Here is a link fro the sticky's at the top of this forum on how to replace the fuel pump

https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...s_Rev._1.3.pdf

Here is a link to a thread when I changed the fuel pump on 2 different xk8's. In this thread I mentioned where I got the fuel pumps for under $90. They were Denso fuel pumps, the same as Gus used.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-178034/

 

See if this helps.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

I had to look again and see that your car is an XJ not an XK so my procedure may differ.

 

Well, after a week of torture I finally have the car running with no leaks.

After destroying the fuel pressure line by trying to access the top of the tank without disconnecting the lines from under the car, I order a new line and the brown truck delivery people lost the part in my town. Scanned in ABQ and seen no more. The next day I re-ordered the parts and had to overnight them. Meanwhile here in ABQ, it is almost impossible to find a rental (my brother was using his daughter's car and wrecked it - Lexus). So I loaned him my old 745 for a few days.

Second order arrived today after the overnight fee of $67. Filter was wrong part on website.

Besides that, I had the hardest time spotting the line connections. Finally jammed my small arm up there and got the release in place. Could not get a grip on the broken line to pull it out so I used long hooked needle nose pliers. Worked it out (right before I tossed in the towel). Managed to get the line in place, attached the new filter that I purchased locally for $58 (what a rip local Jag *******), without cross threading it. Car fired right up no leaks. Phew!

Brother started the car later and has a CEL. My guess is one of the vacuum lines that was super hard to get off on top of the tank split. I'll scan it tomorrow and see.

Thanks again for the help and tips. Glad some of my stress is gone.

 

Just noticed discussion on XJ8 Fuel Pump replacements. Had to replace fuel pump in our 2001 Vanden Plas--much like the XJ8s I think--last year. Lots of bad calls from the factory documentation. Car was fortunately stuck in our garage which unfortunately has no lift.
I took the fuel tank removal approach since I was not bullish on cutting body work. Really tough: JAGUAR FOR SALE--GET IT NOW!!
Removing fuel is tough. Baffles in tank make it hard to siphon fuel out, but, got it down to about two gallons. Couldn't even tell it was that amount. Why not just drain it, you say? Reason is, on this vehicle you can't feel or even see the fuel line connectors at the tank. So, pulling a line-in this scenario the return line-then quickly popping in a drain line was out of the question. Natural method would be disconnecting the supply line at the fuel filter behind the left rear wheel. BUT, the failed pump-the original-was a vane type that won't pass fluid while stopped, this one was seized. I didn't try it, but, I'm pretty sure I couldn't have drawn return fuel from the tap on the fuel rail. Removing the differential would open view and of the lines, but, -----.
SO: I fab'd three ~24" access rods that could reach the fuel tank line connectors from just inside and near the OD of the right rear wheel. The first rod has a 4-40 thread to screw into the side of a home rolled PVC QD release sleeve and snap it onto the fuel line. The next 24" rod resembles a pickle fork that slips over the fuel line and is slid next to the QD release sleeve. The last rod has a cable actuated clamp that clamps onto the fuel line to provide the backstop for the pickle fork to push the release sleeve into the QD.
Like most things, this sounds easier than it is. Getting these rods into place needs mirrors or some newer, nice electro-optics so you can see where the rod ends are going. And, the clamp needs to be pretty good because the lines are slippery, powder coated--good stuff.
Can't recall whether lines are 5/16" or 3/8".
Beyond all the thinking and tool making all worked out well. Used the clamp tool on the lines to pry them back into the connectors. Only last trick needed was to by-pass the fuel pump voltage controller which had closed down the voltage output to save itself against the seized pump motor. The engine just needed to run a few seconds to 'fool' the pump voltage controller back into operation.
If it would be of help for anyone, I'll see if I can get some readable pics of the line access tools.