I'm in the middle of replacing the fuel pump. I been following Gus's guide on his site, linked below, and has been spot on.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I just got the pump out and was inspecting it when I noticed one of the wires going to the pump was out of its connector. Tried to remove what was left of the connector and it just fell apart. Pic of wires and what is left of the connector below. I checked the pump and it works perfectly. I am still going to put the new one in.

If you might recall this is the car that stalled on the freeway a couple of months ago. The fuel pump relay was bad and I replaced it. When I took the bad relay out it was warm.

Is it possible the bad relay caused this connector to go bad or the bad connector at the fuel pump made the relay fail?

Well back to getting it back together.

 

Bob,
The connector was obviously arcing under load, hence the burning of the plastic housing. If anything, I imagine that would do more harm to the pump than the relay that feeds it. IMO it's unlikely the failure of either connector or relay would cause failure of the other.

Given how easy it isn't to replace the pump I'm with you on swopping it now you've got it all apart. Hate doing the same job twice.


Good luck,
Mike

 

Thanks Mike. I don't know if it is just me or I'm old fashion but I'm not too crazy about electrical wires in gasoline.

Just completed job and car started up the second time. The first time I tried to start it fuel came from under the car. Apparently I didn't have the fuel line in all the way. I even pulled on it to make sure it was in. I learned that I need to see the green from the lock to be sure it is seated all the way.

Got this one done and next week I get to do it again on my 2000 xk8. Having doing it once next time should go quicker.

Again thanks to Gus for his imformation resources.

 

I'm sure it's OK inasmuch as I've not heard of any exploding fuel tanks, but I get what you mean about the mix. Doesn't seem right when you think of it - using gasoline as a coolant!

The pump you removed is probably OK and the problem was down to the bad connector, but you don't want the excitement of a repeat stall. Must have been scary.

So you get to do the job twice anyways

Best,
Mike

 

Bob, I don't look forward to the day I have to do mine. I was wondering, given what you went through to replace through is one, would just drilling the hole in the rear to get easy access to the pump be worth it?

. Knowing you, you've already read about this but wanted to send a friendly reminder and ask someone who has just put one in and is looking at another.

John

 

John it just me again but I don't like cutting holes in the structure of the car. Being a convertable it is already weaker than a coupe. Also I like a challenge. I tried to make a tool to make it easier to get the fuel lines off and it didn't work out. I ended up using Gus's way with the release tool on a string. After figuring out how to do it it only took me 10 minutes to get them loose. The fuel lines are the most difficult part and the rest is in the trunk. Also I wanted to see clearly in the tank and clean it if necessarily, but it was nice and clean eccept for a couple of pieces from the connector.

It took me about 6 hours today as I was trying to figure things out. I think I can knock a couple of hours off that next time since I think I know what I'm doing.

 

I would suspect a 'cloggy' fuel filter would cause higher pressure and more load on the pump than a faulty relay. You can carefully pry the case off the relay to inspect the contacts. I would replace it if the contacts are burnt.

Jaguar recommends fuel filter replacement every 30K miles.

Pump life seems to be around 100K miles or 10 years.
I usually end up replacing the link harness for overload/melted contacts less than half the time.

bob

 

Bob the filter might have been the cause. I changed the filter last week when it first stalled thinking it might be plugged. It was dirty. It wasn't the original but who knows the last time it was changed. The car sat for three years becfore I got it.

The relay was changed two months ago after it stalled on the freeway. At that time the car would stall after being ran for a few minutes. After it stalled the relay was fairly warm. When I replaced it it solved the problem until this set of recent stalls.

I replaced the link harness with the fuel pump. So everything is new and it runs great. Hopefully this takes care of this issue.

 

Thought I'd post what pump I used and cost.

The pump I got was the Denso 950-0172. This kit includes the strainer, the pig tail that plugs into the pump, and a few other things.

I order the first pump through Advanced Auto. They had a 25% discount with free snail shipping. It's total price with tax was 89.30. I ordered it on March 2nd and I get it March 13th.

The second pump I got from Walmart. They have a pickup counter where you can order things and pick them up at you local store. This one I paid a total of 80.47 with tax. I ordered it after hours on March 6th and it was at the store for pickup on March 9th. So the pump I ordered second came first and is what I put in this car.

