Getting ready to replace my left engine mount and I've printed the instructions from the manual, but the line drawings are a little confusing. I did not find any help in the archives yet.

Does anyone have photos of the process?

I may try this on ramps rather than a lift and I do have a device to fit across the engine bay and lift the engine from above.

I am also not clear why the manual tells you to remove the left wheel or if the unbolting of the rack is to gain access to the engine mount bracket or to allow the engine to be lifted. I think I only need to lift the left side as the engine rocks up some 4 inches under torque because of the broken mount.

 

Do a search. It seems to me there were a few threads on this subject a few years back. I vaguely recall some photos as well.

 

I searched for engine mount and motor mount, but not much turned up; hence the post.

If someone has done this job, please comment on the wheel and steering rack removal - necessary or not. Be nice to know before I crawl under. Otherwise I may wait for the trans mount to get here and do them both on our British car club's lift.

 

I think the unbolting of the rack is so that you won't pull on the ps fluid hose when you lift the engine.

 

Just out of curiosity, what were your symptoms?

 

I just put the front wheels on ramps and slid under and it looks like there is not enough room to get the left engine mount bracket out unless the rack is lowered. Also looks like there would not be enough room for me to get under a lowered rack using the ramps, so I'll wait until I can use our club's lift.

If you give it gas with the brake on in drive, the engine raises up on the left side several inches. It did not raise on the right side in reverse so the diagnosis was a failed left engine mount. It does not look bad from underneath with no signs of a leak, but then it could have lost fluid long ago. The straps appear to be intact so they must be limiting the upward movement of the engine on that side to keep it from hitting the bonnett underside, but it still looks like a lot of movement when viewed from above.

The other symptom is a bad "clunk" when driving over shallow potholes or railroad tracks that can even feel like a kick in the seat of your pants; we figured the clunk is the transmission tail moving up and down and hitting the support bracket; a new transmission mount is due today, so I plan to do both at the same time. The transmission mount looks to be the easier of the two and the right engine mount looks like it would be a piece of cake VS the PITA left engine mount with the steering shaft and rack in the way. You can just see a bit of the mount in the V of the rack in the photo below.

 

I rare often get the message of Gearbox Fault. will changing the gearbox mount solve this ? Also in the pics given can you please circle the mount in both pics. Also are these for engine mount or the gearbox mount ? Please give details.

 

I just did this on my '04 VDP. Lower the steering rack, including disconnecting the steering shaft, remove the upper and lower mount nuts. (Upper is a bugger.) Using a screw jack on the left front corner of the engine, raise about 4" and maneuver the mount out. You may have to disconnect the air inlet from the throttle body. Mine was already off. No need to remove the wheel or loosen suspension.
I did this on my lift, didn't take any pics, but it is pretty straight forward, just be careful with the motor jacked up.

 

This is an old post but...
Had the mount actually failed and what was the failure mode? Leaked fluid, something broken?
I have an 04 that I am suspecting but no point in the aggravation if this is not the problem.

 

Mount was actually broken. No leaks, straps intact, visually fine. On moderate/hard acceleration from a stop, the air duct would pull off the throttle body and cause a severe surge. Diagnosed by accelerating in gear with brakes on, hood open, saw engine lift and pull on air duct. Broken mount was obvious after removal.

 

Did you use Jaguar parts or an aftermarket brand. I am seeing Jag parts for $155 and aftermarket at $35 each

 

I believe I bought it from Rockauto. The difference is a plastic (I believe) shield vs. a metal shield on the original, and no straps on it. Works fine, holds up under torque well. I only wonder if it breaks in the future, how high will the engine lift, without the restraining straps.

 

So I am waiting for my 3rd alternator and while I am waiting I thought I would replace both engine mounts at 108,000.

The alternator side is easy enough however the steering wheel shaft side not so much.

Try as I might I cannot move the bottom steering wheel clamp after taking the pinch bolt out.

If I take the upper clamp, the one that the steering shaft goes directly into, pinch bolt out will the shaft push up and out?

That spline shows no rust at all whereas the bottom one does show rust.

 

What did you use for the top bolts?