Hi all,

Tried searching the posts on here, but cannot find a post specific to my issue (no doubt there is one).

Originally experienced the common issue of the boot lid not opening via any electronic means. I found a broken wire in the boot hinge area. Repaired this and got the interior dash button as well as the fob to release the boot lid.

But, the growler button on the boot lid itself is still not working. I tried to trace the wires and could not see any obvious breaks. Does this switch have any fuses that I need to check or is the switch itself faulty?

TIA.

 

The switch on the boot lid does not have any separate fuse. Its black wire goes to a grounding point and its red/green wire goes to the Security & Locking Control Module. The module opens the boot either based on the signal received from the fob or the signal received from the push-switch. It is possible that the switch is faulty but I would check the two mentioned wires again for any not so easy to spot breakage, i.e. a case when the wire insulation looks intact but the wire may be broken inside. Go along the wires again, twist them with you fingers and look for any loose spot, a spot where the wire is much easier to bend.

 

Saw this as I was about to start creating a post on my recent repair to the "growler" button as well as the broken wires in the loom issue.

Assuming your loom wiring is OK (I found 3 breaks in mine, with several on their way out, although the only fault was intermittent trunk light operation), then the issue likely points to the microswitch that the growler button operates on. You can test it by pulling off the trunk liner and looking for a green 2 wire connector. The switch is a momentary operation type, so if you push and hold the button with a volt meter set to Ohms across the pins you should see a full short.

I found mine was bad and sourced a replacement from Digi Key. $18 Canadian delivered. Part and order detail below.

To mount, the original switch was mounted with 2 rivets. This part can't use the rivet points, but I attached it using a machine screw thru the switch into the same mointing location (To access, the Chrome fascia piece needs to come off - held on by 4 studs that are easy to access once the trunk liner is removed (I think 8mm??)

Switch. Modified mount to use thru hole and screwed into Chrome Fascia piece

Digi Key Order Detail

 

And here is the defective switch post removal.

The Omron has a locater pin and opening for a mounting screw that line up with the rivet points making it an easy install.

Operation is simple - pushing the growler operates the plunger on the switch


Old switch. Cut harness and spiced new one in its place to retain the connector. (wiring is 2 wire, there are shadows in this)