 

Just finished replacing mine and it is a very very difficult job. My advice is "Don't Do It - this is definitely a job for pros" Dealer wanted 2445 but couldn't get to it for a month.

Be sure and check all relevant fuses, relays, gas gage, bad gas, fuel filter first. The plastic pipes will easily break off the old fuel pump assembly..

The Gus method works with the plastic removal fitting on a string. I made two tools but wound up just using the super long Harbor freight flathead screwdriver.

You must somehow get the plastic fitting through the opening and onto the pipe between two of the longer fingers on your left hand (being the smallest hand and forearm).

It takes about 40 tries each until your hands and fingers are shaking uncontrollably. What I didn't see in other threads is that you may need to support the fuel tank from the trunk side to keep it from moving when you try to press in the fittings.

I had given up and was spraying threads to start the equally challenging process of dropping the rear end to create clearance when I noticed one of the pipes was miraculously loose. All I had done was adjust the tank position in the trunk.

You can actuate (PRESS IN BOTH SIDES OF WITH THE SCREWDRIVER) the plastic fitting at the joint and the pipe will still not come out because of clearance. I snapped the fitting on the other side (painfully) ran it up to the joint and depressed both sides of the fitting with the screwdriver (you can get one side of the hard one from the left side of the crankshaft, all others from right side). Couldn't pull it out with my finger under the car but went around and carefully adjusted the tank at it popped out.

Your results may vary, but I had a lot more luck actuating both sides of the fitting under the car and then pulling lightly on the tank than trying to get the pipe out under the car.

Similarly I had to brace the tank in the trunk to pop the fitting in without moving the tank when replacing the pipes. I could tell the pipe would not pull out from under the car with a long finger.

I suspect that a knowlegable pro could loosen the rear end mounting bolts a half inch and get that much more clearance, hopefully removing very little else. I've done it on other makes to get clearance above the engine.

Probably don't want the liability - if the rear end isn't supported with a good jack it will fall on you if you loosen too much!!

Medium gloves are tight on me and large are loose. I have reasonably sized forearms, It was definitely touch and go...

 

I used to charge 4 hours to replace the pump and a little extra for the XKR/XJR 4.0 cars.(2 pumps for the SuperCharged)

It is not difficult if you have a lift and have done a few dozen.

The XK is a little tighter access so sometimes I drop the rear suspension a few inches.

Glad it is done and you got it.

I never move the tank until the fuel lines are FREE from the tank underneath. The pipes are NLA and it causes a lot more work and money.

 

So I drove it with 5 gallons of fuel and no leak. I filled it up and it started leaking. Now I am starting over. Only leaked 1/8 tank and stopped at 7/8.

I got some additional tools and tried to better snap the fuel lines in from underneath but have had no luck. I drive the car it starts leaking. Probably fuel line pressurizing.

My siphon doesn't work through the filler cap. I jacked up the back, removed the fuel line at the Filter, and got the customary few cups of fuel. I was planning on running the fuel pump. Interestingly, before turning on the ignition and actuating the fuel pump, fuel stopped coming out of the fuel line for a full minute, then started up again with a reasonable stream that has continued for most or all of the fuel in the tank.

Obviously I will pay more attention to the condition of the connections at the tank (stuffer pins and seals) than I did the first time. Also fuel line alignment with tank.

I don't know if I can do this again and have it still leak. Should I proactively buy new stuffer pins ($60) as they take a few days to arrive?

Once I have the tank out, I am considering blowing out the fuel lines, cutting them behind the tank and installing three foot flexible extensions with the Parker 39705 Super Flex fuel hose (100 psi and 257 F) and four of the Dorman 5/16 compression fitting to 5/16 hose barb fittings and stainless Parker worm gear clamps (400 psi). I will tie a string in the middle of each hose to keep them from going under the tank when I push it back. If the Fuel line is cobbled going into the tanks I am hoping Dorman 5/16 fuel line stubs will replace. I would put one fitting perpindicular to the tank at the stub out, and one parallel to the tank for each hose to help reduce tight bends.

Now that I may be able to lower the shocks a couple inches, presumably without removing the muffler systems et al, I may give this a shot before cutting into my fuel lines...