So, the reason for this is that this part (LNC3695AC) is no longer available except used and your taking a chance with a used one which is twice as much as making this using a new braid. These go bad, I believe from the deterioration of the metal conduction. The symptoms are you may or may not be able to unlock your Jag, then when you are in and attempt to start it, it's completely dead, no parlor or dash lights or key in the cylinder indicator. It took me awhile to figure this out as it happened inconsistently. Initially I searched engine/firewall ground and fuses to no avail and after about 10 minutes the parlor lights came on and it started. After about the 3rd episode I opened the trunk and searched, checking the mega fuses, trunk lid wire bundle and then I grabbed the battery ground lanyard and the lights came on. I milked this for a couple more months (work was busy) compressing the braid each episode and it worked every time. I then began looking for a new one to no avail and decided upon rebuilding it using the OEM ends for (2) reasons. One...no one makes one with different ends like Jag that are compatible. Two....the ends on the ones I'm showing for this work don't even begin to fit and they'd look like hack garbage anyway.

Now, when I opened the OEM ends and removed the braids, I had no corrosion at all and they were exceptionally clean...if yours aren't, clean them spotlessly, no excuses. The pictures explain most everything and if you have mechanical skill and tools, this is easy, just a bit time consuming, maybe and hour or two. If your not and don't know if you have the tools, this is designed to give you some guidance to see if you want to give it a go.
The main concern is preventing damage to the ends and reapplying them. If you bend the crimps too far out, you can stress crease the joint and it could break when attempting to re-crimp them. By doing the minimum, you reduce that risk.

Do not work on your ground like it is in the pictures, I decided to make this after making mine and testing it for a number of months. I am simply showing you the process and tools I used. I am telling you, not recommending, you remove the strap from the battery and car and work on a bench or solid surface like a concrete floor. This whole procedure is done off the car then placed back.

 

 

Do you think there’s just as many strands of wire from original vs B9G?

 

Highhorse,

Well done! I like the fact that your method preserves the original battery terminal with its 10 mm nut so the same wrench works on both the negative and positive terminals Most of the commercially-available battery ground straps come with the more conventional old-style battery terminal with a 1/2" nut, meaning two wrenches are required to change the battery.

According to summitracing.com, the Standard Motor Products B12G engine ground strap is equivalent to 4 gauge wire. The SMP B14 battery ground strap is equivalent to 2 gauge wire, so it would be another good option. You could just cut off the existing cable connector and use Highhorse's method to re-use the original battery terminal.

Standard Motor Products B14 Battery Ground Strap 2 Gauge

The Dorman 90701 ground strap is equivalent to 0 gauge, but no length is given and it appears to be backordered:

Dorman 90701 Ground Strap 0 Gauge

Thanks again for the good idea, Highhorse!

Cheers,

Don

 

I'll wait for your post on the counting... ...I actually ordered (4) sizes and the B12G was the one that fit and sized up side by side, so I used it. The issue with these is they are flat pressed and I tried to flare the braid into a round piece like the OEM and be able to form it to fit, but it wouldn't do it.

 

Does this mean possibly another How To Sticky?

 

Done.

 

You can also use a ground strap out of an x300, mine is marked with pn "DBC 11874". These are a much beefier setup, actual copper 1/0 insulated cable vs the exposed braid style in the x308.