XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

P1722 , but no tranny shops gonna get all my money!

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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 04:35 PM
  #61  
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This is all great info peeps. I am getting ready to tackle this tranny rebuild myself after getting a 3k quote at the shop. Research,research, research!!!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 09:22 AM
  #62  
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Glad to hear that. I thought that price was out of line. Where in Ga are you?
RJ__________________
97Xk8 Conv 85K mi
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 11:23 AM
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I'm in Rome, GA. Just picked the car up and he noted on the report that it was low on fluid....guess what I'm going to do first. I'll keep posted.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Sparky72
I'm in Rome, GA. Just picked the car up and he noted on the report that it was low on fluid....guess what I'm going to do first. I'll keep posted.
I had the same situation, added fluid and it helped for a while.

It finally wouldn't go in reverse, it got a lot worse too driving, could only use 3rd gear.

I ended up replacing it with a used lower mileage trans I found online. ($1450 shipped 52,000 miles)

Been ok since.
 

Last edited by ant17; Jul 24, 2012 at 06:53 AM.
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 06:53 PM
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So much for that idea. Added less than half pint of fluid and it was full. When I put it in reverse it works fine but when I go to drive it turns about one rotation and stops. I give it gas and it goes to limp. That is with it on the jacks. No load at all. Guess ill be pulling her out now....��
 
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Old Jul 25, 2012 | 09:52 PM
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In your parts list and pricing I was surprised to see that you havent listed a new filter for the trannie. For other members the ZF site recommends changing the filter and oil at (I think from memory) at 60k and then every 30k thereafter. They also recommend replacing oil pipes but idid a double flush with a gearbox oil flush after draining old oil it before replacing filter and was amazed how relatively clean the oil from second flush was. DO NOT run with flush for too long once up to correct temp. I've now done 10k with new oil+filter and the oil looks as clean as the day it went in. Between the 2 oil flushes i flushed the 3 valve body Oil pipes with white spirit but i removed them to do this and then blew compressed air through them. I also after disconnection, flushed the trannie oil pipes and oil cooler radiator with white spirit between the two oil flushes and gave it a good long compressed air flush starting with low pressure but I didn't go too highon pressure. I just did it until I could no longer smell white spirit. Took quite a while. Got a lot of slime out with white spirit.
 

Last edited by RAS-XJ8; Jul 25, 2012 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Posted accidentally too early
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Old Jul 25, 2012 | 10:18 PM
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Did you have the car running and the oil up to correct temp when you topped up trannie oil?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 04:24 PM
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I did have it running but don't think it was up to temp. I learned about that after the fact but very good to know prior to the reinstall of the rebuild.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 04:58 PM
  #69  
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So I have read all four pages on this magnificently informative post as I have a 2001 XJ-8 with 92,000 miles. The tranny is silky smooth. Is there a way or two to get ahead of this problem -- or at least monitor it -- before I am stuck -- or worse, the wife -- on a dark road one night? (Other than remove the box and replace the A drum protectively?)

All suggestions welcome.

Thank you
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 06:10 PM
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Hi Len, Welcome to the Jaguar Forum.
Our 2001 XJ8 mileage was 91826 when the transmission developed the dreaded A disk (forward disk) issue. The ZF authorized Transmission shop replaced the freewheel, valve body main pressure regulator, valve body other plate, spag, and forward drum.

They also did a rebuild of the existing torque converter.

All this transmission work done almost 2 years ago (Sept 2010).

The Timing Chain Tensioners failed just over 2 years ago (July 2010). We replaced both the Secondary and Primary Tensioners.

If I had been warned about these 2 issues before they happened, I would have had the work done before our extended warranty ran out.

We were on the interstate thruway when the tensioners put the in engine in limp mode (restricted performance) - the whole left bank (4 cylinders stopped working).

We were lucky that we did not have any engine bent valves or broken pistions from this event. Many others have had to get a replacement engine.

Jim Lombardi
 
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 09:30 PM
  #71  
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Hi Len,

I too had the timing issue. It was at 166k and fortunately I was close to family in TN and had no major engine damage. I was able to buy the complete timing kit and rent the tools on eBay and perform the work along with my brother in law. I am now in the process of rebuilding the tranny at 180k(not the original transmission from what I can tell)...anyway, I wish you the best and if you do get the timing work done, be sure to get the upgraded metal tensioners...
 
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 07:20 AM
  #72  
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Thanks, Jim and Sparky,

I have redone both sets of tensioners with the sturdier replacements (from Christophers who resells the ones made in Japan) Did the water pump while we were at it.

Everything is working fine but I worry about all the tranny horror stories. Besides a huge preemptive strike with the A drum, what might I consider to see if there are problems?

I read that one thing to do is driop the pan and see if there is any debris or metal in the fluid. Can you actually see any wear on A drum if you do that?

If you are in the far, should you go ahead and replace the drum anyway? Does Eriksson or anyone else sell a kit for this fix?

Thanks,

Len
 
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 09:02 PM
  #73  
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Len,

About a year and a half ago I dropped the pan on mine and found that a magnet had somehow gotten stuck to the rail that holds the solenoids and it(the magnet) was all chewed up on the edges. In turn, some of the solenoids were shorting out with debris all over them. I cleaned everything really good and replaced the filter. It worked great til recently when I started having problems again (slightly different this time). I am currently about half way into the build and haven't found anything more than some sludge and a few hot spots.
Also, you have to remove the tranny to get to that drum. Hopefully that is helpful.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 04:49 AM
  #74  
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Hi
I would bite the bullet. It is just a matter of time before the drum failure will happen.
See forum member obriendob thread on his transmission rebuild in New Jersey for $2600 (posts #7 thru 10):

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rebuild-69806/

Look at this other forum thread "Off the road again". It gives information on updated valve body parts. View posts #14 thru #17:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...d-again-61537/

Also take a look at this thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ssembly-54866/

Jim Lombardi
 

Last edited by jimlombardi; Aug 1, 2012 at 04:58 AM.
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Old Aug 2, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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Invaluable, Jim. Many thanks. I had read some but not all of these threads and posts. Great resources contained therein.

Hope all is well with your Jag now. It is amazing what we do to drive these babies.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2023 | 09:39 AM
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x
 

Last edited by ross1; Aug 30, 2023 at 12:24 PM.
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