Hi all,

I've got an issue with my 99 XJR. It concerns the interior lights, the wing mirrors and steering column.

Almost every other time I switch the car on, the mirrors, and the steering column do not adjust. And without doing anything, they would start working on the next start of the car.

The interior (courtesy) lights, just randomly switch on whilst driving. This is one up the front and the two rear on the sides. Seems to be a connection issue, but where do I start?

I would appreciate it if anyone could suggest where I start with the problems above.

 

It might sound strange, but I would first try a spray lubricant on the driver door lock assembly. Give it a good lube thru the key hole and the latch side.
It is possible that a mirco-switch is not setting and letting the BPM know that the door is closed and the car is occupied.

 

Thanks.

I have just done that. I'm guessing this will be for the interior lights coming on?

Incidentally, with the mirrors and steering column: I've noticed that they adjust fine when the ignition is on the second position, but as soon as I start the car, they fail to adjust.

 

The ignitions switch has 3 rotary contacts and 1 linear key in , key out contact . It is the last one that commands the car to go into the shutdown sequence . What I suspect is the key in , key out contact . Clean the switch with some alcohol spray . Carb or brake cleaner may harm the plastic as well as alcohol to a lesser extend so keep it off the plastic trim . Then spray some oil product or graphite spray . There are different recommendations on what product to use as each it different

Shall we proceed ?

Findings on ignition Switch : Jaguar part # LNA6507BA

By removing connector FC54 9 inches straight forward of switch found ground pin 5 contaminated , cleaned

The pin side of the connector pops off the bracket straight down to be able to hold in free space .

Black wire socket position 5 to ground = 0

.........On the pin side of the connector :

Black wire pin position 5 to pin 1 key position 2 = 50 ohms Run position

Black wire pin position 5 to pin 2 key position 1 and 2 = 0 ohms Acc position

Black wire pin position 5 to pin 3 key position 3 = 30 ohms and bad large waver as moving key radially ( needs replacing later ) Starter

Black wire pin position 5 to pin 4 key insert = o ohms , key removal = open ohms this is the security ECU input

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-96-97-J...EAAOxywOtSXf2r

 

Thanks Lady P.

To begin with I have applied some spray lubricant to around the ignition keyhole area. Unless it's a pure coincidence, no sooner had I applied the lubricant, inserted the key, the 'comfortable exit' started working.

If the above is not permanent (or indeed just a coincidence) , I'll have to set aside a day to remove the switch and investigate further.

 

Unfortunately, applying contact cleaner without opening anything up has not resolved the problem.

The problem almost definitely seems related to the ignition switch. Moving the key about when inserted in ignition, causes the the interior lights to come on, as well intermittently allow the auto adjust steering, mirrors, etc to work.

Would simply changing the entire ignition switch with a known good one resolve the issue? If so, how easy is it to change?

 

Before removing the switch might try cleaning the switch and key barrel tumblers thoroughly with a solvent to remove the gummed up lubricant . Move the key all around to exercise the switches and tumbler slides . Protect the plastic and carpet as the solvent will harm the plastic as it did with mine . There are different opinions on what kind of lubricant to go back in with as it dries back out and you end back up with a gummed up situation like in a WD - 40 type lubricant . As a temporary solution it works . Some lubricants like a dry graphite or a lithium grease I heard mentioned and graphite in my opinion looks like the best long term .

Protect the plastic as the sheen of the 20 year old material has disintegrated will come off

 

I have sprayed a Liberal amount of contact cleaner in the ignition barrel (by holding the 'keyhole guard' open), then inserting the key and moving it around several times.

Are you saying using an electrical contact cleaner alone is not sufficient and I also need to apply a recommended lubricant afterwards?

 

Yes but one that wont dry out and leave a gummy binding residue . Electrical cleaner does not have a lubricating component for the motion of any device . Carb cleaner will work to clean

 

At the risk of being way off - have you tried a hard reset?
Following that, have a look at the wiring solder points onto the plug that connects to the ignition barrel. Access is a couple of pozi screws on the upper column cover.

 

How is a hard reset performed? Disconnect battery, and touch terminal to an earth point?

If hard reset does not work, I'll try and access the barrel, check the connections and apply some graphite lubricant.

 

Hard Reset :

Disconnect stereo head unit so it doesn't lock out , anti theft feature not on all country regions .

Turn key to " on " run position , not start

Remove both battery terminals .

Touch both terminal wires together , the longer the better ( sometimes overnight ) but don't let terminal wires retouch the battery post as covering battery with a towel helps .

Turn key back to " off "

Reconnect battery

On restarting the engine it will run rough until the engine ECU relearns it's perimeters like LTFT and others .