from the classic parts website. That being said, I have Brembo rotors and Akebono pads all around. But those are easy to get to, so I wasnt’ worried, plus they are arguably better than OEM.
I would reiterate that you need to download a copy of the workshop manual if you don’t have one. The PDF that I found, probably through the forums here, has active links embedded in the PDF, so you can click the topic in the table of contents, and click on links within the procedures to jump to sub-steps. I use an app called PDF Expert, which allows me to save bookmarks as part of the PDF file. The table of contents isn’t always intuitive, so saving a bookmark makes life easier. I have an older iPad that I keep in my garage, and it pretty much only serves to run PDF Expert for the workshop manual. I refer to it constantly as I do each repair.
Super job, and I'll bet it handles a lot better. XJR's certainly chew through motor mounts, I did wonder if a poly bush style would be more durable than the oil damped unit fitted. It's the torque that kills them.
Lovely car!
Super job, and I'll bet it handles a lot better. XJR's certainly chew through motor mounts, I did wonder if a poly bush style would be more durable than the oil damped unit fitted. It's the torque that kills them.
Lovely car!
Thank you, Sean. Next up is the transmission mounts. I got the parts this week, so I will probably tackle it on Saturday. Looks pretty straight forward, according to the workshop manual. I probably shouldn’t have said that, should I.....??
02-10-2019, 10:08 PM
Front subframe bushing replacement
