Look at post# 9 -
forum member motorcar says ABS reluctor/nut is usually very tight........The threads are normal RH, nothing goofy.
Don't forget the grease deflector.

Right Hand threaded nuts or bolts are removed by turning counter-clockwise (same as typical bolts and nuts are removed).

Also forum member says in post# 16 - For me a 12 point 2 inch socket worked great on the nut. I placed the wheel face down on the floor, and pressed down hard while using my impact gun. Came off nicely.

Jim Lombardi

 

just asking because we have gotten tools rented to remove the tie rod end and balljoints. The upper balljoint seperated so its stuck in the upper control arm and the other half is stuck on the hub assembly. The lower won't come out period!!! ALl this just to replace a damn wheel bearing!!! I'm thinkin of just replacing the entire hub with the ABS ring and wheel bearing because the ring won't come off either and we've beat and beat and it won't budge.

 

bumping an old thread since i need to replace my front bearings as well. considering that my vin number is the older 76mm version apart from getting two MJA1830AD part number wheel bearings is there anything else i need to get additionally when im replacing wheel bearings on both sides. or is it just a direct swap of the bearings and drive away.

 

LWB 3.2? interesting car....anyway prepare for work, they're not easy to get to, you need the ABS rotor nut socket, maybe find a good indie with Jag experience for this job. If you're tool handy then it's just a pita!

 

Yala, several members have suggested it's easy and cheaper to just break the abs ring with a cold chisel and replace it. I have no direct experience, just commenting on what I have read here. Hopefully someone who has done this will join the discussion.

 

is there any instruction sheet to do this job. Did a timing chain, etc and the directions were easy to find. So far I can not find instructions to do this job. Need tool needed (part numbers etc.) to do the job. Anyways sure I can do this just want to be sure I do it right. Also which direction to remove, etc not sure of.

 

timsalyer

Here are photos in the jag-lovers site on wheel bearing replacement:

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap...?id=1140561802

Look at this other thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-needed-80922/

Here are 2 PDF files that I created from the JTIS21 shop repair manual:

Wheel Bearing R&I

1998 XJ Wheel Bearing R&I.pdf

Wheel Knuckle & Hub

1998 XJ Wheel Knuckle & Hub R&I.pdf

Part number Front Wheel Bearing for 1998 XJ series is 513058 (National Front Wheel Taper Bearing).

advancedautoparts.com has it for $27.99: $39.99 less $12 (promo code TRT30) and free shipping to your local store (pickup at store option).

We had our 2001 XJ8 front passenger side wheel bearing replaced at 98000 miles - May 2011 - local indy mechanic - 2.4 hours labor @ $80/hr plus $18 for wheel bearing - plus sales tax totaled $224.00.


Jim Lombardi

 

jimlombardi Thank you for the pics helps lots. Got it done after a fashion.

 

My Daimler Super V8 has just had an MOT advisory that both front wheel bearings are loose. VIN indicates the 76mm bearings are fitted. The car weighs 1800kgs (according to my handbook) and I live in Dorset, UK where the roads have lots of corners which I like going around fast. I need the 80mm bearings. Whose idea was it to do away with adjustable tapered rollers?

From the wisdom posted here, I gather that I just need to source a pair of the later vertical links and hubs which will be a straight swop. Please confirm that my thinking is correct. I won't try to replace the bearings myself as I don't have a workshop as such, just a tool box on a trolley and a domestic garage. The brakes need an overhaul so I'll do that at the same time. Thanks

 

Can we get someone to confirm this? I have a '98 and my passenger wheel bearing has just the slightest sound coming from it. It has very little play, but from past experience with bearings once they start to go, they go fast. My drivers side is really hard to rotate the tire when off the ground so I think it needs greased, but if I have it out I would go ahead and replace it too.

The car has been sitting for a few years and I'm trying to get it going again. Put a used rebuilt transmission in it and it shifts smooth, new front shocks, and shock mounts. There was a ?rear stability bar? that was causing a clunk on starting and stopping, it has loose bolts, tightened those and it fixed that. But that's all for another thread.

My dad, Tim Salyer, did his passenger front earlier in this thread and now he needs to do his drivers side. We have decided that we want to buy a press.

Can someone tell me what one would need to change it from the smaller bearing size to the larger 80mm one?

Happy driving!

 

Hello Satakewawa

In the end I took the car to a Jaguar specialist - Haynes Museum workshop at Sparkford, Somerset - and they replaced the original bearings. I had noticed uneven tyre wear although the pressures were fine.

I found that the larger bearings were fitted with the increase in brake disc diameter on later models. So it's do-able if you can get the parts at a reasonable price.

Hope your renovation goes well.

 

Here in the US, the 98's being a one year trick pony have the smaller front wheel bearings. I'll have to take your word that it's 76mm since I didn't measure them. I recently changed out both front knuckles on my 98' XJR to a 99' and they have the larger wheel bearings. If yours are making noise and you plan on keeping the car, get them changed to the later ones.

 

I agree!! You can go to a salvage yard and buy a set of vertical links from 1999-2003 XJ8 and you will have the 80mm bearings.

You can also just replace the noisy 76mm bearing in your car.

Your choice.

bob

 

I asked the service manager at a Jaguar main agent if fitting the larger bearings would make any great difference to service life, particularly as I don't use the car much. He said that it wouldn't.

I think the main advantage of the larger links is that bigger brake discs were fitted. This may have been the primary reason why Jaguar beefed the front end. So | I decided to uprate the standard brakes using EBC parts (Yellowstuff pads and premium plain discs) and HEL braided hoses. For such a heavy fast car, I consider the standard Jaguar brakes to be only adequate. The Yellowstuff pads are suitable for track use and have a wide heat range.

I've also changed the tyres to Goodyear Vector 4Seasons as the specified Goodyear P6000 is a very old design. Now the top speed is limited to 149mph (The Goodyears are V-rated) - not something that is going to bother me during everyday motoring in the speed camera-infested UK.

 

That sounds like a really easy swap. My dad just bought a 20 ton press really cheap, so I think I'm going to just change the bearings since I'm a little low on funds at the moment being in between jobs. But when I get some saved up I plan on upgrading the front brakes and bearings. I'm heading to the parts store now, hopefully I can get them done today and update tomorrow.

Thanks for all your help!

 

Let's put it this way.................. I have replaced MANY 76mm bearings and very FEW 80mm bearings. I keep the 76mm bearing in stock but I don't keep the 80mm.

If I was going to keep the car I would install 80mm hub assys.

bob

 

Bob, can I assume the same would be true for my 97 XK8? That is, swap a later XK8 hub assembly, like 99-02?

 

I am pretty sure that ALL 4.0 XK vertical links are interchangeable. The 1999 onward should be 80mm.

bob

 

I will probably change them over in time, but seeing as the originals lasted about 105k miles I feel comfortable with using the 76 mm ones since I need to get the car back on the road. My dad's is the 80 mm and both of his went out sooner. I think mine only went out on my passenger side because the car had been sitting for several years outside waiting for a transmission. My other 98' probably still has its original ones too.

 

Working on my dad's car we were able to get the wheel bearing on with ease, but the hub is being stubborn.

Part of the old bearing broke off and got stuck on the hub. We got that off and the hub is being stubborn going back on. Is this normal or should we look at getting a new hub? It seems to be in good shape, but it just doesn't want to go through the new bearing. Are there any tricks or something we are missing?

Thanks for your help.