OK, so next project coming up. My driver's side no longer locking. I posted something along these lines before, got answer(s) and have read a lot of threads. All good stuff. Just wanted a final blessing from the friends here on the forum before I go ahead and order a (used) lock actuator on Ebay (plenty no more than $70).

As a reminder: driver's door doesn't lock, neither remote or manually, nor does knob want to go down (under finger pressure). All other doors worked normally with remote. The central lock/unlock on dash does no longer work either. From answers and reading, seems pretty clear I need a new actuator. No (real) biggie. But... it seemed like I might be facing some electronic glitch if I replaced the entire unit as opposed to the "actuator" itself, i.e. which ever electronic "module" will not recognize the replaced unit and might not function without re-programming. Is this confirmed? I have no problem trying to replace the actuator itself, trying to replace original unit - if that needs to be done as I read somewhere. Would prefer just to replace the entire unit though. I guess one way or the other I have no other choice than to purchase the unit anyway (even though I saw a pair of apparently compatible actuators for $25...)

Thanks!

 

The actuator has no program. It is a royal PITA to get it out or in, though . Good luck.

 

Thanks for the prompt response. I guess it's the replacement of that electronic door "module" itself that presents issues, not the lock actuator. Good stuff. As the the PITA, yep, I'm prepared for that..... saw a YouTube video on an XK8 and I was already sweating just looking at it, even though the "advanced warning" is better than me going blind. I recently replaced a windor reglator on a "simple" small car (Chrysler) and that was enough for me to already say "never again"... but here we go, I need now to get behind the door panel of an XJ8....

 

The door module controls the lock both remotely and by use of the key. Any code set by a failed module will not show up on a standard reader. Before buying parts I would suggest that you either find one of your new forum friends locally with an AutoEnginuity code reader or pay an indy or dealer to read the body and security codes.

 

Test point, thanks. So I guess I'm understanding correctly that there's an electronic "module" and a "lock / actuator", two separate units. As far as my diagnotic went with all the reading, it's my actuator that is shot, not (necessarily) my module. Am I correct so far? If so, are you saying that I should still try to read an error code from another (more sophisticated) reader? I was hoping that just changing the actuator would not cause an issue with the module, but I did come across conflicting messages on the forum. Any futher advice?

Thanks all

 

The driver door module activates the actuator and is CANetwork connected to the ECM. Engine swaps have identified that without a matching driver door module the thing is never going to start. I hope that your problem is a simple loose connection but if you can get a BODY code readout for free or at low cost you would have more confidence in starting the parts replacement process.

Your choice depending on the cost and labor of installing the actuator.

 

Thanks for all the input.

 

I have been having a problem with a locking / unlocking issue also. You may want to glance at that thread for a little info tho our problems seem different.

Plus a trusted Jaguar mechanic told me that some years might have a "programable" lock system that can allow some variation on what locks/unlocks what.