have an x308 3.2 97 Sport,
It has sat unused for a year or so but has been started a couple of times in that period,

I put a fully charged battery in it and it cranks fine but won’t fire,
I checked the shreader valve for fuel pressure and I have none,
I can’t hear the pump running in the boot with ignition on so I removed the white plug from top of tank to check voltage,
I’m only getting 0.5v with ignition turned on so I presume I should have 13v or so at this plug?

I am getting supply voltage at the fuel pump relay connections and I swapped the relay also to see if that helped but no joy,

Anyone got any ideas ?

Thanks
Malky

 

At the fuel plug there is no voltage when key is on not engine running. Excluding pressure priming when key is turned on. Check voltages on fuel pump relay coil side. Is there voltage on coil side when engine is cranking?

 

Check fuel pump relay if it's working fine . Then the fuel pump is gone . Get denso 950-0172 fuel pump change filter too .

 

Fuel pump is likely seized, which is quite common when an older vehicle is unused for an extended period.

Use the search function to see threads discussing how to replace the X308 fuel pump.

 

Thanks for the replies,
I put a jumper between 3 to 5 on the relay socket and I now have power to the white plug so I assume as I can’t hear the pump run then it’s probably gone?

car has only done 42k miles

 

Yes, your assumption is correct. Replace the fuel pump.

 

I managed to remove the tank enough to get the pump out without fully removing it from the car,
took about 30 to 40 minutes

 

I've worked in automation for close to 40 years. This is now how I would have approached this problem. You first want to eliminate all possibilities before replacing any parts unless you embrace the (Shotgun) approach.
Some people just like to throw money and parts at a problem until they get lucky. This rarely solves a problem long term.
You now have a new fuel pump but it doesn't run. If you fear that the pump is defective, you could apply 12vdc directly to pump circuit to test. This may be the same test you trying across the relay on the old pump.
If you have a 12 volt tester. Try testing your control voltage across the relay. When the key is switched on, you should have 12 vdc across the relay control leads. I would test from chassis ground first.
You should see 12vdc. across the wires KN and WK. Now put you ground clip of the KN location on the relay. You may need to push a pin or needle into the socket to access this point with a clip on the relay socket.
You should see 12 vdc. If you don't see voltage, that's your problem.
It would be the ground side of the relay control.(WK). Your relay has four wires. NY is to the 12v battery source. RY goes to fuel pump 1. This is the circuit that runs or powers the pump.
The control side of the relay has KN from the ECM (this is the command for the relay to fire) and WK which is the common or ground side of the control circuit. WK goes to the Fuel pump control module. If you have a Digital volt meter. You can test this circuit using a continuity test. Set the meter to test Ohms or continuity. The continuity test will beep when the circuit is complete. I apologize if you are already familiar with this. I'm making no assumptions. When you look at the print that Parker 2 was kind enough to supply. You will see fuel pump 1 in the upper left hand corner of the print. Fuel pump 2 in down on the bottom of the print. Now note that these two relays share three contact point wire identities.
The only two that differ, go directly to the fuel pumps to supple 12 volts. Now note that WK goes to the FPCM (fuel pump control module). We know that pump 2 runs because when you tested the power side of the circuit.
We don't know if pump 2 works after 4000 rpm. So we still do not know if wire WK from the FPCM is good. You could do a continuity test between pump relay 1 and pump relay 2 with the key off. Let's see if you have the common
circuit on wire WK is intact. You see on the print that these two wires go directly to the same point on the FPCM. If this tests good. There is a good chance that this circuit is fine and the problem lies in the FPCM. Which also
means that pump 2 would not start after 4000 rpm. I'm guess you problem is with the FPCM. Good luck with this when you get better.

 

From memory and remember the pump only comes on for a short while to prime the system then stops and waits for you to crank the engine.
so the best way is to bridge or bypass the relay
1 & 2 respectively 86 & 85 on the plug base are the coil of the relay controlled bt the ignition system and control module
and 3 & 5 respectively 30 & 87 on the plug base are the 12 supply and switches to the pump.
so if you have 12 v on 30 and bridge it to 87 then have 12v at the pump connection plug, then the circuit to is is ok
I would then plug the new pump in and try again you should hear the pump running for a short period
all good put it back together and drop some fuel in
if you managed to disconnect the quick release connections to the tank under the floor I give you 11 out of 10 as I could not get my hands in there.
once back together and fuel is in then bridge the relay again 30 & 87 check the valve for pressure if ok at this stage I would fire her up, leave it bridged
2nd step is you have to find why the relay is not activating so test the relay for a click sound by connecting 2 & 5 to + and -
if ok
then we have to look at why it is not receiving the signal from the ignition start sequence.
I have the 98 xj8 it has only 1 pump in the tank so in the boot, there is no relay 2 for the 2nd pump.
hope the basics help
if not let me know
regards Dutchy

 

I would like to thank you all for your advice helping fault find whether my pump had failed,
I removed the pump after confirming power at the white plug on top of the tank so I removed the fuel pump and bench tested it and as expected it was knackered.

I ordered a new pump and all fitted and car now running perfect 😀

Only thing is I now have a stabability control warning on the dash 🙈

Now to find what’s wrong with that

thanks again
Malky

 

Was this was done without pulling the pipes underneath?

 

Yes it was

 

Does the fault message cycle between "ABS failure" and "Stability control failure"? In most cases, these faults are caused by deteriorated solders on the PC board of the ABS control unit. The mentioned solders are for the power supply to the ABS pump. The solution is to resolder the two points - search the forum and you will find good write-ups on this fix.

 

Thats exactly what it is doing,
abs light also staying on,
thanks for that I will check it out 👍

 

Hi, i'm just about to change my pump, you said earlier that you didn't disconnect any pipes from underneath. Looking at your pictures I can see you removed the filler cap, I need to replace the fuel filter, so if I remove that I could drain the tank - me thinks. Is it just undo straps and slide out at an angle far enough to work on tank.

thanks jagger98