I need to replace my upper v-mount bushings that connect the front suspension cross beam to the chassis of the car.

My method in question on #3

In lieu of a lift or engine brace, is it possible to:
1) Disconnect the steering, A/C, intake, etc.
2) Remove v-mount bolts from inside engine compartment
3) Jack up vehicle equally on either side with a floor jack?
4) Remove & replace v-mount bushes
5) Install new bolts and reverse?

The only thing I can think of is keeping the sub frame from tilting in either direction? What else should I be aware of?

Is there enough clearance to R&R the bushings? If I jack it up?

I'm getting creaking noises when I first pull out of the driveway in the morning and under certain stress loads on the front suspension. I also have rattles in my dash board that weren't there before.

I've replaced my with Powerflex poly bushes, upper/lower ball joints, stiffer H&R springs, etc. I think the v-mount issue was exposed more dramatically since the upgrade unless the noise can be something else but it definitely sounds closer to the cabin of the car than from the suspension parts below.

This is one of the last jobs on this car I am dreading and want to find the most efficient way to get it done. Thank you for any input in advance.

 

I've used a similar approach in the past but I supported the car with axle stands under the jacking points and lowered the subframe on a jack.

There are 2 main problems to be aware of.

1. Access to the bolts for the bush to the subframe is tricky but doable. They may be Torx bolts and not much room to get a tool on them - you should have a good selection of appropriate Torx bits before you start. Have some new bolts available for refitting (M8).

2. When pushing the subframe back up (or car down in your method) the bush needs to be twisted to get the pins to line up with the holes on the chassis. You will need an assistant to operate the jack slowly while you lever the bush to the correct angle.

 

Hi SD,

I would personally be inclined to suspect your Powerflex poly bushes of creaking before I suspected the Vee mounts. There are lots of reports of squeaks from poly bushes, depending on where they are in the suspension.


I understand your hesitance to do the job via the traditional method, but personally, I suspect you'd wind up doing just as much work or more trying it by your proposed method, unless Brendan can walk you through how he accomplished it. My suspicion is that once you lifted the body, you might find the subframe wanted to tilt forward or rearward under the weight of the engine, stressing and possibly damaging the engine mounts, possibly allowing the engine pulleys to come into contact with the cooling fan shroud, or worse, the radiator if you remove the shroud, and potentially putting you in a dangerous situation from which it might be difficult to recover.

At the very least, I would think you would have to disconnect the subframe rear pivots, transmission mount and driveshaft center bearing, and possibly any sections of exhaust that would prevent the body from lifting off of the driveline. Other issues might include fuel lines, transmission cooler lines, electrical harnesses, etc.

It's really not that hard to drop the subframe, either with an inexpensive engine support bar or some safely-devised substitute (I've seen photos of guys using aluminum extension ladders). At the link below are photos of the setup I used on our '93, with a cheap support bar from Harbor Freight:

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Brendan, can you give us some more info on the method you used? Did you support the engine, and was this on your X300?

Cheers,

Don

 

Don

You raised some valid questions and concerns.

When I used this approach it was on an XJ40 but the subframe and chassis is the same as you know.

The key to this method is that the rear subframe mounts stay on place. The bolt should be loosened enough to allow the subframe to pivot on the rear mount bolts. This means the subframe can only move down at the front, but not sideways or forward/back

I didn't support the engine, just let it come down with subframe. It's only necessary to lower the front of the subframe by about 30mm. Just enough to allow the locating pins on the V Mount to clear the chassis.

There is enough flexibility in the AC hoses, Fuel hoses, steering hoses, Brake hoses, exhaust rubbers etc to absorb that much movement without disconnecting them. I may have disconnected the steering column from the rack but I can't remember.

You do need to have confidence in your jack and your ability to control it. Placing some additional axle stands under the subframe as a back stop is a good idea just in case.

It does save a lot of work by doing it this way.

 

As I recall Motorcarman told me he removed the engine by removing the sub frame with the engine attached as described above. Less cosmetic damage that way.