Hello..

Parked this 98 xjr 7 years ago coz of cracked timing chain glide.

After 7 years: Finally timing done, fuel filter replaced, old gas out new gas in.

Present: no fuel pressure at the rail, fuel relays checked and good. I think fuel pumps gone bad.

Am I missing any important procedure before I order new pumps. And if I need them what are the choices?

Thanks in advance

Amir..

 

Denso 950-0172 $83 each.
Just to clarify, make sure you get 2.

 

Oil Change.
There is 2 fuels pumps btw.
I would put new fluids in like Gearbox fluid, ENGINE OIL is a must, and Engine Coolant change and fill.
New battery.
Air filter, and check for any nests.
How many miles?
If its is around or above 80000 then I would change the spark plugs if have not been changed already.
The car has been sitting for a while so I would do those things before first initial start up. Most specifically engine oil.
Good Luck!

 

2 fuel pumps for sure !

Oh yeah new plugs and radiator coolant done. Once I start her Ill finish tranny service, brake and power steering flush refill..

Mobil one synthetic oil/filter replaced zero miles ago but in 2010. Do I still need to replace it.?

Thanks for help...

 

Hard one, I would change it just in case. Remember that whenever you change your oil 1 quart of the old oil stays in so that old old oil sat in with the old oil.

 

check the colour of the oil and how many miles on the car?

 

I put 90k miles on it myself, total mileage 120k.

I checked the engine oil and its brand new. Whenever I oil change in my car I always leave it unplug for overnight, refill in the morning and go for a drive.

 

Zero miles and 7 years old I would definitely change it.

 

Make sure that's the denso pump kit with the screens - my screen disintegrated when I pulled the old pump out. Depending on how you're doing the fuel pumps, I'd do the inline fuel filter at the same time. It's cheap and may as well since it's a combined system.

On the oil, definitely replace.

 

They have the screens, short hoses, hose clamps and adapter wiring harness if need be.

 

Fuel pump wise, the only time my Jag let me down was when the second and in my case final fuel pump failed. Towed home, diagnosed the problem with the help of the Forum archives, outsourced the repairs (I'm too old to balance a full fuel tank on my chest!!) to a local indie shop who did the pumps (Denso) screens, filter, etc. for $1400 which was about 1.5% of the cars original price. That was 5 years ago. If it's pumps you gotta do, consider my solution. Oh yea, change the oil!
Buck

 

Definitely both pumps with screen and stuff. Thanks guys!!

I'm not sure how to do that. Some say cut the metal piece over fuel tank and replace pumps, it save lot of time and aggravation.

Can I really do chop and cut on my xjr? Since it will go behind the cushion anyway. I wouldn't mind if it's been done on xjr.

 

A lot have cut a hole in the parcel shelf, but I personally would not do it. I changed the pumps by removing the tank and if you follow the JTIS procedure it really isn't that bad, as long as there is very little gas left in the tank.

Maneuvering and working with the pumps and strainers inside the tank was quite a feat of coordination, even with the tank sitting in my driveway. It seems that trying to do all that through a hole with the back glass right in your face would be more labor intensive than removing the tank. Remember though, I am an amateur mechanic. Very amateur, haha. But that's my opinion for what it's worth...

 

I'm not a fan of cutting the car up either, less potential damage if done the correct way, hacking at the parcel shelf can lead to cracked rear screen, sparks into the trunk, wiring or yourself cut etc.
There's a neat trick to disconnect the fuel lines using heating pipe, but I can't find the post! If you can't get your arms up far enough find someone with thin forearms to push the fuel line tool home. This part of the job is the main cause of the hack bodge. Once the tank is free it's not a difficult thing to do.

The oil's a no brainer

 

Well, time to Order some fuel pump kits, meanwhile ill start removing carpets seats and a take a close look. So I have 2 options ,JTIS procedure which I prefer too and cut body's 6" in dia to expose fuel tank mouth.

Let's do it!

Thanks again y'all



Thanks again

 

found the custom too guide: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ank-out-34473/ also JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I dropped the rear subframe for other things so I just ended up being able to put a plastic tool in there, without fully taking the rear subframe out it's real tricky to disconnect those lines.

Run the tank down to empty if possible, I got mine down to the top of the red area on the fuel gauge, the pumps were still half submerged in fuel so I just put some gloves on and worked with it... Working around in there was already a bit tricky with the tank out and on the ground, I'm sure it'd be a lot worse underneath the parcel shelf while being surrounded in fuel fumes.

The fuel tank removal itself isn't too bad, I did need help to get it back in but it wasn't all bad. Got a creak back there now occasionally, hoping it's the shock mounts and not something with the tank positioning.

 

I had my indi replace the tank gasket as well as the pumps and filters ... I think they charged me 4 hours labor .... they did an oil change/rotate.

 

I agree with you nilanium. working in a car with open gas and fumes, and I don't even know how long it's gonna take me to complete 2 pumps procedure.

I rather work long and slow then work with ticking time bomb on my head.

Thanks again fellows..

 

Your draining it anyways to eliminate the old gas, so tank will be lite....replace filter then also. Check your breather while under there to prevent ye ol' 0455. I simply used two 2x4's (pointing front to back) to gap the spare and battery well and slid it out and in on them. I left the tank in the trunk on the 2x4's, took 2-3 hrs to change the pumps...being very diligent to cover my tracks and all crimps were tight and tank was spotless.
A friend is not a must, but is very useful guiding the tank back as you maneuver the filler neck off its mount and remounting it. The friend can also be sure you don't go too far before snapping that wire connection you may have missed.
My biggest issue is what nilanium describes for those connectors. I fabbed a piece of 1/2" electrical conduit (doesn't spark), die ground a slot piece out and made a cone taper until it fit snug on the line and it worked well getting out the lines. Draining the fuel took the longest, along with modifying that conduit. My standard sleeve A/C...fuel releases weren't deep enough. But that was my experience, hopefully yours is better.

 

Do a search so you know what needs to be modified -- some of the pumps need the rubber mount modified .. and I think all except OE require the connector splice.

I believe motorcarman had a post to the pump he uses and what needs to be done.

My indi installs my parts -- so it had to be OE ... to avoid the splice.