good evening everybody! i have just completed replacing 4 exhaust valves, 10 head bolts, repaired a hole in my intake manifold, replaced all the chains, tensioners, and guides on my 1998 xj8. Now my problem is getting it started!!!! It turns over nicely but wont start. So I did a scan with my obd2. What I got was a code P1336.which I believe is the crank/cam timing sensors are out of synch. So my first step was to check to make sure they were plugged in. They are. My question is, Where to go from here? Yes, I did use the crank timing lock and cam locks (2) when I did the chains. ANY IDEAS???? thanks,johnny screwdriver

 

Does that engine have VVT? If so, it might be an area to review.

In the meantime, plug "P1336" or "VVT" into the search box at the top of the page and see what you get.

 

To be more specific for plumsauces good suggestion, did you use some method to assure te vvts wer in the right orientation when you locked it all down?

 

Thanks for your reply Ross. I asked that very question during the process of replacing the chains ect. I was told that since I had removed the vvt units from the cams that there would be no oil pressure in the vvt thereby they would be in the full retarded position and that there was nothing more to be concerned about and to proceed with the installation as per jts. Was I misled ? thanks john.

 

AJ26 or AJ27????

AJ26 only has a CMPS on the 'B'bank

AJ27 has CMPS on both

 

To motorcarman, It's an aj26. Thanks, john

 

I am sure that motorcarman can provide much better insight than me, and my experience with vvts is only on an Aj27, but the procedure I read in the manual that does this is:
"5.Install the camshaft sprocket. Install the chain tensioner tool 303-532 to the sprocket holes. Apply force to the tool in an anti-clockwise direction to tension the chain on its drive side. Whilst applying the opposing force to the sprocket and chain, tighten the sprocket securing bolt to 115 - 125 Nm . Remove the chain tensioning tool. "

There are a bunch of seemingly smart guys on here that argue this step, but see where it says to "apply force in the anti-clockwise....." ? That pulls the vvt to home. Now, if you removed the vvt from the intake cam (I see now why you did that!) then you must also pull the primary slack up before setting the vvt assy position to the intake cam. That is a different process that involves chain wedges and so on, but is in the manual.
Notice in the archives that problems such as yours seem to occur when people report they had been told getting the vvt home was not important. At least thats how it seems to me.

Now, not to be insulting (I happen to know someone who almost made this mistake, Guess who) are you absolutely sure you have the correct cams in the heads?

 

Ross, thanks for your reply! I made sure the cams are right. I now have my cat up and running!!! Things are good. Runs real well except at idle. Ran a scan and at first it coded a misfire in #4 and I was going to address the issue but could not figure out where #4 is according to the obd2. So I decided to take it out and run it to see if it would clear up. After a nice drive,on the freeway, I went back to the shop and ran another scan. The misfire code had gone away but the car idles very rough. Almost like a bad vacuum leak. But still was showing no codes. Any suggestions?
John

 

Oh by the way! the original problem with the P1336 code was cured by cleaning the cam sensor plug!!! Thanks everbody.

 

Glad you got it. The archiives will show pictures, but OBD numbering is:
a1 to a4 = 1 to 4:
B1 to B4 = 5 to 8

BTW! Are you saying the cam position sensor caused a no start????

 

Hi Ross! Thanks again for the useful intel! All I can say is after I CLEANED the cam sensor plug I turned the engine over with the throttle wide open till it struggled to life. It was a hard start but she caught and cleared up in 20 to 30 sec. This car has not been run in a year and a half!!!! I've driven the car for 2 days to burn the old gas out, filled it up with some good 92 and 6 oz. of Lucas to see if this rough idle will improve. I just ran a scan after 95 mi. of driving and still get a #4 cyl. misfire code with no freeze frames. I'm thinking coil or injector. I'm also going to change fuel filter. wud-da-ya-tink? john

 

Well, it sure doesn't sound like a waste of money to get the filter. I would say the misfire is almost surely what yoiu mwntioned EXCEPT, I am always worried when I have been that deep in an engine!

 

haven't had a chance to get to it today. But I will keep you posted. I hear what you're saying about that deep engine stuff!! Makes me nervious as hell!!

 

something about cats having nine lives comes to mind

 

Hey Plumsauce,!!! nice to hear from you again! Thanks for the read. Now let me bring everyone up to date on the latest AWWW SHIP!!!! Took my "favorite" feline to the shop, changed the fuel filter, swapped coils on #3 and #4, and cleaned the injector plug on #4. To NO AVAIL!! My obd is still giving me a p0304 (misfire on #4) a p1316(misfire rate exceeds emissions) and a p1111(system pass) but gave up on the p-code for B-bank running lean. the only freeze frame data is on the p-0304 code and reads as fuel sys1--cl / fuel sys2--cl / calc load (%)--20.78 / etc(f)--190 / stft b1 (%) -2.34 / ltft b1 (%) -12.50 / stftb2 (%) 0.78 / ltft b2 (%) 14.84 / engine rpm 1077 / veh. speed 11mph. Then of all things, the car spit out a gearbox fault on the way home! HHHHHEEEEELLLLPPPPPP!!!!!!! lovin every minute of it, john

 

which exhaust valves were changed? #4 maybe?

compression test?

valve clearances, are they known to be good?

 

Mr. plumsauce. Good questions. Yes, #4 did get new exhaust valves as well as #1. I did not think of valve clearences.( assumed valvestem height was taken care of at the machine shop------wrong???) I will be sure to check comp. tomorrow. Is adjustment covered in jtis? Do you know a better, easier way? thanks john

 

Well, try the compression test first because if it is good on that bank, you can maybe ignore valve clearance for now. Same reason you are doing the compression test on one bank only.

You could ask the machineshop what was done with respect to head setup. Let them know the problems you are seeing, and they may just say "now that you mention it ..."

Valve stem height is related to, but not the same as setting valve clearances.

Valve clearance procedures *may* be covered in JTIS.

If the car is running well with no signs of impending doom, then you might elect to drive it until that old gas is flushed.

Check fuel rail pressures again. Maybe the fuel filter has picked up more gunk from sitting so long.

Try some gasoline antifreeze to pick up any water that might be in the lines from condensation.

You swapped the coils, but how are the plugs?

 

Plumsauce, I think we are on the same page with respect to the old gas ect. I have already driven the old gas out, refilled with 92 oct, added 6 oz. of lucas fuel treatment, changed the fuel filter, installed new plugs ( .047 gap ). I have since put about 75 mi. on the car. Not much has changed. I have not run another fuel rail psi but will do so when I check comp. will advise! thanks again, john

 

Hi johnny screwdriver
2001 XJ8 valves clearance (cold) are:
intake 0.18 - 0.22mm and exhaust 0.23 - 0.27mm
in alldatadiy.
Gives shop time standard 8 hrs including R&I valve (cam) covers.
Jim Lombardi