Leaky Transmission Cooler Line - Can't Drive! Help!
Hi all, sorry if this has been covered in previous posts but I am new to the navigation of the forums here (actually new to everything) and I searched but maybe didn't search the right way. Anyway, this problem has gotten me down. I have a leaking transmission cooler line and I just can't see exactly where it is so I can fix it or (remove it and replace it), but do I know for sure it's above the front axle. I had the car jacked up but I can't see the tube. It seems like it's blocked by everything. I thought it would a good idea to jack the engine up to enable me to possibly see the tube better but now I can't find the bottom nuts for the motor mounts. Has anyone had this particular leaky tube (perhaps many people have had the same problem and can advise). Really don't want to spend $800 with a technician fixing what is probably a simple problem. I have already was given ZF transmission fluid for this project and I have installed the aftermarket custom transmission dipstick someone gave me as a gift to check fluid level as this leak started small and has gotten faster.
Thanks for any help any of you can give me.
Thanks for any help any of you can give me.
The most common cause that I've seen is the cooler line and one of the PAS hoses chaffing. The metal-to-rubber crimp connection rubs a hole in the gearbox cooler line and leaks.
I have repaired a line for a customer by cleaning the cooler line with solvent and placing a 3 inch section of large diameter fuel line over the leak. I sliced the hose lengthwise and coated the inside with RTV. I used hose clamps to hold the hose section in place and allowed to dry.
I told the customer that I would not guaranty it to hold up but it was worth a try as an inexpensive solution.
It has been a few years and it still is not leaking. It was a small seep and there is not mush pressure so it might work if you can get to the leaking section.
The hose will also keep the line from chaffing and more damage.
Just a quick way that might work for you.
Replacing the line is the preferred method of repair but it is labor intensive.
bob gauff
I have repaired a line for a customer by cleaning the cooler line with solvent and placing a 3 inch section of large diameter fuel line over the leak. I sliced the hose lengthwise and coated the inside with RTV. I used hose clamps to hold the hose section in place and allowed to dry.
I told the customer that I would not guaranty it to hold up but it was worth a try as an inexpensive solution.
It has been a few years and it still is not leaking. It was a small seep and there is not mush pressure so it might work if you can get to the leaking section.
The hose will also keep the line from chaffing and more damage.
Just a quick way that might work for you.
Replacing the line is the preferred method of repair but it is labor intensive.
bob gauff
The most common cause that I've seen is the cooler line and one of the PAS hoses chaffing. The metal-to-rubber crimp connection rubs a hole in the gearbox cooler line and leaks.
I have repaired a line for a customer by cleaning the cooler line with solvent and placing a 3 inch section of large diameter fuel line over the leak. I sliced the hose lengthwise and coated the inside with RTV. I used hose clamps to hold the hose section in place and allowed to dry.
I told the customer that I would not guaranty it to hold up but it was worth a try as an inexpensive solution.
It has been a few years and it still is not leaking. It was a small seep and there is not mush pressure so it might work if you can get to the leaking section.
The hose will also keep the line from chaffing and more damage.
Just a quick way that might work for you.
Replacing the line is the preferred method of repair but it is labor intensive.
bob gauff
I have repaired a line for a customer by cleaning the cooler line with solvent and placing a 3 inch section of large diameter fuel line over the leak. I sliced the hose lengthwise and coated the inside with RTV. I used hose clamps to hold the hose section in place and allowed to dry.
I told the customer that I would not guaranty it to hold up but it was worth a try as an inexpensive solution.
It has been a few years and it still is not leaking. It was a small seep and there is not mush pressure so it might work if you can get to the leaking section.
The hose will also keep the line from chaffing and more damage.
Just a quick way that might work for you.
Replacing the line is the preferred method of repair but it is labor intensive.
bob gauff
I am laying on my back under the car -- would it be better to have my feet toward the rear of the car? I hate to be completely sandwiched under the car but I will do what I have to do if it's necessary.
Any and all help with this is appreciated.
Thanks,
Crank
Dear Bob, that's an excellent tip! I will certainly give it a try. Anything to save some labor time and replacing the leaking section with some high quality fuel hose and hose clamps is nothing for me as a general matter. But the problem is that I think I may be peering in from the wrong angle or something. I can only see both ends of what I *think* is the culprit leaking tube. So I can't see the leaking section of it. Do you have any advice about how to see the section that's leaking, i.e., the rest of the tube? Perhaps jack up the engine? Or remove both wheels and jack up the engine?
I am laying on my back under the car -- would it be better to have my feet toward the rear of the car? I hate to be completely sandwiched under the car but I will do what I have to do if it's necessary.
Any and all help with this is appreciated.
Thanks,
Crank
I am laying on my back under the car -- would it be better to have my feet toward the rear of the car? I hate to be completely sandwiched under the car but I will do what I have to do if it's necessary.
Any and all help with this is appreciated.
Thanks,
Crank
Crank:
Youdiod not say you had a good pair of heavy duty jack stands, but if not, GET SOME. They are not too expensive and when used properly to support the car on the correct body points, it is completely safe to get under the car.
Youdiod not say you had a good pair of heavy duty jack stands, but if not, GET SOME. They are not too expensive and when used properly to support the car on the correct body points, it is completely safe to get under the car.
And always use a backup in case one fails.
I have no suggestion as to how to find the leak. I have 2 car lifts in my shop so I just walk around under the car.
I might have dropped the steering rack down or moved other components but I did not drop the subframe or lift the engine.
Sorry I don't remember exactly how I did it but it was repaired.
bob gauff
I might have dropped the steering rack down or moved other components but I did not drop the subframe or lift the engine.
Sorry I don't remember exactly how I did it but it was repaired.
bob gauff
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